StevesTruck

I might be oversimplifying the job, but has the usual multiplug on the alternator wiring been checked?

Bit of a guess here, because I haven't done one on this engine, but on smaller VW's, it's normally a spring-loaded tensioner. Get a long, slim 16mm spanner, slide it up behind the tensioner pulley, and you'll find some flats on the shaft. push the spanner towards the back of the car (against the force of the spring, and it's normally got some force behind it) and it should de-tension the belt. But, I could be totally wrong, haven't done one on these engines.

If in doubt, drop a couple of new bleed nipples in, they cost pennies and it's peace of mind.

If it's got worse since the waterpump was changed, I think I'd be asking the garage that changed it to have another look. It's not unknown for a new waterpump to leak out of the box, or it way not have seated correctly when they fitted it.

That'll do it sadly, particularly if you turned the key with it unplugged. Airbag codes don't go away until they're plugged in and reset.

Fingers crossed! It's one of those faults that can be a right headache.

I don't have a superb, but I find on my octavia that the mirrors are really narrow (maybe I'm too used to driving vans). I went with the uncool option and put a blindspot mirror on nearside.

Check your brake light bulbs and brake fluid level.

I believe the pass/fail point is 58% efficiency, but the tester might well have not nailed the brakes as hard as possible. As long as it goes green and they've still got braking power in reserve, a lot of testers won't see a lot of point in making the car jump about on the rollers. Brake efficiency is the braking effort divided by the vehicle weight, as a percentage.

Just a quick thing to check first - is your rear screenwash working? The pipe has a habit of coming off where it goes into the tailgate.

I don't know if it's any help but I replaced the cooler on my 1.9tdi with a used one and it didn't last, so I just piped around it instead. Its not caused any issues.

Depends a bit how you want to go about it. My rear calipers seized up on the octavia when it was sat for a while, and I just needed the car back on the road quick, so I bought a couple from https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk really good company to deal with, prices are fair (unlike ECP and GSF online where they wind the prices up then have a sale most of the time which brings it down to an OK-ish price). If you put your car details in the comments, they double check everything's right before they send the order. https://www.biggred.co.uk/ will refurbish your calipers really well and send them back to you. They take a few days, but do such a nice job, you probably end up with something that's better than a new caliper. If you've got the time and tools, DIYing a rebuild isn't too bad. Always put a new pot in though, whether it needs it a not and take your time getting everything spotless. The thing is, your parts bill can go a fair way towards the cost of either a caliper, or getting someone else to rebuild it. If you're up for taking a chance on a quick bodge. You can often free a rear caliper up reasonably well with some release spray and giving the pot a turn with a set of plumbers grips before putting the windback on. It might not work, and it probably will seize again, but it might get you going for now.

They're not terrible to replace, just takes a bit of patience and strong fingers. I replaced mine with one out of the passenger side of an ibiza.

Yep, I had a new lad have a right go at me when I sent him to get some 😄

You know the advertising boards you get hanging from the ceiling in shops? You'll never guess what we call the hooks that clip/stick onto ceiling.😀

Mate of mine has a 59-plate 2.0 CDTI. It's now on it's third engine.

Not unless you let the fluid level drop too low. Yeah, there might be a tiny drop of old fluid left at the abs pump, but by no means anything to worry about.

I think you'd be doing well to get those extractors in to the ones behind the flywheel. The other option's a swivel socket, switch is a bit shorter than using a universal joint on a normal socket, so might possibly squeeze in. Failing that, you might be able to reshape a swan neck spanner to get in?

I just bought a big bag of the right size panhead screws and another one of speed fasteners off ebay ages ago. If you search for VW undertray screws, you'll get something the right size.

I've got to admit I'm not sure how you set the level on these boxes or if it's a hot or cold level.

That's the right amount to fill the box from empty, but on a change, you never truly get all the old stuff out.

From what I can see, that's the right spec. There's 2 different VAG part numbers for the oil. G005100A1 for up to 2005 and G052157a2 for after that date. Is there a chance you could have over filled it?

🤣 I once lost quite a decent tape deck when my dad borrowed my Fiat Panda and forgot to take the front of it. He couldn't work out how they got in without doing any damage. My theory is they peeled the gaffa tape off that made up the top of the door skin, lifted the lock, then smoothed the tape back down.

The old Novas were fairly easy to get into with a coat hanger.

I did one on a Polo 1.6TDI the other week. I used a Laser 6710 Ball End Hex Bit 1/2" 5mm (tenner off Amazon), and it worked well. It's probably worth throwing a couple of bolts back in while you work on the awkward one. When I was putting the bolts back, I used a wrap or two of masking tape to hold the awkward ones on the bit. Yeah, it left a bit of tape behind, but it's on back side of the flywheel and will probably break up fairly quickly. Make sure you save the best 2/3 bolts to put back at the gearbox end, rather than any that are a bit chewed.