StevesTruck

Can you run PD's on veggy? I thought it was just the older VE engine in the mk1's that would take it?

I paid Halfords to fit a bulb once, it was worth every penny. It was also pitch dark and raining sideways. Also worth mentioning that the boost hoses behind the headlight were caked in oil.

I just put a pair of these in dad's fabia, they give a nice bright white beam BOSCH H7 HEADLIGHT LAMP BULBS PURE LIGHT HALOGEN 477 499 12v 55w TWIN PACK A1396 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223279893281?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oVHWpHOgT3q&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Ciw0HycsQty&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL Drivers side is really easy, passenger side needs you to manipulate the cover a bit to get it out of the engine bay due to the battery box being a bit close. Unclip the cover and move it towards the radiator. Turn it so it stands on end, and it comes out fairly easily.

I'd suspect driver's side front wheel then, it feeds the wheel speed back to the ECU for that sort of thing on most VAG's.

They do fail over time. If you're minded to look into it yourself: Sometimes they just need a clean (particularly if it's in a rear drum brake), or a bit of contact cleaner in the plug. Likewise, the cable that goes down to the sensor can get damaged, particularly on the fronts. The sensors themselves aren't terrible to change, just give them a spray up the night before and use a decent hex bit when you take it out, as rounding them off isn't fun. if you're fitting a new one, use a decent brand.

I looked into adding a row of standard ford seats in the back of a transit van, using all the mounts and parts that ford do.... Complete headache to get the DVLA to go for it, so I'd say it's a none starter unfortunately.

Glad you got it sorted. Always look for the simple stuff first 👍

Loose exhaust? Wheels not done up right?

I'm 6 foot and wouldn't have a hope of sleeping in my Fabia hatchback, I think the estate's about 6" longer, so I'll go with a no on that. My Octavia hatchback is fine for it though. The worst I have to do is wind the seat back up a bit or slide it forwards.

The other option is a set of twist/spiral sockets that bite on from the outside of the bolt head, depends a bit how much clearance you have between the bolt and the wheel though. The set I use were made by Trident and were very much not cheap. The other way involves a set of cobalt drill bits and the patience of a saint.

That would explain the anti-shudder valve fault then, as the delete does away with the part. Any chance the fuel system could be pulling in air somewhere?

Probably not the case for your fault, but it's an easy thing to try - If you look at the bottom of your heater controls, there's a tidy little grill. that's an intake for the cabin temperature sender. It can be full of dust, so if you can get a little hoover nozzle over it, it might help matters. A decent diagnostic scan will tell you if the mixer flap motor is working properly.

It's not impossible, we all make mistakes. At the same time though, it might just be something as simple as it being airlocked and clearing the trapped bubbles as you drove it. The level will always go up and down marginally due to thermal expansion. If you've got a decent sized bit of cardboard, slide that under the car and leave it over night, then see if there's any wet patches in the morning. If not, put it back and run it up to temperature, let it idle a while and see if it drops any. Failing that, nip it back to the garage and ask them to have a quick double check for signs of a leak.

There was talk about it going into short supply just before xmas. I never heard a specific reason. I'm wonderring if whatever caused that concern has finally happened.

I always used to run Avons, but in the last few years there's been too many issues with the sidewalls cracking for me to chance it again.

Cheers lads, it can be an issue of lining up what the diagnostics system calls something, versus what a part is commonly known as. I'd probably be having a look at the anti shudder valve itself then to make sure it's re-opening reliably when you go to restart the engine. It might just be that it's clogging up on crap if the EGR needs a clean and that it's taking a few goes to fight past that.

They do rely on a bit of glow, I can't see it causing that much of a problem. That 19561 error could be a factor, I could be wrong, but I think that's the anti shudder valve that operates when the engine is shutting down? It might also be worth checking your injection timing, if your diagnostic kit has the ability. Have you done an EGR delete?

I've had a set done on a 2.0 SDI in a 2k caddy and it seemed to help the situation. I wouldn't expect a 2.0 to ever need rings.

I'd say the smart money's on injector seals.

Looks that way. Mines the current model if you want to try it before you buy one? I work in Lincoln.

That's decent enough - what engines in it? But of a comparison from the cheap seats: I did Dundee and back for a weekend in my base spec MK2 TDI. On the way up I stopped for a leak just south of the border. According to the MFA: 246 miles 64.8 mpg 4 hours 30 min 55mph AVG Not luxurious, but totally comfortable apart from my iffy shoulder starting to complain a bit on the Edinburgh bypass. Only real downside is, it ain't fast. But I was going up the A1 in the afternoon, so limited opportunity for that anyway. Oh, and I used a litre of coolant 🤣

That's not where your cat is, that's just two bits of exhaust that have come disconnected. No idea how, you normally couldn't separate them if you tried

I'm in Alford, get all over the place with work though.

Give it a spray and try again next weekend.

@Gizmo Can you add me on to the list please? I have Hex V2. Alford, Lincs LN13