KenONeill

OK, accepted, but remember that consumer rights law varies from nation to nation.

The software controlled temperature hiding system strikes again!

No comment on Croatian consumer rights legislation, but in the UK, as long as the mechanics are trained you don't invalidate the warranty.

To make sure the oil is nice and hot and hence thin.

sticky wiper spindle.

If it can make the car uncomfortably cold inside in this weather, that's as good as it gets. If it can't, look for automotive air conditioning in your phone book or yell.com; do not waste time and money taking the car to a main stealer.

Find an independent that can look at it sooner. All the light tells us is that a fault has been logged in the engine management, not what it is.

Yeah, that makes sense. The problem is that the engine speed is fractionally too low for the combined drag of the transmission and a/c. If your main stealer's service monkeys can't adjust the idle speed, go to an independent who employs and trains real mechanics and software engineers.

Click on the ellipsis "..." top right of a post, and you will get an option to edit your post, for 1 hour after you made it.

As above, the only reason I thought of dirt in the switch capillary is that it's happened to my Dad.

I don't know his car, but other places I've heard of:- oil gauge tapping separated from pressure switch. sandwich plate for oil cooler. I've not said that this is the case; just that some cars have had up to 3 possible test points for oil pressure.

OK, I can agree your point, but it's taken us all day to actually understand it. The 2 most likely causes are still either my original suggestion of the starter inhibit, or it could be that the idle speed is fractionally (think maybe 50rpm) too low.

There's also the question of where the gauge is connected, since most manufacturers' tests are based on the tapping point for the pressure light transponder. @Subby1345 - Having said which, I'm also remembering one of my Dad's old cars, where a speck of carbon got into the transponder, and caused intermittent low pressure readings. A quick search says that a new part is under £15...

OK, I may have misunderstood what you meant to say, but the starter inhibit function should be disabled when the stop/start is on.

Perhaps you're not saying what you actually mean then. "Starting" is the act of firing the engine, selecting gear and moving off. So what you're saying to a native English speaker is that the car allows you to fire the engine in Drive, and then shuts itself down again before you can move off.

And I'm talking about how the distance, engine run time and average speed calculations are done. An understanding of those is pretty fundamental to an understanding of trip mpg and overall mpg.

That sounds to me like the start detent selector is not working correctly. It should only allow you to start the engine when in Neutral or Park.

This is worked out from "engine fired by key/button" to "engine switched off by key/button": stop/start has no effect.

I'd suggest 1_200 rpm, based on where I short shift in town.

New parts have been known to be faulty too.

That is an unusual design, with obvious advantages, at least as long as the distributor shaft bearings in the holder never wear.

Any tips, I mean other than "even professional mechanics don't always get a new distributor on the right tooth of the drive cam first time"?

LEDs are originally derived from germanium diodes, used to pass current one way but not the other through a circuit. Germanium is a classical semiconductor.

There has never been a homologated WRC version of an Octavia Mk2 or later. As such, any component describing itself as "WRC part" is pure marketing with no standing in actuality.

Your head is worth less than £500?