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Politely... I think you should have looked at this in a different way. I'm concerned that you've not diagnosed a poor running condition and then mod'ed the ECU to try and get you more power. I might suggest as an option firstly getting the stage1 reversed. Then get a full code scan done...the CANBUS network will tell you if there is an issue. However, basic things to look first: Plugs - replace with good quality Iridium plugs Airfilter- make sure it's good. Oil change/filter - make sure it's changed and you are running with good (pref OEM quality oil - either 5W30 or 0W30 504 grade oil) If the car still keep sluggish, then it's worth doing a compression test on the cylinders to see if you have a problem there. Have you checked to make sure you don't have crankcase pressure issues (usually a sign of cylinder head gasket going south...) Also listen for issues...are you getting noise from the whole engine or just one cylinder? You might also have a timing issue. Has the timing gone out of specification? At that engine age, you should be due a cambelt change. Does your engine have ACT on it? If so, is the lack of power caused by this system not working as it should do? All VAG engines if they are well maintained go on for many many years. Please have another look at this problem if possible.

Probably this, similarly font -confused: F0A = no special purpose vehicle

Pretty sure BWB is meant to be 8WB, front fogs. Can't remember the other, and can't look properly just now.

I’m waiting for an estate … with 800v batteries.

Another SUV style car, stupid for the city. Whoever starts making normal looking small EVs will make a killing. This could have been an electric Fabia with much wider appeal IMHO. The e-UP had long waits for new cars when VW closed the order book (has long waits as still being made to fulfil the order book AFAIK) so the demand is there. Cities are imposing ULEZ / ZEZ across europe so a small EV city car will be in big demand and skoda come up with this. The Dacia Spring will kick this one's butt on price alone.

Future of car mods?

As title. More in link https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/electric-mobility-entry-level-bev-will-be-skoda-epiq/?utm_source=x

Heko all the way...........they fit right and work well

I can give an idea what Skoda used to do or say they did, and what things are now. ? What engine is it. Oil & Filter changes every year. 9,400 miles. Air Filter, Pollen Filter when needed, Brake Fluid changed maybe every 2 years. Check, inspect, when ever, do what you think needs doing. This Green Chart is approx. More recent terms for services.

The steering whell should be properly centred when new. It can become uncentred if someone has done any work on the suspension of if the wheels are misaligned due to damage caused by kerbing or hitting a pothole.

Hard agree. The market's flooded with EV SUVs - we're in danger of being flooded with cheap city EV's from the East IMO with their low labour and build costs.

Physically or cyberattacked? If the former then why are you amazed? Its not as if other UK infrastructures have come under terrorist attack, cyber attacks for money I could understand but they are going to target those with the least defences and who can privately cave in and pay up.

We found the Kelpies fascinating and spent over an hour looking at them - with the walk to them and coffee we charged for 2 hours there on 3-phase AC.

This is what my Skoda looks like now

I would just like to register my personal disdain for most after market 'snake oil' additives. In regard to DPF regen enhancers there is a common thread that while they may actually do what they claim there could be secondary damage to the dpf, or other parts of the engine especially with overuse. Be aware that the additive which performs for the 15 minute (?) post injection regen will then be run through the engine for the whole tank and this may not be really good for long term holistic engine care. Simply follow the others recommendation to drive on to allow the process to naturally complete. It may take longer on a cold day for the dpf to reach operating regen temperature and higher speeds on a cold day can actually work against achieving dpf working temperature quickly. Your manual will probably have some suitable recommendations although I understand that not reading the manual can be a 'male pride' thing for some If you do a lot of short journeys and few longer ones then it may be useful to get a cheap Bluetooth OBCD dongle and an app on your mobile phone to monitor DPF status so you can better plan for, and meet, regen requirements.

So with me procrastinating over the seat and the foams needing some potential slicing, decided to look at the clock spring and the indicators: The idea was to swap them over so it's ready to go straight in. I've noticed that these clock springs have a useful 0 degree indicator: For the facelift one above, the window inside the clock spring has a white ribbon which aligns with the 0 degree marker to the left of it. For the pre facelift clock spring, it looks like a notch that is within the inner part of the clock spring: The white notch is to the right, with the arrow pointing at it on the upper part. It isn't there if its any number of revolutions out. The clock spring is attached with 3 screws, T15 bits: Then it's two electrical connectors, sorta chunky style ones at the bottom: Then one at the top, which has a few awkward latches: It will then come free: This is where it dawned on me that this was all a waste of time. The connectors aren't all compatible with one another, the left and right indicators having different number of pins, and the connectors locations on the clock springs themselves slightly different here and there. I've decided to give up on these indicators, as it doesn't seem worth the effort. Shame really, need to come up with another way to spruce up the existing ones. With that laid to bed, I decided to take pics of the stuff for servicing: The main bits for most of a 'C' service. Oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, and the DSG filter. For reference, I use an A, B, A, C service schedule for all the guys I look after. It keeps things simple, and most of the time means overdoing things. Some cars will have an oil and filter change in between, but in general, it's annual. I'll be doing the C service for this car primarily to zero off the time line for this car, and because 8 years of age marries up to the C service perfectly. It'll also mean just a quick look and oil change next year. I don't have shares in Mann, but it does usually end up with me always using Mann stuff. The cabin filter above is apparently some fancy type, so cost a bit more than normal or activated charcoal ones. The above was all from Autodoc, and came to £104.36, a case of scraping a few pounds compared to EuroCarParts or GSF. Now, one disadvantage of the DSG gearbox is the sheer amount of expensive oil required: So I have 7l of the stuff, plus a litre of stuff for the Haldex differential: Again, I've found myself using Mannol stuff for the last 4-5 years and I haven't found any of the cars blowing up yet, so more than happy with using the same for the DSG and Haldex. I imagine the Haldex will end up being changed every 2 years (the B service) and 4 years appears to be the expectation for the DSG. It was £12.15 for the Haldex oil, and £48.86 for the DSG oil. Also some gubbins for the Haldex: First RacingLine mod! Even if it's just some replacement fill and drain bolts. They contain a bunch of washers which is probably the reason I went for those. The pic also has washers for the DSG drain bolt, and also a pump for the Haldex oil, just the usual pump for these situations (have a few in the garage for the manual gearboxes when needed). It was £4.55 for the washers, £6.69 for the pump and £29.99 for the RacingLine bolts. I forgot to take pictures of the Haldex o-rings as well. Specifically https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/o-ring-seals-for-gen-5-haldex-pumps/ and https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/large-rear-o-ring-for-vw-audi-seat-and-skoda-n90443301/ which came to £10.14 with delivery. Here's a bag of nuts: This is for the modules under the seats, as I vacuumed one by accident over the previous weekend being too earnest. Usually take the opportunity to replace things with stainless when appropriate, such as this. £3.32 from eBay. Some random tools as well: Some picks, as I don't have any, and when I used to service the wife's SEAT Ibiza, I usually always had to get out some sort of screwdrive for the o-rings for the filters and whatnot. £6.95 from eBay. Another pick: This one for trim pieces, which seems to be mentioned quite a bit in the workshop manuals, £4.99, again from eBay. These also arrived today: New connector cover to replace the broken one, with one spare just in case. So quite a bit, and I'll probably miscalculate the total knowing my luck. I haven't included engine oil, brake fluid, or coolant, primarily because I have that stuff already. Maintenance: £1678.25 (+£183.38) Upgrades: £711.10 (+£29.99) Miscellaneous: £603.58 (+£18.63)

Hi everyone - just taken delivery of a new Superb Hatchback 2 litre TSI DSG 2wheel drive standard suspension from a Skoda dealer. Front shock absorber transport blocks not removed prior to collection. This came to light as I experienced a number of instances when travelling on the open road even a minor road imperfection generated a huge thump through the whole car. Sensing that something was not right I researched BRISKODA and found a possible cause relating to the transport blocks on the front shock absorbers not having been removed as part of the PDI exercise. Contacted the dealer and they confirmed this might well be the cause I would need to have the car booked in to my local Skoda dealer to have this checked over. I have asked to see a copy of the PDI inspection report as I need the assurance that the PDI was carried out and that there are no other outstanding matters which need attention. In the meantime, I checked for the transport blocks myself and found the buffers still in place. I have now removed these (2 buffers each side) and the car in transformed. Thanks guys for the heads up. It's simply crazy why this issue is still coming up year after year after year!

If it's the same stuff as on the lower sill area then it will be the factory under seal I know that the damage on yours isn't on the sills but when i started having a closer look at my sills i found that where the factory under seal must have been slightly damaged that water had got between the sill and under seal so that you could pull quite big chunks of it off. These areas looked solid but were rusting away unseen if that makes sence I'm guessing for you make sure that ALL the loose under seal is removed and then under seal it although i ended up painting my lower sill areas because i like to see what's going on I've had a tyre place wanting to jack my range rover classic up under the sill which would have ended very badly if i hadn't been there to stop them.

Youtube video of well known, to many of us interested in Electric vehicles what they actually cost, ie not the RRP, and therefore the true depreciation is much smaller than the click bate press would have believed. Sorry about his sponsor taking a minute or so despite them being quite interesting to many EV users..........

Just got my first Skoda a few months ago after my RX8 sadly died (and stranded me 100 miles from home- on Christmas 🤦‍♀️) - 2017 superb with 198k on it. i didn’t bat an eyelid as before the RX I’ve pretty much always run Peugeots with diesel lumps… therefore I consider an oil and filter change a full service, but do it every 6k religiously, routinely had 250 to 300k no hassle, got one to just under the half million mark. And then the steering rack went engine still kosher 😂 I’m very glad to see that I can expect similar with this beast!! Poor thing desperately needs a full drain and fresh fill of oil… dipped it once and the end of the stick was covered in pure evil 🫣😳 I’m shouldn’t say what I paid for it. As you’ll hate me😂 pure serendipity my brother had a colleague who’d pranged this slightly and then not sorted it or touched it in months… and his lady had enough of it sat there so he needed it gone… got it for a monkey and a case of cheap red wine. Put a day or two labour and about £700 in parts into it and it’s golden. Never had a bargain like it in my life!

The year started quite well for me with preparation for a loose goal of running 10km in hour or even 12km in 70 minutes around the time of 70th birthday in late January. Then the metaphorical wheels fell off with a small medical intervention, a knee damaging fall while walking my daughter's somewhat excitable and sturdy dog, increased casual paid work combined with a period of intense internal house painting in preparation for the installation of new carpets. Oh, and throw in a bad back, the first in over 25 years and I am going to blame that on the lack of running. So today I laced up for the first time in about eight weeks and did a slow and steady 4 km in abnormally high temps for this time of year. Everything hurts! But it's a start and we will see how it goes from here.

email... from Škoda UK Dear James Thank you for contacting Škoda UK, it was a pleasure speaking to you today. Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the cambelt interval changes on your vehicle. There is no service interval at all for the cambelt on your vehicle, with 'fitted for life' items that can be considered as 15 years or 180,000 miles. Please find attached the service history for the vehicle as requested. The information on the certificate is provided by our network of Approved Škoda Retailers and is correct to the best of our knowledge. Thank you for contacting Škoda UK. Kind regards

On the Superb, there was a changlog given on the MIB3 when the update was offered. From memory there were three buttons, update now, cancel & release notes but I didn't find a way to get these back or find them online

Welcome to the forum. Had the car been one that was part of the Recall for Lack of Torque so given the Software Update previously.? ? Had the car / engine had the Cam Belt replaced before you got it? Maybe not required, but if done easily messed up. ? Is it a 1.5 TSI ACT, and is it a DSG rather than a manual? If a DSG what gear was it in when the Dyno runs were being done? ??? What was the car running & what is it running now remapped. Unleaded 95 ron, or Super Unleaded 97,98,99, 100 or 100+?

Might, or could well tell you. Its not the Canbus network that detects and records fault codes, it is the individual controllers which can be interrogated by a fault code reader plugged into the OBDII port communicating with them via the Canbus network.

You mean as in the B word.

Unfortunate typo. BIG country. Doesn't get the sense from maps, but it's huge when looking at driving distances.

Could not agree more with most of that, these fat cat elites drive around in their hugely overpowered ICE cars spewing out way more pollution than you and I ever do in our smaller diesels. There are plenty of luxury less polluting cars that they could elect to use but wont.

I take the pragmatic view. If you listened to every single warning/issue out there about anything you would never get out of bed in the morning (although I have no doubt there are some sort of warnings about staying in bed lol) In the OPs case a 2023 car will still have some manufacturers warranty left and as suggested above just do the relevant maintenance otherwise just drive & enjoy

Wow huge amount of work there! I’ll just mention that the Haldex fill screw has a very small hex socket that is made of cheese. I wasn’t quite clear from the above whether you have one, but I’d get a new fill hole bolt before changing the Haldex fluid. It will be interesting to see how much gunge there is on the Haldex filter and in the oil. It was horrendous the first time, better but still fairly grotty the second time. Maybe it will be less grotty this time if the wear has settled down. Hopefully we’ll see.

Check the gearbox has been serviced properly at the correct time and you should be fine. The chart I've attached is a mileage chart, but assume 10,000 miles/12 months. So if you need servicing at 40K miles, I'd get it done at 4 years, even if you haven't done 40K miles. (I think there's a service chart that reflects this.) There have been problems with DSG gearboxes in the past, but they seemed to have been sorted more recently, and certainly a 2023 vehicle should be DSG gremlin-free. Look out for jerky gear changes from cold, which can indicate problems, as it should change gear well in all temperatures. My Octavia is my first DSG car, and the DQ381 box it uses has been fine. I do drive it sympathetically, and I'm aware that the Mechatronic unit may fail at some point, but day to day living with a DSG car has been a delight. Be aware that different implementations of DSG cars have different characteristics. For example, my car needs to be put into neutral when stationary, or it "pulls" with the clutch at the biting point, not fully disengaged. I've noticed that if I put it in neutral then back in gear when stationary, I can let it sit in "Drive" mode without it pulling. It promptly engages the clutch without allowing the car to roll back when I release the brake to move off. (I have an old-fashioned lever type handbrake.) Other vehicles have no issue with sitting on the brake at junctions, so be aware of how the gearbox works when you drive it, so you can reduce the risk of premature wear. For all the hassle-free driving benefits of DSG, there is a learning curve to getting the best from them, especially as changing gearbox mode can also change other characteristics of your car. Good luck!

EV charging @ Falkirk Football Stadium / Helix park, where the Kelpies are if wanting to go to Edinburgh via there.

From what you are telling us, you've gone and got third party mounts and average quality wheel bearings and taken the car to a third party garage. Appreciate you are trying to fix things on a budget but with VAG products, unless you really know what you are doing, using third party products and garages will bite you hard. I suggest; get some proper OEM struct top rubbers (and get the struct tops checked to make sure they aren't rusted through), get both wheel bearings done at the same time (either two front or two rear) with proper OEM bearing kits and then get a wheel alignment done.

Hello, thank you very much for your help, the headlights work great. I managed to do it only yesterday, lack of time. the vcp file didn't work, but Oddis Enginering gave me a great description.

There is a heater in the adblu tank, with a control unit. On a 4X4 version, they locate the unit under the offside rear wheel arch! Sounds a good idea! Not when water gets into it! My battery flattened at 3-01 am due to the shorting which occurred. Brilliant technician, Noel, (AA VWG recovery service) detected it, ordered a new one, (are you ready?) £300 retail. Fitted in about 20 minutes, but then testing, resetting elecronic facilities & recharging battery etc. VW used to have a reputaion for good design & engineering. Glad I took out an "All-in" service/warranty.

Hi Trev, I did have a think about this but I really don't need another big car at the moment... so I guess this Superb is still available 🙂 Cheers, Steve

Regarding mileage. I've got a 2011 2.0 TDI 170bhp DSG VW CC with 260k miles on it. Had it 8 years. Routine service and DSG service keeps her going. Things changed/fixed: Front wheel bearings, discs, pads, tyres, couple of bushes Dual Mass Fly Wheel. So nothing out of the norm for routine wear and tear and it never misses a beat. My 2017 2.0 TDI 190BHP DSG superb has 400k Km on it. Had it 3 years. Things changed fairly much the same as the VW CC, As others have mentioned. Routine servicing including DSG and they will do very large miles. I've read of some 2.0 TDIs hitting 500k miles.

There appears to be an option to change the weighting in VCDS

That means i Will have clutch and gearbox capabble of 700Nm plus, ready for the last step: forged,stroked, CNC ported, ceramic coated, big turbo, new engine. Thinking about driveshaft upgrades 500 or 1000hp from Driveshafts

Here is the pinion shaft brace which allows for 800hp-tested,and my internals are already reinforced. If you go back to my gearbox assemblly in Cacak Serbia, 10 or more Pages back you can see it

You keep mentioning 'locking' in both your post which is perhaps where your getting confused. It's unlocking the vehicle and double unlocking with the remote key. Good news is that I've fixed the issue. The problem was caused due to a break in the brown/yellow signal wire between the button and the control unit J519. The actual break was within the left side rubber tubing between door and chassis. A new strip of wire, a bit of solder, some heat shrink tubing and all is good as new. Thanks for your advice nta16. I hope this helps someone in the future with similar issues.

Mine arrived today... It does not fit. The packaging says on it for Kamiq and Scala. You can push it into the hole, but it's not deep enough to secure itself, so it will just fall out. The other issue is that as mentioned in my previous post, is the smart holder slot is upside down. In summary don't buy the one on the Kopacek store hoping it to fit an Octavia. There must be a seperate part for us, which Kopacek will probably stock when it becomes available.

Wow, brilliant deduction Watson, what are your proposals for people like me then, chop off my legs so I can get into smaller cars 🤣 My solution: just try some simple visual mods

I started a post in 2019 about the same type of noise. I had the cambelt changed , but the "rotatating noise" from bottom of engine stayed ...long story short it was the oil /vac pump situated in the sump , nothing to worry about kept the car a few years and never missed a beat. Here is the original post thread I started. hope this helps

Someone who does not have a track record for misrepresenting the facts; I have seen "80% remaining" turn into "80% worn" between the mechanic's job sheet and the job invoice.

Generally not recommended to mix all seasons and summer tyres (but lots of cars seem to have pair on one axle and pair of another on other axle). However there are some practical points: Firstly although you have missed it (others reading this might be helped), always good idea to swap the tyres front-rear around 12k -14k miles to even out the wear, avoids problem of 2 worn tyres needing replacement at different date Secondly, the guidance about putting the better tyres on rear doesn't make lot of difference if got at least 4mm of tread on rear, but is bad idea if 3mm or under as back of car can swing out under heavy braking (and don't want to end up in other lane with truck bearing down on you) Thirdly, when you consider what rubbish some people use, 4 budget tyres from different brands, all with variable lowish tread depths, you are not taking risks they are. Fourthly you will soon realise that 4 premium tyres with good tread depth (even if 2 are all seasons) is far better than 4 premium tyres with under 3mm tread. Not as good as 4 of the best same tyres, but well up there.

I'm going to say nothing more on this .... Dacia will fit whatever they so choose. I said I didn't think there was much point in quoting detailed examples of wheels and tyres that Dacia are not seemingly going to fit - judging by the numerous Youtube reviews they seem to have settled on 17 and 18 inches depending on the model. I might well be wrong but it just seems that way. And I can't see much point in quoting details of wheels from a 2021 Nissan Qashqai - supplied from a company in Hanover, Germany .... we're all perfectly aware the dealers aren't going to do any pre delivery swaps and how many customers will give the slightest thought to fitting non standard, non specification, non approved, wheels and tyres on a brand new car knowing the manufacturer (or the insurer) won't take at all kindly to it ? I wish I hadn't mentioned it. I was merely saying that a video i watched showed the fitment of an unusual and expensive size of tyre which offered little choice when it came to replacing them. I was speaking prematurely and shouldn't have done ... i'm sorry.

I’ve put together a review of my Superb Estate over on YouTube. i don’t think that anything I say will be groundbreaking for people who come here, but you might enjoy it (or not 🙄). link is here should you want to take a look

Welcome to the forum. Maybe it needs to run for a short time and only a short time if there is a regen happening & if this is a 1.6 TDI CR. Is the coolant level correct and the Anti Freeze / Summer Coolant / Corrosion Inhibitor strength correct. ie the Antifreeze.