KenONeill

What your video shows is axial clearance between the turbine wheel and its casing. End float is how much the turbo rotor can move along the axis if you push-pull the end of it.

You don't need to push the clutch pedal to the "stop", ever. Do your ankles not flex?

Why would it? The cambelt is a service item for sure, and the pulley, tensioner and water pump are treated as service items because their typical actual service life is about 1.5 that of the cambelt. I can't see any need to disturb the head.

£350 for Gates kit, water pump and labour. If it was a full kit and it's been in under 2 years, you may have a full claim against the installer.

OK, did they change the full timing kit and the water pump or just the belt and pump?

Well, mine was technically a failed tensioner, but the result was the same (camshaft stopped turning, and pistons on exhaust and compression strokes pushed valves into camshaft...)

If you're dead lucky, just a bent valve or 4. If not, it could be a full set of valves, a broken camshaft, 4 chipped piston, 4 bent con rods, a bent crankshaft and even some smashed camshaft journals. You are rather asking us to guess here.

Also @ChrisMG - This is relevant to how the fans should operate.

Exactly; you'd have paid about half that at an indy specialist, and that would save another £35 in VAT.

I do believe that you are firmly attached to a plane surface by an helical inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder. You do in fact have to butcher the door card.

@ChrisMG - That sound plausible, in which case the question is as to whether your fan motors have failed or the thermoswitches that control them have failed "dead". Try giving the fans a direct feed from the battery to the fan and back to earth. If they spin then, the issue is the switches, and if they don't it's the fan motors.

That's what I thought. "Coast" strikes me as being a step backwards, because older manual cars actually shut the fuel off completely if you close the throttle with the engine above 1_400rpm. Whether you can reengage gear with pedal application is neither here nor there if the car is trying to be simply rather less clever than a good driver by idling the engine unnecessarily.

As I'm reading it, @CajoLajo is saying that the 1-2 change is slower than the others, rather than "jerky". Now I thought that the 1-2 change should be slower than the higher ones, for maximum change smoothness across the box as a whole.

The bit where the engine is missing? I've a vague notion, but that's engine dependent.

Kewel. I still think the actual expansion of work done and parts used is helpful though.

So the engine should be idling rather than [fuel off and using the vehicle mass/speed to keep turning over].

I go that, and was allowing for labour to swap the bumper off and on, a new radiator, and a coolant refill.

Thank goodness for that! The comment about roundabouts was because pushing round them is the usual cause of edge wear with correct geometry.

Ok, for sure there's something wrong there. Actually probably several somethings. Even with dead glowplugs, a 1.9TDi usually fires inside about 3s, with at worst a puff of white smoke that lasts maybe 5s, and it idles around 850rpm give or take the thickness of the tacho needle. So I'd start by checking the voltage draw of the glowplugs when first switched on but not started. I'd also get someone who really knows about diesel systems, like a Bosch engineer, or, if you happen to live in Yorkshire, Feather Diesel, to look at the idle control. Do NOT waste your money on a VAG main stealer.

Well, you can either follow the VCDS and my earlier diagnosis and explanation, or you can start throwing parts and money at the car. Your call.

I'd have thought so, particularly since I mostly descend hills with the engine "leaning gently" on the car at maybe 5% throttle opening, which is just too much for the fuel cutoff to actually work, although the car would slow gently on engine braking with the throttle fully closed.

Well, not unless you were paying main stealer labour rates.

Re points 1-4, go to a different dealership!

Yes. You asked someone to find a '17" space saver for me because I can't'! Complaining because the immediate response is "there is no such thing" is rude. Doubly so when the respondent makes several helpful suggestions and observations.

And that says to me that they've put the camber worse out than it was when they started. How much did they pay you for training their operators? NB camber and/or tracking can cause edge wear anyplace. Pushing an FWD chassis hard through roundabouts sometimes causes OSF outer edge wear, so that would be a red herring here I think.