StevesTruck

At the very minimum, I'd replace 10+11 on the fronts and 8 on the rears, because they do get grubby and corrode, so don't normally come out without a fight.

Exactly

The chip shops normally return used oil via an arrangement with their supplier. Other establishments normally have to pay for the collection, so theres a chance there. To be fair, I've not really heard of anyone running on it in at least 5 years, so you've got a fair chance of finding a source of oil. The other one I used to do was filter and separate the water from waste engine oil and throw a bit of that in the tank with the veg oil.

I'd be thinking is a timing issue.

The other one I've used when I've been stuck is a G-clamp. Not elegant, but it works.

Not quite as unlikely as someone stealing the 15" steelies off mine - I've got no idea why it had locking wheel nuts on when I bought it 🤣

Is it an old-fashioned twist on can type? I normally just put a couple of latex gloves on and use the force. Cup wrench sockets are the best option if you can find one to fit. A mate has one of these and he says it's good https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/halfords-advanced-adjustable-oil-filter-remover-926527.html When you order the new one, have a shop around for one with a hexagon on the end so you can just put a socket on next time (Bosch filters normally have this feature). Worst case, sharpen an old screwdriver and bludgeon it through the side of the filter and use that to lever it round.

There's quite a bit of adjustment on the subframe mounts. I haven't done a golf/oct conversaion, but generally speaking if I'm dropping a subframe, I tend to paint around the old frame with some primer, then line the new one up to the edge of the paint mark, so I've got the best chance of getting it put on square.

It's been a long time since I've done it. I used to run an Astravan on veg oil, but that's going back 15 years. I always took the rule of thumb to be if it's a Bosch pump, it's got a chance of working, anything else, don't even try. I always thought the older VE pumps, be it D/TD/TDI were ok if they had a Bosch pump, but the PD and SDI aren't at all.

Can you run PD's on veggy? I thought it was just the older VE engine in the mk1's that would take it?

I paid Halfords to fit a bulb once, it was worth every penny. It was also pitch dark and raining sideways. Also worth mentioning that the boost hoses behind the headlight were caked in oil.

I just put a pair of these in dad's fabia, they give a nice bright white beam BOSCH H7 HEADLIGHT LAMP BULBS PURE LIGHT HALOGEN 477 499 12v 55w TWIN PACK A1396 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223279893281?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oVHWpHOgT3q&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Ciw0HycsQty&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL Drivers side is really easy, passenger side needs you to manipulate the cover a bit to get it out of the engine bay due to the battery box being a bit close. Unclip the cover and move it towards the radiator. Turn it so it stands on end, and it comes out fairly easily.

I'd suspect driver's side front wheel then, it feeds the wheel speed back to the ECU for that sort of thing on most VAG's.

They do fail over time. If you're minded to look into it yourself: Sometimes they just need a clean (particularly if it's in a rear drum brake), or a bit of contact cleaner in the plug. Likewise, the cable that goes down to the sensor can get damaged, particularly on the fronts. The sensors themselves aren't terrible to change, just give them a spray up the night before and use a decent hex bit when you take it out, as rounding them off isn't fun. if you're fitting a new one, use a decent brand.

I looked into adding a row of standard ford seats in the back of a transit van, using all the mounts and parts that ford do.... Complete headache to get the DVLA to go for it, so I'd say it's a none starter unfortunately.

Glad you got it sorted. Always look for the simple stuff first 👍

Loose exhaust? Wheels not done up right?

I'm 6 foot and wouldn't have a hope of sleeping in my Fabia hatchback, I think the estate's about 6" longer, so I'll go with a no on that. My Octavia hatchback is fine for it though. The worst I have to do is wind the seat back up a bit or slide it forwards.

The other option is a set of twist/spiral sockets that bite on from the outside of the bolt head, depends a bit how much clearance you have between the bolt and the wheel though. The set I use were made by Trident and were very much not cheap. The other way involves a set of cobalt drill bits and the patience of a saint.

That would explain the anti-shudder valve fault then, as the delete does away with the part. Any chance the fuel system could be pulling in air somewhere?

Probably not the case for your fault, but it's an easy thing to try - If you look at the bottom of your heater controls, there's a tidy little grill. that's an intake for the cabin temperature sender. It can be full of dust, so if you can get a little hoover nozzle over it, it might help matters. A decent diagnostic scan will tell you if the mixer flap motor is working properly.

It's not impossible, we all make mistakes. At the same time though, it might just be something as simple as it being airlocked and clearing the trapped bubbles as you drove it. The level will always go up and down marginally due to thermal expansion. If you've got a decent sized bit of cardboard, slide that under the car and leave it over night, then see if there's any wet patches in the morning. If not, put it back and run it up to temperature, let it idle a while and see if it drops any. Failing that, nip it back to the garage and ask them to have a quick double check for signs of a leak.

There was talk about it going into short supply just before xmas. I never heard a specific reason. I'm wonderring if whatever caused that concern has finally happened.

I always used to run Avons, but in the last few years there's been too many issues with the sidewalls cracking for me to chance it again.

Cheers lads, it can be an issue of lining up what the diagnostics system calls something, versus what a part is commonly known as. I'd probably be having a look at the anti shudder valve itself then to make sure it's re-opening reliably when you go to restart the engine. It might just be that it's clogging up on crap if the EGR needs a clean and that it's taking a few goes to fight past that.