StevesTruck

Just to agree with everything @KeithCheethamput - if a 6 sided socket isn't working, I do all the above, then carefully apply the molegrips.

The main problem on the 1.6's is injectors dying, mainly on cars that have only ever pottered around, then go on a long journey.

The main reasons I changed are Fuel injection and ABS. The 700 is just the more modern version. And I broke it already... suspect it's plug caps, so not the end of the world, but it had a ride on a recovery truck.

Getting the NT650 ready to go on ebay. Bought an NT700.

I have an autoleads DFP-20-02 fascia adapter. It does the job, but the fit isn't great, I probably wouldn't buy another one. Theres a fair bit of space behind the radio, so the extra depth shouldn't cause an issue.

Best bet is to read the fault codes, otherwise it's just guessing games really. You can get basic code readers for under 30 quid. They won't do the flashy stuff, but they'll tell you why the lights on.

She's back in the car she likes and it's working like it should do. Don't worry about how you got there.

I had this with a cheap camera. Luckily the kenwood head unit it was plugged into had an option to flip the image.

They suit well! I think the disc you need is off an older Audi S3, fairly sure that's what I used when I upgraded to 312's on the caddy. I'm not 100% on that though because it's a few years ago and I can't remember what I had for breakfast most days

Fair play. I've not worked on that part of a roomster, but normally there's two separate bits of trim. The lower plastic one covers the belt, and the upper one (normally part of the soft headlining) covers the curtain bag. I don't know if it will be the same on your car? On the fabias, the seatbelt trim has a lip down the sides that sits in the door rubber, and 4? Triangular shaped trim clips that push into the door pillar on the cars shell. It's worth using something plastic to release the trim from the door rubber, then if you want, you can take that bit of rubber off the door frame so the trim isn't twisted, and run a small prybar trim tool up the back of the trim. Get it as near as you can to the clips, then it's a straight pull away from the pillar to release them. If you're a bit more fatalistic, as I am, to can also just wiggle and pull the trim off the pillar. All of the above, assuming it's the same as a fabia.

How frayed is it? If it's a few straggley bits on an otherwise good belt, it is possible to tidy them up with a cigarette lighter.

Do these have a stop valve/solenoid? Could equally be that as much as the immobiliser.

Avoid the 1.2 petrol in all it's forms, and generally anything with an Aluminium block. I'm also not a fan of any direct injection petrol engine.

.

My last two have been small traders listing their p/x's on ebay. Both have had niggles, but nothing major.

To be fair, euro do send what you've ordered when they say they're going to send it, the down side is trying to work out what you want to order from their website. You'll have a choice of two parts. One will say something like 3 bolt fixing, the other will say something unrelated like 270mm diameter. I'd rather ring my local parts place and have a chat with someone who knows what they're doing. Cheaper too.

A couple of people that I go kayaking with use a combination code key safe that's like a padlock and hang it on the roof rack or the towing eye. I just take my van and leave the keys in the back. If you don't know exactly where to punch the back door, it's not opening

I don't rate autodoc at all, slow despatch and delivery. I paid extra for a Hitachi sensor off them and they still sent some random crap that lasted 3 days.

Can't go wrong at that really. We've had a couple of Luk flywheels not last well in transit flatbeds, bit that could be in part down to how they're treated

Same here My general rule buying cars at this end of the market is to spend half my budget, and save the other half for making sure it's right. I tend to think the only difference between most £1000 cars and most £2000 cars is a wax and polish. I bought a mk2 octavia 1.9 in a hurry back in November, spent about £1000 on the car, and left myself some budget for what it's needed (wheel bearing, header tank, battery, MAF), which is stuff I'd be suspecting most cars it's age would be needing sooner or later anyway. £300 and some spanner time and I'm happy that it doesn't really need anything.

It's got them, it's still terrible.

Having done a couple of 80 mile round trip commutes in the ice and snow in my 2wd 1.9 DSG.... I can see very much the point in the 4wd version. Mine's terrible at winter driving

If I'm doing a stab in the dark, I'd say it's going to be a roller/pulley/tensioner. Did they say were replacing a full kit? Is it worse if you start the engine from cold and stick the headlights on (basically load up the alternator)?

Yep, doing that with it on the car worked well. Thanks chaps

Looks alright. Any radial (clockface) play innit?