StevesTruck

Next on the list of things that are broken..... The heater's either hot, or cold, nothing in between. Nothing showing on VCDS (can't believe it's not got seized heater flaps on it's list of woes). If it were my mk1 fabia, I'd be cleaning out the little vent on the climate control panel that measures the cabin temperature - where is it on a mk2 octy?

I think one clutch does the odd numbers, one does the evens, so it could well be one of the clutches

Employ an assistant to shrink wrap the car once you're in it. When you reach your destination, alight via sunroof.

I'd say no, it looks like someone's swapped the locker out for a normal wheel bolt. It doesn't look to match the rest though, so I might be tempted to drop that one that doesn't match out and make sure it's the right sort.

There's a lot of reasons the VRS doesn't do well on bad roads and mud. Dad has a standard SDI, and it's far better than my VRS on bad terrain. The VRS bumpers are lower, the wide, lower profile, tyres don't dig and grip like his 185's, but just scrabble on the surface instead.

Depends on what you're padding. I haven't got a citigo, but my 7 foot long coaching / use and abuse boat lives on the 4 foot long roof of my MK2 caddy. It's just laid upside down on a cheap pair of bars with four pound shop straps, 2 in a barrel wrap for and aft and two in a barrel wrap making a cross, it can do thousands of miles up there and not move an inch

SDI won't unless you've got really lucky and found one with a Bosch pump, then it might.

Just to agree with everything @KeithCheethamput - if a 6 sided socket isn't working, I do all the above, then carefully apply the molegrips.

The main problem on the 1.6's is injectors dying, mainly on cars that have only ever pottered around, then go on a long journey.

The main reasons I changed are Fuel injection and ABS. The 700 is just the more modern version. And I broke it already... suspect it's plug caps, so not the end of the world, but it had a ride on a recovery truck.

Getting the NT650 ready to go on ebay. Bought an NT700.

I have an autoleads DFP-20-02 fascia adapter. It does the job, but the fit isn't great, I probably wouldn't buy another one. Theres a fair bit of space behind the radio, so the extra depth shouldn't cause an issue.

Best bet is to read the fault codes, otherwise it's just guessing games really. You can get basic code readers for under 30 quid. They won't do the flashy stuff, but they'll tell you why the lights on.

She's back in the car she likes and it's working like it should do. Don't worry about how you got there.

I had this with a cheap camera. Luckily the kenwood head unit it was plugged into had an option to flip the image.

They suit well! I think the disc you need is off an older Audi S3, fairly sure that's what I used when I upgraded to 312's on the caddy. I'm not 100% on that though because it's a few years ago and I can't remember what I had for breakfast most days

Fair play. I've not worked on that part of a roomster, but normally there's two separate bits of trim. The lower plastic one covers the belt, and the upper one (normally part of the soft headlining) covers the curtain bag. I don't know if it will be the same on your car? On the fabias, the seatbelt trim has a lip down the sides that sits in the door rubber, and 4? Triangular shaped trim clips that push into the door pillar on the cars shell. It's worth using something plastic to release the trim from the door rubber, then if you want, you can take that bit of rubber off the door frame so the trim isn't twisted, and run a small prybar trim tool up the back of the trim. Get it as near as you can to the clips, then it's a straight pull away from the pillar to release them. If you're a bit more fatalistic, as I am, to can also just wiggle and pull the trim off the pillar. All of the above, assuming it's the same as a fabia.

How frayed is it? If it's a few straggley bits on an otherwise good belt, it is possible to tidy them up with a cigarette lighter.

Do these have a stop valve/solenoid? Could equally be that as much as the immobiliser.

Avoid the 1.2 petrol in all it's forms, and generally anything with an Aluminium block. I'm also not a fan of any direct injection petrol engine.

.

My last two have been small traders listing their p/x's on ebay. Both have had niggles, but nothing major.

To be fair, euro do send what you've ordered when they say they're going to send it, the down side is trying to work out what you want to order from their website. You'll have a choice of two parts. One will say something like 3 bolt fixing, the other will say something unrelated like 270mm diameter. I'd rather ring my local parts place and have a chat with someone who knows what they're doing. Cheaper too.

A couple of people that I go kayaking with use a combination code key safe that's like a padlock and hang it on the roof rack or the towing eye. I just take my van and leave the keys in the back. If you don't know exactly where to punch the back door, it's not opening

I don't rate autodoc at all, slow despatch and delivery. I paid extra for a Hitachi sensor off them and they still sent some random crap that lasted 3 days.