KenONeill

Lose the YingTong Ditchfinders NOW!!!

LHF wing, below the headlight and next to the horn (RHD car).

You're not wrong; that "test" marks you down for anticipating a hazard rather than driving up to it and reacting at the last moment.

Neither have I. of, course, at that point I hadn't heard the engine running, but that sounds more like tappets than piston slap anyway.

Or typically, a speed where you can stop in half the distance you can see clear.

Not sure I agree about the smoking; piston slap sounds like a whoosh, whoosh, whoosh... sound IME before it ever gets the length of oil usage.

Right order (I think), but pedal pumping rather than vacuum bleeding risks getting air into the ABS block, with possibly the results you document. I think you may need to do a VCDS bleed of the ABS.

Yes. Which technique did you use to bleed them?

Put it on youtube, and do a link then.

No idea without fault code(s).

Probably not, but that tends to be an issue with most car manufacturer prat navs, rather than Skoda specific.

And I hit a pheasant with a previous car, with no damage to the car* other than having to re-spline the passenger side wiper arm. *The pheasant wasn't so lucky.

And I have the contra view, to the extent that I'd choose a "normal" version over a Monte.

If this is accurate, surely the meter reading should be a shade under 12v until the alternator software deigns to switch it on?

There are no such things as torque values for screws. There sometimes are for bolts, studs and set screws but those are all. Also, as stated earlier, even if correct the values and presentation in Haynes are copyright.

Well, over the last couple of week, I've been watching the Tour de France, and it's quite noticeable just how many French roads outside town don't have a centre line and 2 side lines, which appears to be a prerequisite for "second guess you steer" to "work as advertised" at all. I think it's better to not even fit a "safety feature" than to fit one that works inconsistently.

Sure, but "buy cheap, buy twice" applies to most Fleabay parts.

And the rest; try 14.4v on the 0-20v scale.

I still think it's barb marks, but if you're not happy take it back. Buy me some nachos and beer to have while I'm watching!

Which rather ignores the position you're in, and cases where the old shims fail due to corrosion.

A picture!

Well, I don't think so. It looks more like that hide had a couple of barbed wire marks in a fairly visible position.

I was answering what I read the OP as asking "what do I need to do to make a trailer lighting board work?", and not "what hoops do I have to jump through to get full functionality?"

You need a standard 7 pin trailer electrics socket wiring into your car.

Edit inline, bold.