StevesTruck

It's easy done. If you've got some stiff wire (like the stuff they use for fences), you should be able to get in and hook the catch further up, where it's a "normal" bonnet catch, before skoda extended it with the plastic linkage. Random picture off the internet that may or may not help:

Pretty sure the fuel tank is different as well. From what I recall of looking under a MK2 scout, it's a saddle tank that goes over the prop shaft.

Also called a spline socket. They're fairly common, especially on VAG, so they shouldn't have any problems.

The CCM not responding doesn't necessarily mean anything, it can be a limitation of the software. Try a quick test to see if the motors are getting power: Put the key in the driver's door and turn it to unlock, the hold it there. The windows should all wind down, turn it to lock and hold it there to wind them back up. I'm thinking wiring damage in one of the door shuts, or corrosion in the multiplug.

The front mount they sell is pretty much a copy of the Ibiza cupra intercooler, so I'd imagine you would be ok. Check with them though.

I've always used brake cleaner as well. It's probably worth pricing up an intercooler because you'll never get it all out, and they're not normally too pricey on vags.

Any chance you could have overheated the brakes or given the suspension a hard knock?

195k......

Have you tried cleaning the variable vanes on the turbo? Any fault codes?

It's been a problem on fords for quite a while. I've seen a fair few people starting to use crooklocks on the steering wheel for the first time in about a decade. Most people I know who've got a new van have had deadlocks put on.

It's been a while since I've had anything that age open, but I'm surprised that it's 72 pin RAM with that many slots. I wouldn't expect to see more than 4 slots for 72 pin. 30pin normally has more because it needs to be installed in pairs. If it is 72 pin, 486's would normally be FPM rather than EDO, but EDO will almost always work.

What engine's in it? How long does it run for after it's started?

As above, I'd have thought an SX/25 would be 30 pin. There's a few different sorts, the main difference if it's parity or none-parity, so it's probably best to start with some pictures of the board.

You can do, but if you've managed to back the nut off half a turn, you can get a hacksaw straight on the thread, so it doesn't take much effort at all to saw through them. My point is it's not a job that needs any serious tools.

The cable should be alright, but the aerial bases do fail. You can either replace them like for like, or get something more modern like an aftermarket sharkfin

Yeah, mine's one of the smaller ones, not sure what model it is, I found it. It hasn't got a hard disk, just solid state memory.

That doesn't seem too bad for a bigger garage to do it. Bear in mind that 20% of that's going straight to the Downing Street drinks cabinet, and garages will use their normal parts supplier and mark the part up (because they're a business and they sell stuff) rather than spending an hour on ebay to find the cheapest and sell them on at cost. Most of on here would get the bits and use tools we already own to do a pair on the driveway for £20, but not everyone works that way. It's not a complicated job at all. Maybe see if there's a mobile mechanic by you, or a back street garage? Or if you fancied having a go by yourself, it should be easy enough with a trolley jack, an axle stand, a hacksaw and a few spanners (normally easier to cut the old ones off than try to undo them).

Yeah, still use one through a big pair of cup headphones when I'm on the tractor. The iPod fits in my top pocket better than a phone does, so I don't need a trailing cable.

Assuming your door seals look alright, I'd be saying it's time to get the carpet out and look for water traces. Not a fun job, but it sounds like you've done a decent job of exhausting all other avenues.

It might be the hard water round here, but I used the tablets it they clogged my jets up on a mk2 Octavia.

They have electric power steering, so not far.

Much as I'm sure it's head gasket between a coolant path and a cylinder, there's a couple of extra things you can do to be totally certain. I might be being a bit unfair, but I do tend to associate LPG with head gasket failures. -:When you turn the engine off, the header tank may bubble quite violently as the compression pushes through into the coolant. - Perform a sniffer test. - Give it some pedal and see if it steams out of the exhaust. I caught myself out recently on a car with a faulty egr cooler looking like it's got head gasket failure. There's nowhere on these where the exhaust and coolant run through the same component is there?

The parrot kit is most likely plugged in inline with the normal wiring. You can get an aux in adapter, but you'll normally have to unplug the changer to use it. It doesn't matter that you haven't got the MP3 head unit, they literally just take the audio signal from the headphone socket on the phone, so you can't skip tracks from the head unit controls or anything like that. I just have a Bluetooth speaker that I keep in the car, it's not amazing, but neither are the standard speakers.

In my experience, diesel in the oil on a PD that's running ok is more likely to be caused the o rings on the injectors leaking than the tandem pump failing. Worn cam would show as a rough idle, and be reasonably easy to spot if you take the cover off and have a look. If it's had decent oil it's whole life, there's not likely to be an issue.

I'd try to avoid having to do a significant repair on an aluminium engine, it just doesn't normally go well, especially if they've been overheated. I'd spend the time finding a second hand engine and getting it ready to fit in time for when the inevitable happens.