StevesTruck

Pop the vacuum off the servo and see what it does. The none return valve in the vac system can go faulty and jam the brakes on like you said. If you take the hose off altogether, you should be able to blow through it one way but not the other.b

We've had a couple of cars in lately with key/immobiliser issues, and it's a bit of a blind spot for me. From my understanding, I can code a key in VCDS, if I've got the immob PIN, and you can read that from Hex dumping the immobiliser module, but what do I need in the way of hardware and software to do that, and where do I buy it from?

To be fair, I'd rather change the clutch on a 1.2 Fabia than a Volvo 740.

Check you've got the right bulbs in all the lights and they're in the right way round.

Assuming it's a 1.6TDI Yeah, one pretty dead and one just going over the edge, I'd believe. 4 seems like a stretch. If I'm giving it a guess without seeing the diagnostic read, I think fuel rail pressure sensor. I've just had a set of refurb injectors for £250+exchange off German ebay

Although I'll freely admit I paid Halfords to change one on a 1.9TDI Ibiza once. It was dark, ****ting down with rain, that corner of the engine bay in an Ibiza is way tighter than on a Fabia. I'd got a decent shirt on and I knew the boost hose was covered in oil. So yeah, sitting in the car in the dry having a coffee while he got soaked though and covered in oil, in the dark, 10 minutes before home time was probably the best £7 I ever spent.

I think the answer there is stand back and have an honest talk to yourself about what else it needs, or is likely to need. Or get someone who's not emotionally attached to the car to do that. £250's scrap money if you do it right, so if you weigh it in, you've lost nothing if you've got the means to get it there with the cat, battery and alloy wheels (if it has them) taken off, so you've lost nothing. But at the same time, if that's really all it needs.... cheap motoring..

I'm guessing it's the diesel filter that's in the way? If it's anything like a fabia. A long set of needle-nose pliers and a long, slim flat screwdriver will work where fat hands fail.

C+R Enterprises are in Nottingham and are good on VAG cars

It's the other way round, if you gently apply force, you're more likely to round a fixing than if you shock it. My normal method with sump plugs on vags is to put a ring spanner on, apply a tiny bit of pressure, then tap it round with a mallet.

As in the glow plug light? Believe it or not - Put some new brake light bulbs in and check your brake fluid is topped up.

If you're doing a general look for rust, it's worth having a look at the inner arch lips (especially if the foam blocks are still behind the arch liners), and the backs of the inner sills. My 06 has just started to get a little surface rust on the inner sills. Not bad for 16 years / 200k.

I'd go one of two ways with it. Give it a decent scan with something like VCDS, then get some live data on a drive (I'd probably start with fuel pressure, boost, injector quantity). Or It might be worth looking at cleaning your turbo, or at least having a feel at the actuator to see if it's moving nicely. It's not something I've done on your engine, but there should be a guide on here or YouTube. Any usual noises? Whining turbo, rough idle, misfire?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16471/P0087/000135 is well worth a read.

Petrol or diesel?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/bespokecarmats?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YZ9sNdLcTOa&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=Ciw0HycsQty&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I've bought from here for a lot of years. That long that the first time I used them was for a ford escort. Always been happy with them.

I might be oversimplifying the job, but has the usual multiplug on the alternator wiring been checked?

Bit of a guess here, because I haven't done one on this engine, but on smaller VW's, it's normally a spring-loaded tensioner. Get a long, slim 16mm spanner, slide it up behind the tensioner pulley, and you'll find some flats on the shaft. push the spanner towards the back of the car (against the force of the spring, and it's normally got some force behind it) and it should de-tension the belt. But, I could be totally wrong, haven't done one on these engines.

If in doubt, drop a couple of new bleed nipples in, they cost pennies and it's peace of mind.

If it's got worse since the waterpump was changed, I think I'd be asking the garage that changed it to have another look. It's not unknown for a new waterpump to leak out of the box, or it way not have seated correctly when they fitted it.

That'll do it sadly, particularly if you turned the key with it unplugged. Airbag codes don't go away until they're plugged in and reset.

Fingers crossed! It's one of those faults that can be a right headache.

I don't have a superb, but I find on my octavia that the mirrors are really narrow (maybe I'm too used to driving vans). I went with the uncool option and put a blindspot mirror on nearside.

Check your brake light bulbs and brake fluid level.

I believe the pass/fail point is 58% efficiency, but the tester might well have not nailed the brakes as hard as possible. As long as it goes green and they've still got braking power in reserve, a lot of testers won't see a lot of point in making the car jump about on the rollers. Brake efficiency is the braking effort divided by the vehicle weight, as a percentage.