Leaderboard

I use the weights on the VIN plate of the car. It shows the weight of the Vehicle (A) and Gross Train weight (B). C and D are load spread across front and rear axles. This vehicle for example can tow 1695kg, (B minus A ) If you do the calculation for percentage you may notice that it can only legally tow about 67% of it's weight. This is becoming more common with Hybrids and Bevs for example because the extra weight of the Car actually reduces it's towing capability. So check your cars "A" figure and work out the weight based on the percentage you are happy with without going over the "B" combination of both I suspect the 1.5 will have a max of around 1500kg but if you want an 85% match your looking at 1,275kg for the Caravan when laden. You may find this useful https://towcar.info/ If you are a member of a caravan or camping Club they offer a free on-line match checker

I'm going to be in Mlada Boleslav in the next week for an Enyaq focused meeting and I am told there will be a chance to have a discussion with "Skoda management". Are there any Skoda EV related issues that I should raise?

Skoda Fabia 1.2 TSI DSG (S-A) = semi automatic. a DQ200 DSG.

"S-A" ? Torque settings for a 2015 1.2TSI is - sump plug = 30Nm, oil filter = 20Nm and sparkplugs = 22Nm

The metal strip looks like a magnet - certainly acts ;line one - to hold the torch in place in the holder.

Today I fitted my Virtual Cockpit screen protector from Innovative Paint Protection Solutions It has clearly up 95% of the marks I had on my original screen where the previous owner likeed to put their phone 😭

After a long drawn out diagnostic period (4 months) I have finally cured the slow speed front groan when turning the steering wheel, it wasn't the front springs or shocks, nor the rear springs or shocks, nor was it drop links or track rod ends etc. it turned out to be the front Anti Roll Bar bushes 🙂

Yep, mine failed at around 78,000km / 3.5yrs ... just out of warranty. Think original offer was a percentage of parts & labour from Skoda/dealer. They ended up coughing up the whole lot due to parts delays then a workshop move which meant further delays. Loan car provided the entire time (3 months from memory). I'd just ask the question as pretty sure they moved to a 5 year warranty towards the end of 2018 & it's not like they haven't seen the issue before.

I seriously hope so. I have just had another MOT issue with the rear drums/shoes on another car I own, a 12 year old Corsa. Spent well over four hours stripping down and cleaning them prior to MOT test. BUT another fail, fecking hate them. They are such a pain to balance. Discs and pads are the way to go. IMHO.

Whilst waiting for my mig welder to show up I've been fiddling with car audio... I'm still planning to drop car play into this mess, but I wanted to check the amp and sub would work so I lashed it it up with a lovely classic alpine unit on a bench. It's a TINY bit underwhelming, but you can't expect terribly much from an 8" speaker and once a windscreen goes in it's a VERY small cab space so I think this will be fine. it squeezes in here, obviously. I may actually mount it a bit higher so the top is flush with the body ridge to get a bit more seat clearance. I'm not short. This will require cutting off the studs that used to hold the weird bucket thing. I can stash them though and weld them back on if i ever need to.

Alas, it’s only wired up to work on whichever side is the passenger side. Agree it would be far more helpful if it were available on both sides.

Just spent a few hours on mine as it was a bit of a mess despite me knowing (mostly) where everything was (approximately roughly honest!) This was after clearing some junk out already. Getting there. Just about done! Note to self; NO MORE BIT SETS!

Thanks for replies - followed the suggested old threads from 2016 and 2009 - all good now. Moved the seat all way forward then all the way back, (making sure it went past the first apparent end position in both directions). Did the same for the seat height adjustment (but not the lumber support) and heard a double boing.at some point. Then adjusted for new position 1, pressed SET button, and then "1" button, got the responding boing, all good now, thanks.

Ive opened and repaired about 30 of these, there is only one magnet. Chances are the batteries are dead and need replacing, id be checking the voltage with a multimeter as if the cells are toast, it wont charge.

Its doable, I did mine which would have been 6 years old at the time, it takes a different skillset and mindset taking apart something that was never designed to come apart, it can be somewhat destructive if not thought through at every stage, plastic gives very little feel when its approaching yield point. Certainly replacing both the inner and outer grille together is the 100% safe option, now that my painted black finish has failed so spectacularly I regret not buying both, I had to replace the grille, it has been shattered in the accident, the surround was fractured but I reasoned that my repairs could be hidden by the black finish, I should have bought a new surround but the black ones were are probably still are stupidly expensive compared to the chrome ones that cost more to produce.

I am having the exact same issue, I took the car roughly 1 month ago (currently less then 1000km in it) . I purchased ACC from the shop, but from day 1 the distance set feature was not working, I am unable to set it, it always defaults to the middle selection. Starting from last week I am having the same issue on top of faulty ACC, the above mentioned assistant features are not working, everytime I start the car I have the 4-5 yellow warnings and beeps... I am going to the dealer in two days, we will see if they manage to fix it...

Going to bite MINI / BMW Dealers in the UK as far as Used cars they have in Stock and future used MINI Electrics residuals. They were already getting to be available for pretty low prices. As far as the new Built in China MINI Electrics and the Media wrongly showing the Image of them. Serves BMW / MINI right for being lazy barstewards as far as any UK Recall Actions & proper Press Releases. PS As far as the Other BMW / MINI issue and hold backs on deliveries because of a Brake Issue. I wonder if they are piling the cars into the UK and still First Registering them early of hand over to get the 22% EV First Registrations. Customers getting the New cars can do their own thinking over that. BMW / MINI UK might move their back end to get the parts in and the cars out.

@Ootohere I agree, the first video is pointless and is just effectively greenwashing the problem by giving the illusion that it is the main 12v normal car battery that all cars have which is causing the problem, rather than addressing the real issue and being honest with their customer base. A software update is also not the ideal solution that an owner wants either, for that does not resolve the issue and as we all know software is not infallible anyway, given the right sequence of events it can fail.

maybe of interest on delivery driver/firms forums?

Think the DE11VRS stands out better

Maybe no Derick,s with a vRS wanting to put that on.

Have you reset the gear linkage to take up any wear in cables? It is a simple job described in the Haynes manual and in many YouTube videos such as this

finally i have the pipe on . the problem was i was trying to fit it with two seals i did not realize that there was a small seal on the end of the pipe and was trying to fit on over the top. so i must be fool of the month.

The only accurate way to determine the kerbweight (Which you appear to be asking) is to either obtain a copy of the certificate of conformity where it will be stated or put it on a public weighbridge. Skoda quote a kerbweight range of between 1344kg and 1550kg for the 1.5 manual. An SEL with a few options will be closer to 1500kg. Max tow for the 1.5TSi manual is 1500kg.

Found this info on VCDS forum which maybe helpful for others here: Prerequisite: Vehicle must be parked on level ground and settled on its suspension Headlight Adjustment procedure: Select 55 - Xenon Range Select Basic Settings Select Basic headlamp setting Press [Go!] to activate the Basic Setting. Adjust the headlights using their manual adjusting screws as referenced against a suitable aiming target. Note: ignore this step if you are using these instructions for the DTC from a tweak. Press [Stop] Select Acknowledge basic setting Press [Go!] to activate the Basic Setting. The adjustment should now be learned. Press [Stop] Exit Basic Settings Don't forget to check/clear fault codes afterwards.

I have now purchased a VRS loving it. Thanks everyone for your help.

Welcome. @Carlston might be along and able to help.

you necessarily need the ODIS 23.0.1 version with VAS6154 as indicated in the pdf attached to the posted guide or you can use an older version of the software as well as the OBD2 hardware

That's why you have to go to a dealer or someone else who has ODIS. If the car is under warranty, they'll do it for free. Otherwise, you have to bargain for a fair price.

Put the mirror adjustment selector to the passenger side, now when you put it in reverse, it should move. You must have drivers memory seat for it to work effectively.

Welcome. Best advertise it in the Cars for sale' classifieds on this forum.. Much cheapness.

In mine (1.5TSI), the shift from first to second is usually not as smooth as changing up to the higher gears, but sometimes it is absolutely fine! It isn't as bad as yours sounds to be and I have never felt the need to speak to the dealer about it. As the mileage has increased it has improved notably but still there at 48k miles - the times it is smoother are when the engine/transmission are fully warmed up and a relatively leisurely gear change. On and off over my 45+ years of motoring I have noticed the same thing in cars including my late 70s Triumph Dolomite, 80s Mini, Ford Escort & Vauxhall Astra and 14 plate Superb. But who knows! The 'box on my Dolomite was rebuilt and a roller bearing replaced and linkages adjusted several times, all to no avail. Because of this I have assumed there is something in my driving style - perhaps my timing of clutch & gear shift actions in the lower gears which are usually a quicker shift than those to higher gears, especially around town. Lots of me blathering on, and I'm not sure it's much help... 🙄

Hi. Thanks for reply. I am able to drop the box itself using the tabs. I've done that to access the fuses and filter. But it's the whole frame needs to be dropped, hence the removal of the seven screws. Dropping the compartment alone will not give me access to the radio head unit. There is a video of the whole box and frame dropping with these screws removed, but mine does not. My gut feeling is that there is a screw behind the push release button of the glove box, which stays in place when the box is opened normally.

Thanks! I will let my mechanic check the error code soon when I go to oil change service.

@Ootoherethank you, it has been my experience that all car makers will spin things in their favour, that is never truer than when that applies to EVs as they have so many reasons to do so now. Nothing must deduct from the narrative of going electric and another is the massive fines, particularly in the UK that they face if they fail to sell their quota. As to EV sites, well I have long said that they do have a vested interest and so anything negative about EVs that they post is a kin to stabbing themselves so they will not publish negatives, it's against political and their own narratives. What is required is a site that pushes the truth about electric cars, good and bad then people will be truly informed.

@Graham Butcher you were dead right in the thread on EV fires about Smoke & Mirrors. BMW / MINI are trying to blow smoke up MINI Electric car drivers arses. 'Honesty is the best policy'. They will be pulled up on trying to spin this to suit themselves. Even EV sites can not be bothered to show a picture of the British Built models that are affected. As to dealerships or MINI / BMW UK and their info on the recall. Not fit for purpose.

No, not any more. I used to in my younger days but when I got a girlfriend, now wife, there were too many distractions 😉

Sorry I got muddled up, you’re correct milage not time interval now

Last month I replaced all four tyres on mine, 46k miles from a set of Michelin Primacy 4. The fronts slightly more worn than the rears. They were down to about 3.5mm tread left but decided to replace all as I had an unrepairable puncture near the sidewall in the right rear and with winter approaching thought a new set of boots was worth it.

Normally they do last longer, because in UK we have roundabouts, and left handed junctions are generally tighter lines than turning right. Therefore it is normal to find left front wears most and right rear wears least. So if you switch around tyres (and they are not directional like P7s), then can get good mileage. On my car (over 65k miles and 6 years old, which is about 35k miles on summer P7s, other 30k on winter tyres), Each spring the least worn goes on front left, the most worn back right and my factory P7s all still have 3.5-4mm of tread, so are comfortably heading towards 50k miles. If Op thinks replacing 2 tyres every 20k miles is better than replacing 4 every 50k miles then I disagree. .

It's a leased company vehicle so the leasing company decide when the tyres get changed. I'm not buggering about with a jack rotating the tyres. And I've never had fitters tell me new ones have to go on the back (it is generally safer though as it means you're less likely to lose the rear end in a corner).

This is the kind of nonsense you get in the media like the Express. A recall of a specific Model, Mini Cooper Electrics 2020-2024. That is cars built in the UK. What they show though in the article are 2024 cars that are built in China and that have their own possible issue. Brakes.

It’s somewhat like a semiautonomous driving system. It will steer, slow down, accelerate etc. It also has traffic assist, and when activated and stuck in traffic, it stops, starts and moves the car without input from the driver along with the traffic. I find this helpful when stuck in traffic. If you use it in town or cities, it can get confused with multiple lines on the road in places. Zig zag lines have caused the car to rapidly steer left and right 🤦🏼 which was disconcerting the first time I experienced it.

If you look at the top of this group, you will find a list of tweaks to the coding that are known to work.

......plugged in a USB-C charger 😁 Not a major mod but it may help someone! I wanted a USB-C charger for the rear ashtray that when fitted still allowed the tray to close, this one fits perfectly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BTP9GF27 I would have preferred a double USB-C but all the ones I found would have stopped the tray closing when fitted. At some point I may swap for ones of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285669357516

I have Travel Assist on mine. A pull of the lower stalk on the left of the wheel engages Adaptive Cruise Control and a then push of the button on the wheel activates Travel Assist. I can confirm that with Travel Assist fully activated the car will steer itself - hence, adapative lane assist or guidance or whatever you want to call it. It is part of Travel Assist. I find it helpful on the motorway for sure.

Here’s mine: looks totally disorganised, but I know exactly where everything is.. Unfortunately I have to share it with Mrs B’s flower arranging stuff, and a freezer and tumble dryer

Ah ok I just used 7zip to extract to card rather than windows ‘Extract All’ and it seems to have done it with no nonsense