KenONeill

Could be, but the 90 is usefully quick anyway (based on a hire car in/around M25 and M3, and Farnboro).

Well, FWIW that's how I read your previous anyway.

Which tune? If it's a 110 (TDi) I'd suspect either a popped turbo hose or stuck vanes in the VVT. Look under guide for the "Mr Muscle Fix".

I've never seen that on any make, including VAG makes.

Well, my normal procedure is to drain sump and change filter, replace drain plug, refill with the recommended quantity, run the engine for about 20s, then take a tea break to allow oil to drain into the sump, then check and possibly adjust the oil level.

Guys, Max has won approximately none, and ATM to even win one I think he'll have to beat Lewis and Charles, and quite possibly Lando...

Let me know when he wins his third F1 championship.

You mean, like Scotland? As I write this, the sun is still up here, just outside Glasgow.

Broken spring, breaking up wheel bearing or CV joint, issue with gearbox...

No reservations other than the noted point about the water pump.

Get a proper deep load test. Most battery suppliers will do that for free if they get the business should you need a new battery.

What does or does not exist where you live is not relevant to my point that there are nighttime conditions where dipped headlights are not needs, and can dazzle other drivers.

This sounds like a classic issue with the cold start enrichment with EMS plus a (reading between the lines) presumed automatic transmission.

Cambelt, unless there is an invoice for belt kit plus water pump in the last 80_000 km. The reason for changing the water pump is that its life is about 1.5x the cambelt change interval, and you need a new belt (2 to 3 hours) when you change the water pump (15 minutes if the belt is off anyway).

Agreed - the part number is moulded into the part, but the photo isn't good enough to let me read it. Or just throw it away.

Big clue to the actual fault. You almost certainly have a broken wire in the bellows to the driver's door, and need to continuity test those wires.

Or just turn in on someone who's part way up his inside?

Also @Dogswards - Go to a Skoda dealer and ask the Parts Department to order a new ignition switch for Skoda Felicia $chassis_number, and they should supply one with the correct key barrel for your existing key(s).

@R_Blue - I'd actually agree with TFH!! You have a cooling system constriction, so I'd suggest (a) Flushing the radiator (b) Checking the thermostat hasn't broken up and left debris in the water galleries and/or top hose. Check the mixture if using petrol, and get the lpg properly set up.

I think "variable service" was only available with the oil quality sensor, and AFAIK that was never installed on any Fabia 1.

Which part of the alternate name "frost plug" is confusing you?

I have, and been alerted by the sound of tyres on rumble strip or cats eyes.

Make sure the new pipe is proof against E10 fuel!

Pine Martens are at the extreme southern edge of their range in Northern Greece (source Wikipedia).

OK. You realise that the ignition switch is a key operated multi-position switch (off, accessories on (eg radio), ignition on (alternator and oil pressure lights on if engine not running) and a spring-loaded starter on position (starter motor runs while key held in this position). As I understand you, you have no power/function on any of the switched circuits and that pretty much has to be a failure in the ignition switch (not the key barrel, the actual switch), the live feed (usually the centre electrode), or a totally flat battery!