StevesTruck

I'd wouldn't fit anything other than Febi/Bilstein or SKF. Much as it might cost £20 more, it's not a job you want to be doing twice.

The magnets aren't always amazing on cheap wheel bearings. We had it recently on a mini where a new bearing threw an abs fault that we couldn't find a reason for, in the end, we gave up and installed a better brand and it solved it.

288's are fine for stopping, but the feel and progressiveness is much better on 312's. I've treated 288's really badly and they won't fade if you've got good quality pads and discs.

I've seen someone trying to use then and he was having bother getting them past the brakes, I can't remember what vehicle that was on though, apart from it being a modern 4x4'y-looking thing.

Mine's an autoleads one, DFP-20-02. It's not amazing, but after a bit of modification, it's about acceptable.

Give the screws a good spray the night before. The threads are exposed on the underside, so they can get gunked up, especially if it's not been off for a while. If you've got a small impact driver (the kind of scale you'd use for putting screws in wood, not wheels on wagons), it's worth using that to crack the screws off. Personally, I drain the filter housing off into a jar, so I can have a look at the state of the fuel in there, then refill the housing with a suitable injector cleaner. Start the engine up and go for a blast. I appreciate that's not to everyone's taste, but works for me.

What did you scan it with? I'd expect to see at least a saved code for an intermittent misfire. I'm not great on engine codes, is BKD one of the 2.0 16V diesels with the PD injection on?

It's easy done. If you've got some stiff wire (like the stuff they use for fences), you should be able to get in and hook the catch further up, where it's a "normal" bonnet catch, before skoda extended it with the plastic linkage. Random picture off the internet that may or may not help:

Pretty sure the fuel tank is different as well. From what I recall of looking under a MK2 scout, it's a saddle tank that goes over the prop shaft.

Also called a spline socket. They're fairly common, especially on VAG, so they shouldn't have any problems.

The CCM not responding doesn't necessarily mean anything, it can be a limitation of the software. Try a quick test to see if the motors are getting power: Put the key in the driver's door and turn it to unlock, the hold it there. The windows should all wind down, turn it to lock and hold it there to wind them back up. I'm thinking wiring damage in one of the door shuts, or corrosion in the multiplug.

The front mount they sell is pretty much a copy of the Ibiza cupra intercooler, so I'd imagine you would be ok. Check with them though.

I've always used brake cleaner as well. It's probably worth pricing up an intercooler because you'll never get it all out, and they're not normally too pricey on vags.

Any chance you could have overheated the brakes or given the suspension a hard knock?

195k......

Have you tried cleaning the variable vanes on the turbo? Any fault codes?

It's been a problem on fords for quite a while. I've seen a fair few people starting to use crooklocks on the steering wheel for the first time in about a decade. Most people I know who've got a new van have had deadlocks put on.

It's been a while since I've had anything that age open, but I'm surprised that it's 72 pin RAM with that many slots. I wouldn't expect to see more than 4 slots for 72 pin. 30pin normally has more because it needs to be installed in pairs. If it is 72 pin, 486's would normally be FPM rather than EDO, but EDO will almost always work.

What engine's in it? How long does it run for after it's started?

As above, I'd have thought an SX/25 would be 30 pin. There's a few different sorts, the main difference if it's parity or none-parity, so it's probably best to start with some pictures of the board.

You can do, but if you've managed to back the nut off half a turn, you can get a hacksaw straight on the thread, so it doesn't take much effort at all to saw through them. My point is it's not a job that needs any serious tools.

The cable should be alright, but the aerial bases do fail. You can either replace them like for like, or get something more modern like an aftermarket sharkfin

Yeah, mine's one of the smaller ones, not sure what model it is, I found it. It hasn't got a hard disk, just solid state memory.

That doesn't seem too bad for a bigger garage to do it. Bear in mind that 20% of that's going straight to the Downing Street drinks cabinet, and garages will use their normal parts supplier and mark the part up (because they're a business and they sell stuff) rather than spending an hour on ebay to find the cheapest and sell them on at cost. Most of on here would get the bits and use tools we already own to do a pair on the driveway for £20, but not everyone works that way. It's not a complicated job at all. Maybe see if there's a mobile mechanic by you, or a back street garage? Or if you fancied having a go by yourself, it should be easy enough with a trolley jack, an axle stand, a hacksaw and a few spanners (normally easier to cut the old ones off than try to undo them).

Yeah, still use one through a big pair of cup headphones when I'm on the tractor. The iPod fits in my top pocket better than a phone does, so I don't need a trailing cable.