D.FYLAKTOS

Mine worked for few years and suddenly stopped so i don't care about it at all because i don't use it. In SP-EL the price is high, does worth to spend so much money plus shipping and installation? I don't know for Cz but for GR definitely not. 😃

https://en.skoda-club.net/manuals.php?ddlb_category=11&ddlb_model=9 I have some other links but not now available.

Here is a list from Mahle https://www.euspares.co.uk/manufacturer/mahle-original/temperature-switch-radiator-fan-10434 click and red the details for each one Switch-on point [°C]: Shut-off Point [°C]: Here in Greece (Hot climate) we use 80-85 C although some owners with older models use 75-80 C (in the second case the radiator fan will work more often but in shorter time)

This is what Zimmermann suggest for my Felicia.

My latest Cold start were one click better than previous, maybe the ECU remembered the good old times with NGK lambda and Champion spark plugs. After the trip i made another Gas station pump test. 8] 360,3 Km distance and 25,08 ltr fuel which means 6,96 ltr / 100 km or 40.58 Uk mpg. The results could be better (yes better) because the air pressure on tires was one click lower and i had some hard traffic the latest kilometres before arrive at home. Now after refuelling i will make at least 100 Km on city traffic and after another gas station pump test let's hope that i will close this chapter.

I think the time has come, a separate ''sub-forum'' must be created with a title something like ''Ask the Master'' or ''The God of mechanics speaks'' or ''the knowledge is ME" ,where the One and Only-Best in the West will give (after the member begging on his knees for answer and pay his respects) an answer which will not doubted for any kind of reason! No matter if the ancient Greek legislator Solon (639-559 BC) said ''“Γηράσκω αεί διδασκόμενος” which can translated ''I am getting older always learning" here we have the exception which is a World phenomenon. So, from now on ALL the Skoda owners in countries with warm climate must prevent for the radiator fan running too often. Why? Because when the radiator fan in high environment temperatures works often will damage your engine-make it overheated or explode etc, is that clear? Yes. Any doubts? No..who would dare after all?

I asked you many times to put me on your Foe list and you didn't had the guts to do it, so here is your chance, for once in your life act like a Man and do it. If you ask ''why you don't do it?'' the answer is ''i have done it in the past but you still made quotes in my posts'', so let's do it now together and case closed. Somehow or other you have turned 99,99% of the members here against you with that ''smart @ss'' attitude plus you do not admit your mistakes. You are just a simple common mortal as all of us, you will never-ever be something special and you will never-ever you receive some recognition-distinction.

For decades the Bosch Household appliances (washing machine, refrigerator, etc.) were made by a local company PITSOS but many people thought that they were manufactured 100% in Germany. As for vented discs i will ask some other repair shops next week IF a pair of 20mm can fit in my stock calipers or the whole project does not worth the effort, it's a pity that when i had the money i didn't had the opportunity to search for a 4 piston calipers.

Zimmermann are German too, thus i hesitate.

So you don't suggest to buy brembo discs next time? Any thoughts about Zimmermann?

Today all the Skodians learn a lesson: ''when you live in a country with hot climate the radiator fan of your car must don't run too often'' Any questions? No, OK then.

I am living in a Hot climate country and the "too often" (especially in traffic) is desirable, so why Skoda must "prevent" it?

I had in the past an adaptor before the thermostat sensor and a gauge connected so i could read the coolant temperature before reach the thermostat. This is my centre console.

OBD 11 is a device which works with our plain OBD Felicia port https://obdeleven.com/en/home/187-stand-alone-0758277987851.html

There are many options, here is an Example but don't trust the cheap ones. You can not go ''too much wrong" but it's easy to understand when you are in trouble, for example here that we have hot climate you can easy see the needle goes above the 95 'C mark and if passes that you have to stop and check some things. It's not normal to drive with temperature around 100 'C, soon or later you will pay the price for this.

Basically what are you trying to do? You have some sort of problem? No fancy applications and smartphone for us the Felicians.

Update: Before the trip i made a Flow Meter Correction to the TC-6 by 2 clicks +, the correction has a range from -8% till +7% trying to match the results from the Gas Station pump test to the indications of the TC-6, i took some measurements via photo and notes. I didn't pay attention in purpose to the timer for all the cold starts of this trip, i just waited few seconds and start driving the car. So here is the AVERAGE fuel consumption in two moments of that trip: In between i took a note of TOTAL fuel consumption, i had 10,6 lt for 162,3 Km distance which means 6,53 ltr/100 Km or 43.25 Uk Mpg which is very close of what the TC-6 shows. This is while i am on highway, the indication is similar although some times i saw 6,4 or 6,5 ltr when the traffic increased approaching to Athens. This is the TOTAL fuel consumption, 22,7 ltr for 349,5 Km distance which means 6,49 ltr/ 100 Km or 43.52 Uk Mpg. Keep in mind that that there were 2 persons inside, the tank was full of gasoline (when i began) plus 5 baggages which means sort of heavy combination. If i was alone with lighter load the results could be better. I am i agony of what the Gas Station pump will show in few days, if the results be so good as the above then i will be relieved after so many months of suffering and anxiety.

I made a cold start test with my father's car (Nissan 2006 model) and i saw that it needed about 3.30-4 minutes to come to the proper idle rpm level so i must complain so much. The cold starts shown an tiny improvement in the country (maybe the NGK lambda helped) but i have to wait to see in city environment what's going to happen. A similar here in Greece is ''salt and water" (which means like ''all gone and forgotten'')

First of all i had to work for some kilometres and various conditions with the combination of factory Champion spark plugs and NKG lambda sensor identical to factory one. IF (i say IF) the results are excellent then (and only then) i will give a second chance to iridium, otherwise i will give them as a gift to someone else, keep in mind that i have an old design motor (Euro II) and yes the iridium rev up better that platinum BUT the cold starts plus the city traffic fuel consumption get worst (Bosch lambda sensor).

I can make gear changes with no problem but the clang sound (plus the idea that is not buttoned 100% in the rod as it should be) makes me nervous.

The T part is unbuttoned that's why the end of the shift rod is visible in the photo. One push with a lever, it buttons and everything looks fine but after few weeks "clang" again.

No problem so far with gear changes, the only issue is the "clang" noise while moving the stick left-right in N gear.

I am on 1st May vacations, so far for 170km distance the new NGK lambda and the Champion spark plugs combination work petfect (as for higway-mountain route fuel consumption) but i have to wait some days more. Bosch lambda sensor was a big mistake, i lost money in purchase plus in waisted fuel.

The ''real world'' inside the repair shop often is different than a blueprint and many times ETKA codes make things worst, keep in mund the mess with lambda sensors B C E (with the same prefix) and what this cost me in money ant time. I suggest for some wire or a tie-wrap as a temporary solution till the new part comes and the mechanic said no, i wish i had a lift available to make some repairs by myself. The new part has been bought from ebay.Uk, all i have to do is to wait 2 weeks while hearing on parking the ''clang'' noise from the gearshift rod.

No26 is like sponge, never seen it before. No27 is present, i saw it, has dropped down in the base of the T and it's not visible in my photos. The ring and the slot inside the cavity are one, posted separetely in one e-shop photo maybe for informational purposes, here are two examples: The No28 (the T) looks like bronze but i think is alloy with steel.