KenONeill

Er, relying on an electroniccy system rather than a pressure gauge makes me question the operator's competence.

I'd agree with @Wino about this. I don't know Swedish law, but in the UK you could get the AC regassed for under UK£80. Or an AC fault diagnosed for free by the regasser.

Not easy, although you do have all the parts. You need to swap the engine, gearbox, driveshafts, ideally the front brakes and hub carriers, all the engine peripherals including ECU, engine wiring loom, turbo, fans, manifolds, injection (they're different systems although the blocks are the same)... If you mean the same thing as me by the (front) subframe, it would be way easier to take the good subframe out of the 110 and put it in the PD.

Yes, but not surprising since:- It's a diesel and they all tend to sound a "bit tappety". You're missing the engine top cover (first thing I noticed, before even hitting play).

There's no such thing. Do you mean a Lauren & Klemens (often abbreviated to L&K)?

Importing anything from anywhere has become more awkward post WrecksIt, if the exporter will deal with a UK buyer at all.

It works better in standardised economy tests than on actual roads.

Well, there's this stuff called "5 minute epoxy glue"...

Well, I don't think a 4mm change in offset will matter much if at all. But will the 17"s fit over your brakes?

Likewise; it's more likely for a bad plug to eat a coilpack, and it is possible for a new plug to also be bad. My experience across all the sets of plug my meatspace friends and I have replaced says that about 1 plug in 1_000 is bad; I make that 1/1_000_000_000_000 that you'd get 4 bad plugs.

Ferry nuff, but if you're looking for a charcoal grey carpet to replace the mucky cream one in a vRS, some Elegance have the one you want, and some L&K have a hearing aid beige carpet.

If we're looking down that sort of route, heat wrap or ceramic coat on the exhaust manifold and downpipe, but I don't know how possible either of those are in Greece.

Addition inline, italic.

Yeah. If I'm not in a hurry at all I'm happy to chillax, if I'm really in a rush I get assertive, but what I find most fun is trying to average 59mph between abated limits without actually exceeding 60.

Well, yes, in principle, but as I say, get it wrong and you brick the car.

I make this 999 manual cars and 726 slushboxes.

Well, the only thing you need to get better economy is a lighter right foot then. Seriously, take 10% off your highway speed, and use maybe 80% throttle instead of 90%, and lift and coast into bends and you could be looking at 10% to 20% better economy without risking bricking your motor.

Well, to me plugs 1 and 3 look Ok, 2 looks very sooty and 4 maybe a bit sooty. Have you checked the injectors? If you have VCDS you're looking for the duty cycle, and it should be around the same for all 4 injectors, and under 90% for preference.

A shop.

That strikes me as a feature, not a problem!

A good and honest brokerage. They will either find you a decent quote or tell you there's no such thing.

Er, that's only an issue if you use an aerial ripper and panel scratcher. And why would you when you can get a hand car wash or a snow foam and jet wash for £5 to £10 (UK)?

In English, we'd normally call that an "oil cooler", but that's just semantics.

Hi @ChrisMG , Ok, this is going to sound a bit like a repeat, but check all the vacuum lines and crankcase ventilation lines, particularly in the places like the lower side of the line to the rocker cover where you can't see it but need to feel, and feel any fabric reinforced lines to see if they collapse when you squeeze them one handed. This means that they have collapsed internally and can stop the engine breathing, just like you describe.

The screen dumps I'm seeing are "narrative entries", not fault codes.