KenONeill

Actually, they should just tax Scalextric cars for their mass, and also for their electricity at the same equivalent rate per kWh as HC cars get stuck with.

It could be the headlamp stalk. Particularly if the dip works when first switched on, but dies the first time you switch back from main to dip.

That can happen when the alternator isn't charging properly.

That's another mistake; you should charge it by driving at about 50mph for an hour so.

Not had the adblue system mapped out.

Enough said I think.

It's technically possible, in that LED units that fit are manufactured. Unless you're fitting them to projector light shells, it does risk dazzling oncoming traffic and may break motor vehicle lighting laws for your country.

With a BEV, we call this a "battery" (strictly an accumulator but still), and I'm afraid that this is exactly what it does: Store (electrical) energy, waiting for it to be converted into kinetic energy by using the vehicle.

I have, once, after 3 hours in a motorway traffic jam, stop going at 0 to 10 mph.

I was wondering about "because they're red tinted bulbs?" too.

Yes, and? I mean, when you turn the AC on, you also start one of the radiator fans.

Well, a bad coil pack is not the only possible cause of a misfire. You need a better mechanic than me to advise you further though.

Yes: a break in the wiring to the driver's door, probably inside the rubber bellows in the jamb, and needing a continuity test to confirm.

@Murdockman @ruida_silva - I agree about the DPFectomy.

This is why some of us are pedants. If you ask me about adjusting the handbrake, see #2 above; OTOH is you asked me about setting up new cables, that's a whole other question...

@sealover1 - Kewel. I see it worked for you. Now, on the assumption that your engine is a 1.9tdi variant, it will run for years with bad glowplugs, and the worst effect you'll notice is a bit of white smoke for a few seconds on a cold start in Winter.

Stop shouting! Well, I've changed the battery, which involves disconnecting both terminals and the ICE came back about 3s after I switched the ignition back on.

Yes and no. Yes in that you need radio "keys" to remove the head unit. No in that the code for the original fit ICE is stored in the convenience ECU and read from there if required when you switch the ignition on. This almost always works, even after the battery has been disconnected or the ICE removed and replaced.

So take it to an independent specialist rather than a Skoda main stealer!

You'll need to join Freedom to be allowed to sell stuff on here.

Well, it's your choice. I've got a mate who's a taxi driver and reckons it's worth 5mpg on a Superb TDi in town driving. 80_000 miles in 3 years and the only part he's had to replace is the battery.

This reads like a bad earth issue, but I don't know if that's possible with CanBUS. If it is, it needs a good auto electrician, not a Skoda main stealer, to resolve it.

It's "self-adjusting". You should be able to get it to tighten up by:- Stop on level ground and engine off Apply foot brake as hard as you can and hold it on Now, with the foot brake on, attempt to uproot the handbrake lever Release handbrake and repeat. Release handbrake then foot brake Reapply handbrake and note shorter travel.

Light right foot, and think ahead. It will give you better economy regardless of engine option and mileage done.

Never driven a Furbie, but there are places on the A87 through Skye where I know it felt like the road was carrying out detail steering of my Octy.