StevesTruck

It's the other way round, if you gently apply force, you're more likely to round a fixing than if you shock it. My normal method with sump plugs on vags is to put a ring spanner on, apply a tiny bit of pressure, then tap it round with a mallet.

As in the glow plug light? Believe it or not - Put some new brake light bulbs in and check your brake fluid is topped up.

If you're doing a general look for rust, it's worth having a look at the inner arch lips (especially if the foam blocks are still behind the arch liners), and the backs of the inner sills. My 06 has just started to get a little surface rust on the inner sills. Not bad for 16 years / 200k.

I'd go one of two ways with it. Give it a decent scan with something like VCDS, then get some live data on a drive (I'd probably start with fuel pressure, boost, injector quantity). Or It might be worth looking at cleaning your turbo, or at least having a feel at the actuator to see if it's moving nicely. It's not something I've done on your engine, but there should be a guide on here or YouTube. Any usual noises? Whining turbo, rough idle, misfire?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16471/P0087/000135 is well worth a read.

Petrol or diesel?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/bespokecarmats?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YZ9sNdLcTOa&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=Ciw0HycsQty&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I've bought from here for a lot of years. That long that the first time I used them was for a ford escort. Always been happy with them.

I might be oversimplifying the job, but has the usual multiplug on the alternator wiring been checked?

Bit of a guess here, because I haven't done one on this engine, but on smaller VW's, it's normally a spring-loaded tensioner. Get a long, slim 16mm spanner, slide it up behind the tensioner pulley, and you'll find some flats on the shaft. push the spanner towards the back of the car (against the force of the spring, and it's normally got some force behind it) and it should de-tension the belt. But, I could be totally wrong, haven't done one on these engines.

If in doubt, drop a couple of new bleed nipples in, they cost pennies and it's peace of mind.

If it's got worse since the waterpump was changed, I think I'd be asking the garage that changed it to have another look. It's not unknown for a new waterpump to leak out of the box, or it way not have seated correctly when they fitted it.

That'll do it sadly, particularly if you turned the key with it unplugged. Airbag codes don't go away until they're plugged in and reset.

Fingers crossed! It's one of those faults that can be a right headache.

I don't have a superb, but I find on my octavia that the mirrors are really narrow (maybe I'm too used to driving vans). I went with the uncool option and put a blindspot mirror on nearside.

Check your brake light bulbs and brake fluid level.

I believe the pass/fail point is 58% efficiency, but the tester might well have not nailed the brakes as hard as possible. As long as it goes green and they've still got braking power in reserve, a lot of testers won't see a lot of point in making the car jump about on the rollers. Brake efficiency is the braking effort divided by the vehicle weight, as a percentage.

Just a quick thing to check first - is your rear screenwash working? The pipe has a habit of coming off where it goes into the tailgate.

I don't know if it's any help but I replaced the cooler on my 1.9tdi with a used one and it didn't last, so I just piped around it instead. Its not caused any issues.

Depends a bit how you want to go about it. My rear calipers seized up on the octavia when it was sat for a while, and I just needed the car back on the road quick, so I bought a couple from https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk really good company to deal with, prices are fair (unlike ECP and GSF online where they wind the prices up then have a sale most of the time which brings it down to an OK-ish price). If you put your car details in the comments, they double check everything's right before they send the order. https://www.biggred.co.uk/ will refurbish your calipers really well and send them back to you. They take a few days, but do such a nice job, you probably end up with something that's better than a new caliper. If you've got the time and tools, DIYing a rebuild isn't too bad. Always put a new pot in though, whether it needs it a not and take your time getting everything spotless. The thing is, your parts bill can go a fair way towards the cost of either a caliper, or getting someone else to rebuild it. If you're up for taking a chance on a quick bodge. You can often free a rear caliper up reasonably well with some release spray and giving the pot a turn with a set of plumbers grips before putting the windback on. It might not work, and it probably will seize again, but it might get you going for now.

They're not terrible to replace, just takes a bit of patience and strong fingers. I replaced mine with one out of the passenger side of an ibiza.

Yep, I had a new lad have a right go at me when I sent him to get some 😄

You know the advertising boards you get hanging from the ceiling in shops? You'll never guess what we call the hooks that clip/stick onto ceiling.😀

Mate of mine has a 59-plate 2.0 CDTI. It's now on it's third engine.

Not unless you let the fluid level drop too low. Yeah, there might be a tiny drop of old fluid left at the abs pump, but by no means anything to worry about.

I think you'd be doing well to get those extractors in to the ones behind the flywheel. The other option's a swivel socket, switch is a bit shorter than using a universal joint on a normal socket, so might possibly squeeze in. Failing that, you might be able to reshape a swan neck spanner to get in?