KenONeill

Well, on that general context, I'd been helping (actually helping, not "6YO helping") my dad with the car since I was tall enough to see over the front wings. Not relevant to Skodas, but engine running is the correct way to check the oil level on a dry sump car.

Yeah, those are goosed. That sort of edge sipe wear I'd associate with specific makes rather than with a geometry issue.

So apparently I am not "most people" then. I think we maybe knew that?

Tv taking a long time to do something can be a comment on the producer. Where did this debris actually come from? And why did it "get" 2 of my 3 least favourite drivers? Before the third one brake locked himself to last place...

Unpleasant ones for the guy from the Skid Solo cartoons, Verstappen and indeed Hamilton.

Same situation with Citroen. But you tell people who want to slag Skoda off that lot, they'll not believe you.

Leak in rear washer pipe above pollen filter when washer motor activated.

OK, I've never had a pompe duse, but that seems high. I'm more used to diesels idling at 800 to 850.

Well, you are the one who implied that the filler hole shows the oil level, rather than trace from the last refill/top-up.

Ok, you didn't say that, but you do imply that the a/c switches in and out of recirc. It doesn't. The only thing that keeps "outside the car" out near permanently is the pollen filter. And even that doesn't work if you want to let people or stuff in or out of the car.

If you've believed 12 impossible things this morning, why not finish off with breakfast at Milliways, the restaurant at the end of the Universe? Seriously, if you have recirc "permanently on" the car will switch it off without telling you, so you don't pass out from oxygen deprivation!

Yeah, that's a scrape mark, but there's no new oil thereabouts. There is some around (1) though. Check engine oil using the dipstick, not the filler hole , and also check the gearbox oil level. As to the videos, load them to youtube, and copy those URLs to Briskoda.

Aka the lambda sensor.

UK armed forces are obsessed with headline mpg figures, rather than what cars actually give driven flat out everywhere,

Well, it's not unknown to get water pump shaft leaks on those sorts of hours. If the cambelt (not chain) has to come off to change the pump, it would be worth replacing the belt kit at the same time, because the extra cost is mostly parts, and less than the labour.

@Smellysocks - Well, the trip computer on some models records trip average speed, but that resets every time you switch the engine off for two hours, and doesn't record time spent in stationary traffic. It also records run hours, but re-zeros itself every 99:59, or earlier if you use the reset button, so I'd doubt it.

You actually think I should indicate twice, every time I want to straight line a corner?

No. That's when the Furbie changed from a 5x100 hub to a 5x112.

I'd be more interested in run hours than mileage, particularly if the leak is around the pump shaft.

You've cracked something. Examine the sump and gearbox, looking for a fresh oil film on one or both.

Continuity checked or just looked at? You need to continuity check this wiring.

Unless you use recirc, and spend hours rebreathing you own used air, the same pollution will come in through windows and/or the ventilation system.

Well, clear down the codes, and then see which, if any, of them recur. I've had loads of codes from more or less everything caused by a sticky alternator clutch pulley sticking "open", leading to low charge. The pulley was replaced, and none of the codes recurred after being cleared.

No, not least because you get different front springs for the 1.6 petrol, 1.8T and 1.9D engines, since they have different weights, and there is no information in your personal details, your OP, or the picture (nice car though) as to which engine or trim level you have. The RS has shorter springs than the Classic, Ambiante, Elegance or L&K trim levels.

After some thought:- I'd agree with @VanhireBoys that one likely issue is with the aerial. Likely enough that it's worth checking that it's properly screwed in first, and if that doesn't work, try a borrowed mast. You mention having an aerial booster. Check that it has power! DAMHIKT!