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A car in the hand is worth two in the bush. Buy right. Buy once. You bought a great car in your 272 Superb. Carry on using it and enjoying it for what it is. Whilst keeping on top of the servicing and replacing parts as they wear out. You know the history of your Superb. You know it should be good to give you plenty more years of faithful service.

Having a Skoda Enyaq ev was a generally a good and comfortable experience, but man was it boring to modify and drive. My hands were itching! So I saw Fabia mk3 with the Monte Carlo bodykit and really liked it - asked my wife if she’d mind I fit one to her Fabia 110 Style - “go ahead honey”! Great. Found the oem front lip extension used for about 40 euros in same color, great. But the rear diffuser/valance was nowhere to be found and new ones are about 400 euros. Eventually found a cheap look-a-like for just 120 euros and ordered it! The quality and fit was absolutely horrendous and numerous tries, removing sikaflex residue and random workarounds, I gave up. It looked so bad! 😂 Now what..? I didnt want just the diffuser now. I wanted to spice it up. And after lots of research here on Briskoda, I ended up finding and ordering a second hand facelift bumper with Monte Carlo kit. Had It painted, and even ordered a set of exhaust dummies. Voila - she looks great again! The process from pre-fl bumper to facelift was very easy and everything fits straight on, if anyone is considering similar.

Looking back, diesel was £1.20 to £1.45 per litre back in 2018. In today's money is: Yet diesel are less than £1.40 at most petrol stations I've seen. In effect, price of petrol/diesel had been going down over the years. A fuel duty increase is long over due. Electricity price have been taken on a wild ride due to price structure tied to fossil gas. https://www.carbonbrief.org/factcheck-why-expensive-gas-not-net-zero-is-keeping-uk-electricity-prices-so-high/ However, with adequate home provision, one can easily make sure electricity price don't change much, even see it go down. From 12p/kWh off-peak economy 7, to 10p/kWh on Bulb EV tariff, to IOG at 7p/kWh. A electricity pricing system restructure is long overdue. From that, we can only see bigger variations between peak and off-peak due to highly variable nature of renewables. Giving more room to lowering electricity bill for those prepared.

🐙 IOG rates....

I'd still rather sit in my own armchair/sofa than go to a community centre or sit in my car, each to their own I suppose, but thats just me with my logical hat firmly on my head.

Had a surprise this morning. Skoda dealer calls to say our new car has arrived and ready for collection tomorrow. Will be something of a rarity as one of the last 85 SportlLine with DCC…. Hoping the Black Magic Pearl Effect looks better in the flesh so to speak 🤞🏻

My experience of ECU Testing and their refusal to discuss the diagnosis beyond the cost is that you will never know.

Even my 2021 sings when it is sub 20 mph, sounds a bit like a Star wars Tie fighter. The Scenic has 3 choices of slow moving sounds including a composition from Jean Michel Jarre which i tend to use as a massive JMJ fan. If anything the safety systems are over the top. A big leaf blowing across the road can trigger the auto braking. Feel very safe in the Scenic. Looking forward to the Mini Cooper E level 1 Exclusive, though it is my sons and it is what to replace the Zoe with is the next question. Might wait until Q4 when the really good deals should emerge as companies have to hit the 28% mandate. Also finance should be cheaper as interest rates in UK and EU are falling. Rosy future forever EVs especially in the UK which is the leading EV country in Europe for sales quantities. I do not see home chargers being hit with extra cost ie vat at 20% or so. Would just charge with a training lead, Arctic spec, and charge at 16A or even 32A via home ring main using Commando socket tech. Non runner trying to charge extra via home chargers IMO.

Very true, except when it's a total bangor and worth £300 quid. I'm actually enjoying the EV drive. Got to say with the right regen level it makes b roads quite good fun. Relative term! The superb is also pretty good fun on a b road, although chews through rear pads trying to keep it's mass stable. I've definitly transitioned to getting from A to B and not so much popping out for a drive/blat around the lanes as I would of done 20years ago. ALmost everything on the market is too powerful to have fun on a GB road legally. The citigo was ironically probably the most fun I had for a while, using momentum and reading of the road to get the most out of it. Been over taken on straights... hehe I did once repass a BMW who braked sharply mid corner, one of those lovely wide open scottish a roads, he zoomed past again on the next straight. arh fun times squeezing past motorhomes on single tracks. A 1.6T Aygo might be the ticket ;) It's just an aygo love, see sensible me present ;)

I made video how i change dataset template by vctool and my cable vas 6154a. you need to have internet connection or mobile hotspot connected. if you dont have it vctool get error server unrechable. the change cost 1,5euro for one car. if you pay one, you can change infinitly on one car. youtube video link for my setup i most like template 14. I have speakers audiosystem R 165, Sub awave ast11tv5 and soundproof door. Get info what dataset you like most.

My instant reaction to that answer would be, why has this suddenly manifested itself, its a 2017 model, 8 years old so how come the software issue has only just become apparent?

I recently part exchanged my manual 2023 1 5 TSi SE L (in the free blue) for a new 1.5 TSi DSG Sportline Edition (in Race blue). I've now covered 750 miles and have a few observations. The matrix headlights are truly exceptional and are probably the most impressive feature of the new car. The Auto-dip main beam works well and they are a revelation in darkness. To my ears the Columbus system sounds a little better than the Amundsen in the SE L, although I'm unsure of technical differences (speakers etc) beyond the frustration of loosing the physical knobs from the older unit. The screen is marginally bigger on the Columbus, but in practice it is a little more cumbersome in operation. I'm pleased to see I now have a full complement of auto-dimming mirrors (only the interior and drivers mirror are in a 2023 SE L). The DSG box is certainly a better match with the 1.5 TSi engine than the manual. It's a pleasure to finally be free of thoughts of stalling the car in traffic. It revs slightly lower at 70 MPH than the manual, although early indications are it is around 10% less fuel efficient than the manual. I'll reserve final judgement until I have filled it a few times though. The electric tailgate (and foot operation) is handy although not sure why it can only be opened, but not closed, from the drivers door? Concerns regarding leaks and reliability aside (I'm a former Yeti Panoramic roof victim!!) it is great to be back in a car with a large opening glass roof (which is under manufacturers warranty for 3 years!). Predictably the numerous driver 'aids' have proved a source of irritation. On occasion I turn them off, but more often than not tolerate the tugging at the wheel and numerous bings & bongs😬 I thought I would find the autonomous cruise control useful, but in practice find I actually prefer the simplicity of the 'dumb' cruise control in the older car. The Sportline front seats are (for me) less comfortable than the SE L seats and appear less 'premium'. I do miss the alcantara of the SE L seats. I lost Varioflex rear seats though am pleased to now have a proper parcel shelf, rather than a mesh roller blind. Pleased to see all interior lights are now LED, as are the front fog lights, although suspect this makes them less functional than Halogen in actual fog 😁 I miss the central storage box from the SE L. This has been a feature since Yeti days and added a useful storage area, so I can't for the life of me think why Skoda would have binned it? The roof-mounted storage box was lost as a consequence of sunroof controls. I had a front and rear Road Angel Dashcam fitted (hard wired) which has largely killed Dab reception. I understand this happens as a consequence of the Dashcam's permanently enabled Wi-Fi. Strangely the same brand Dashcam did not similarly impact either a previous Suzuki, or current FIAT🤔 The Internet Radio sounds considerably better than Dab (? higher bitrate), but in order to use it I have to manually connect to my phones hot-spot. The only alternative would be to purchase a data connection for the car, which I suspect I won't do. Not sure if there is a method of automating the cars connection to my phones Wi-Fi hot-spot? This car has 3 years of Infotainment online and connect services, whereas these expired after 1 year with the previous car. There is a new feature known as 'Traffication', which expires after 1 year. I can't see how this provides much additional functionality over Waze / Google maps, so more than likely won't renew. I had paid to extend remote access on the SE L (I thought it worthwhile as it provided the option to remotely lock and unlock the car - a previous KESSY equipped car locked my keys in which necessitated breaking a window!), although no refund was forthcoming from Skoda when I cancelled the remaining subscription. Swopping insurance from the old to new car brought a significant (15%) reduction in premium! I enquired why and was told as a consequence of the extra 'safety' features of the newer car🤷. The ice scraper is no longer translucent green and there is no longer a method of securing the rear seat belt buckles to stop them rattling when not in use. The tyre pressure sticker is no longer behind the fuel flap. Wireless AA and Apple Carplay work faultlessly, although my Galaxy S23 gets incredibly hot when running AA and wirelessly charging. I am definitely not a fan on the 19" alloys and low profile tyres. The tyres offer barely any protection to the rim and we've already kerbed a diamond cut alloy😳 After reading another thread on here I may opt to purchase 17" Skoda alloys and switch to all-season tyres at some point. This car comes with Dynamic Chassis Control. I tried all the options and find Comfort suits the car well, although frustratingly it defaults to Normal after each restart. Suspect this isn't an option I would have separately paid for - possibly more relevant to a more sporting vehicle with greater performance potential? 17" wheels, a higher profile tyre and DCC on Comfort would be a pleasant combination though👌 The virtual dash has a few more options than the simpler offering in the SE L, although in practice offers little additional functionality. I initially thought the full-screen Satnav display looked impressive, but in practice I'd rather see this on the central infotainment display and just have a simple direction arrow on the dash in front of me. This DSG Sportline Edition was 5% more costly to buy new than the manual SE L it replaced, which I guess may reflect the Karoq is soon to be replaced? All in all I probably should have bought a DSG equipped Karoq first time around!

Hello all, thanks for letting me in! Own a 24 plate Karoq 1.5 SEL dsg. Still getting used to the car and have specific questions! Cheers

I'm now having the second trackrod replaced under warranty and the car has only done 24000 and is nearly 3 years old, has anyone else had this problem or has my car been made out of monkey metal

need odis online for it and vas6154

Welcome. The issues requiring a Service Campaign were on DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG 2013-2015, before this Mk3 Models. (Not started to 2017 as a service campaign.) The car you are looking at has been on the road for 10 years since those and doing low annual mileage. So if it drives fine then good. Is there a good Service History, annual Oil & Filter changes (Engine), brake fluid changed a couple of times, spark plugs changed? There is no issues that i see with the MOT,s. No idea of the price, but car looks pretty good. So tyres, wipers, brake discs, windcreen, do they look good, not needing replaced.

Hello guys Just a new guy around here with an Octavia MK4 2021 with problems on the internet services haha

Thank you

To me it felt crappy on my driving test. That’s all

Update on this subject from me. I confirm the coasting only occurs when driving normally - not in Cruise control. Now that I know it is happening I am less concerned about it. Thanks for all the comments.

Might have been a combo effect of being paired with crappy dq200 too not too sure to be honest but I spent almost 40 mins on each and the diesel won. Picking her up next week

Octopus GO rates from July 2025....... Standing charge now gone to 4 decimals and day time energy cost to 4 decimals !!!! My standing charge is now 2.1453 p cheaper per day and my day time peak rate 0.0001 p per kWh cheaper, whoopie! Suppose one should take into account inflation ie prices have not gone up so therefore effectively have gone down relatively. That would be, assuming 0.85% inflation per quarter, off peak and peak unit rate has dropped by 0.24p per quarter and daily standing charge is going down to by 2.58p per day in real terms. Little disappointed but overall OK. More investment in batteries and solar needed I think.

But if you search more you might find that's a maximum (and/or VW recommendation) and some would have it done well before that mileage interval. I don't know about this box but if you have 4X4, and/or tow heavy caravan or boats, it might be more important for sooner or later. Karoq owners might know from experience. Treat VW's recommendations for their scant "services" and "maintenance schedules" the same way you should MoT passes, as minimum level rather than necessary or better level standards.

looks like its 80k miles

We do get some cold temperatures here in the midlands, second coldest region in the UK. Minus 20c back in 2010. We are the furthest from the sea in the UK. Also get high temps. Looking like well over 30c early next week. Extremes.

not great, not terrible. car producer dont want you to have no problems with your engine, but when problem appears, they call it feature. instead of that i am using 0w30. 5w30 isnt bad, 0W30 is better, not so thin like 0w20, in winter it do same like 0w20. i am buying SHELL helix ultra professional AV-L 504/507.00 0w30, 5 liter can for 40€. changing every 8000 kms. says made in germany.

2.0 tdi 150 bhp Same hill for both cars quite steep and long I specifically asked to drive it there Both dsg 7 speed autos 2025

Pensioners getting their Winter Fuel Payments in England / Wales & now in Scotland can maybe run an EV for the whole winter or even the year just from that money. Or there is the Warm Home Discount as well in England / Wales for some, and a new set up in Scotland for some. Maybe instead of using 'Warm Banks' etc to keep warm they can go sit in the EV using the cheap energy from overnight that they charged the car with, and maybe heated the house or storage heaters using.

I'd read that using 508.00/509.00 can increase oil consumption. It seemed very thin when i used it, I get my oil from TPS and the long life 3 5w/30 was nearly £20 cheaper for 5 Ltrs. Don't suppose there's much difference between the two of them, Just wanted to make doubly sure i can use 5w/30...Thanks for the info.

Totally agree re the matrix headlights, brilliant (no pun) I've noticed when following trucks at a sensible distance with auto-dim on that periodically the reflectors on the back of the truck are illuminated by the matrix lights - presumably to decide whether to go to full beam or not. Ive also noticed the matrix lights are on full beam, based on the blue dash symbol, for longer than I would have had manually controlled full beam on when following or there is oncoming traffic - and I've not been flashed by oncoming traffic. I also like the way the illuminate the verges and road signs at the side of the road so much better than any car i've ever owned. I like the virtual cockpit, I have the full map displayed on the infotainment screen and next direction change the arrow is displayed in the centre of the dash between Taco and speedo, but there are other choices.

Again, thanks for your help. I have now removed the obtrusive iPhone holders quite easily as you suggested and have left the ‘plug’ in the headrest. I have attached photos of the driver’s seat for your information. Thank you again !

It will eventually. I have to install the Kufatec wiring loom, clock spring and do all the coding to make that work. Hopefully by next weekend. Once done the MIB holds a bunch of settings for it under Air Conditioning.

I have the same engine. My understanding is that the thinner oil (0W-20), being less viscous, reduces engine friction and so is used to improve mpg.

We still have 2 cars for now as the second member of our fleet is a low mileage 2006 Fiat Panda (I look like Mr Incredible getting into into and driving it!) that I clearly have rustproofed way too well in the past as it's in surprisingly good condition. Originally bought new by Mrs BJs late father. All looking good for now but I'm sure there will be a badly failed MOT decision day at some point - at which point we probably won't replace. I bought my current car with Mrs BJ in mind but it had to be good for me to drive long distance and have a huge boot (slightly less bothered about rear passengers now). Trouble is I've been spoilt and now have a longer list of minimum requirements - Economy 60mpg +, heated steering wheel (who new!!) , heated seats, his/her climate control, adjustable height rear view mirror(being tall some rvm's badly obstruct my forward vision) , auto (full hybrid in my case) , big door mirrors, auto beam LED headlights, Android Auto, rear camera!!. Original list still stands - spare wheel well, higher profile tyres, no Keyless entry, no touch screen for primary car functions.

At the bottom behind the iPhone holder there is a paddle/lever where it slots into the bit between the headrest bars. pull that forward, finger on each side is best, and the whole thing will come out leaving the plastic bar between the headrest bars. Then raise the headrest There is a sort of button on top in the middle pull the whole thing to rear of the car and it will fold in the middle and drop out. You can leave this in place as it will accept other accessories like the coat hangers.

Generally oil at the bottom started at the top and made its way down. Two places it can certainly leak from are the junction of the boost pipe and throttle body, and from behind the alloy casting/bracket that holds the oil filter, oil cooler and alternator. The former will show itself by there being little puddles of oil in some recesses of the inlet manifold, just to the left of where this plastic pipe attaches to the top of the TB. From there it will make its way down the back of the engine. The latter will tend to send oil down the front left side of the engine, behind alternator, onto air conditioning compressor and below/behind there on block and sump. Leakiness tends to be associated with higher than designed crankcase pressure, so try the following test: With engine warm and idling, loosen the oil filler cap by turning 90°. Does it try to escape upwards, dance around, or get pulled down slightly?

I've gone for the same spec as you apart from keeping the the 20" wheels. First choice was the hyper green which looks great in the photo on my main monitor but on a laptop it looked more yellow so not as good, but without actually seeing it. It is difficult to tell. Next was the velvet red until the family got involved my son said you will look like a boy racer in green and in red it's just a failed Ferrari. Bit gutted🤣. So it's back to black again. 12 - 16 weeks I was told. Which feels like a lifetime. Hope the green looks spot on👍

Hi @ColinD The way I see it, the size of the car is irrelevant. The relevant question is, do you need two cars in the household? If the answer is yes (and I suspect it is), the solution here is to keep the car. As you've said, it is a good car in great condition (with some minor and normal wear and tear work in need of doing, so not an issue). Given the money already invested in the car, which you won't recover selling it, you are better off keeping it if there's a need for two vehicles in the house. Replacing with a "smaller" car is unlikely to deliver any meaningful insurance or fuel savings, and you will be less happy driving it. The current generation Fabia is very impressive (arguably the best - and biggest - iteration yet), but it's a small car and rides/handles like one. Fix the Superb, keep it, bask in the warm glow of happiness that comes from driving a car you like being in.

Well, you've been through "big" and "small" cars so besides a question of choice (me, I do prefer a larger car to drive, in general), the rest of the items are more on the logistics/economical aspect of things ... say some things might be affected more by the size (parking, tax, etc.) some less. You can give a % factor rating to each aspect, and see what direction it goes. Then you add your "personal" factor and you see how that bias the result. Personally, I think my 280 will be the last larger/powerful ICE car I will be needing, so will be very careful to give it away ... but this is me. You only live once (twice only Bond). 🙂

Yes, all appears to be good, icy cold again and the strange noises I heard have apparently gone as well, so all is good again. One thing he did point out to me is that he thought I had diesel knock and suggested that either get some or do it myself is to re torque the injectors as the copper washer does normally require a slight pinching up after a while as it compresses down. he thinks that should cure my slight diesel knock.

OK, the mechanic has just left me after telling me that there was loads of error messages on the car when he did a scan before leaving yesterday, and I explained which I know he was aware of it, that it was perfectly normal for all kinds of error codes after disconnecting the battery 🙄. Perhaps he was setting the scene for something, I don't know, but once he realized that I was not a dumb clueless person, he agreed to take a look. Turned out that he had indeed trapped wire which was shorting to ground, so everything came off again to get at the wire and repair it, now A/C is once again ice cold. Noise also seems to be gone, but I'll find out for sure in a few minutes as I'm going for little spin to do yet more shopping, fingers crossed.

Probably had to unscrew and lower the compressor to make room to drop alt out downwards, then forgot to plug the compressor back in after refitting. Control valve, not clutch. Did the same myself on the Roomster recently. Could reach from above to reconnect on that, doubt you'll have as much luck, but have a look.

https://www.medesign.co.uk/MEDesign-Backfriend I have a couple of these and transferred them to every one of my last 4 cars Don't use the base though, just the back. You might find a 2nd hand back on eBay. My second one was bought from there

First reg is a DQ200, gearbox code WGS. Second is a DQ381, code WFQ. Lee wins the gold star for today. The ever-present child in me wants to know if there's a WTF code anything...😁

Frustrating there isn't a decent manual available but sadly I think fewer and fewer people are getting their hands dirty these days

You are trying to install the wrong update. You have index B and trying to install non-index firmware

General rule I recommend to follow is "If it works without any issues don't touch it" which means don't make a firmware upgrade if everything works ok. Bricking th eunit during firmware upgrade is not very common but still happens so why should anyone take a risk if there is no need? Check you PMs for download link

let the dealer update first and do the swap. Afterwards you can update to 332.

I would suggest if you are worried about that (Evs do catch fire and it is therefore prudent to manage that risk) but the same should be true of petrol and diesel cars which are 20 times more likely to catch fire and would have just as dramatic an effect on your house. I would suggest a lot of people park their fossil fuelled cars close to their houses which the IET would presumably also caution against. I was badly delayed yesterday by a fire which closed the Edinburgh bypass, accordign to a police friend it was a petrol car involved.

That engine in the video isn’t an act version. Even the non act engine there is a locking tool to lock the cams and another one that stops the crank turning. The garage doing the video have done the old school marking everything with paint method and probably you can get away with it on the non act engines, at least the engine will run reasonably enough. There is a very expensive tool for timing the act engines that reads the cam sensors via the obd system to accurately check and adjust the cam timing, or there are some less expensive (but still several £100’s) tools that can check cam position without connecting to the diagnostics. Whilst you might not trust elsapro for some reason, the fact is that the 5 year cam belt interval pushed by all vw uk brands was not necessary on these ea211 engines, and as ootohere posted the uk is now on the same page as the rest of Europe. There have always different recommendations for listed high dust countries in the rest of the world. 1.5act at 8 years old and 75,000 km (or miles), in my opinion, doesn’t need replacing. Take the cover off and inspect it and I bet it is like new. If you really want to get it changed then take it to a vag specialist or Skoda dealer and get it done with the correct equipment. I consider myself to be a reasonably good mechanic and worked at a vw/Audi dealership in the past, I run a car with one of these act engines and have had 2 other 1.4 tsi Octavias, and I wouldn’t embark on a timing belt change without the correct tools.