KenONeill

No, not "exactly", unless you're claiming that you know better than someone who was actually there.

Comments about "the Stevenage gangsta' " etc, are a comment on the USian gangsta rappa accent that Lewis sometimes affects (verb form from noun affectation).

@glasgow lower_bound - higher_bound means "between those 2 values". Beyond that, I think you're quoting advertising values for a number of different engines (and/or body styles) for the SE Tech trim level.

What makes you think it's actually using more fuel? Once mine has warmed up, if it's in gear and revving above idle, the fuel is shut off completely when the thottle is closed. If I was to declutch, it would use idle fuel.

Fairly sure they stay on on mine, and it can sit for several weeks and fire nae fuss, nae bother.

Deutsches Insitut fur Normung. The German member of the ISO. There are about 30_000 DIN standards so a more detailed answer would need the standard number.

Really? I've seen them turn on for ~5s under a bridge, or when a car was parked in dense shadow then driven North in bright sunlight.

@ManlyJPanda - The release lever is not the greatest of designs. I suggest you also apply copper or lithium grease to the locking catch fairly reguarly.

I'd normally expect to find that name on the spark plugs. But only if they were Champion brand spark plugs obviously. Also I don't understand your obsession with resistance; most people are more concerned with voltage and wattage since that's what drives the circuits.

Dunno; I'm used to gauges being calibrated rather than just pretty colours. But 90 is the normal position when the engine has warmed up, and the gauge is programmed such that it sits at that position until the engine temperature goes over 100.

Why do you think this size changes width significantly between deflated and inflated on a specified rim width? Because that's what I think you're presently saying.

Doing an engine swap like 1.4 8v to 16v requires an expensive engine, and a fair degree of auto mechanics expertise; in fact I think you'd really want what we call a "car cassette", which you make by cutting the engine donor through the windscreen pillars and the floor, to make sure you have the engine, and all its electronics and wiring. It would be faster and cheaper for you to swap your car for a 16v engine one, with a cash adjustment either way to reflect both car's values.

I guess you've never watched a race at the Hunboringring either?

If that's what you got out of what he said/meant then he's very bad at explaining stuff, talking male bovine faeces, or both. It's more like if you do "driving Miss Daisy" or "Carlos Fandango" techniques, then they exaggerate how you already drive.

@yellski Look, I know it's your screen name, but will you stop shouting? BTW the first things I'd do with this sort of problem are:- Check fluid levels. Find a garage that can explain what they're talking about in terms you can understand!

@Rocketfella - I should explain that, the way the electronics work, the fan would cut in high before the gauge would move above 90C.

OK. Hint - you can't rely on 2 posts on a forum like this that sorts by date and time being together, never mind in a specific order.

@FlyingGecko @kenfowler3966 You are both lacking in experience here. I've seen bidirectional tyres with no orientation marking on them, asymmetrics with one side marked "outside", and directionals (EG Toyo Proxes T1-R) with arrows on the sidewall showing the direction of rotation.

On which car?

Can you re-write your OP in standard English @Mattheb ? Flow of consciousness can be an interesting way to write a novel, but not a fault description!

Yes, but more to the point, does the temperature gauge show the car going onto heat?

You trust a fleabay part description !?

If the car is being freshly serviced, see e-roottoot above, and ask the dealer to put it onto fixed interval servicing which answers (4). I think the service schedule and items are available on-line, along with the service log. I think the DQ-200 is "filled for life" according to Skoda. Of course that may mean the "unserviced life of the transmission" rather than the life of the car. Based on information from ZF Transmissions, I'd suggest changing the ATF in any self-shifting transmission every 40_000 miles.

Cheers for that mate.

@J.R. Your argument works for a full race car in a class where you can change tyre size, gear ratio(s) and/or CWP. I don't believe this is the case with an Octavia, so the controlling question on whether or not you spend out on a 6-speed gearbox is whether or not the car has sufficient power to rev out in 5th. There are some big power 1.8t engines that probably do rev out in 5th, but the 6 speed box adds a longer 6th gear to the 5 speed, rather than closing up the intermediate gears.