D.FYLAKTOS

Some more.

The Haynes is for a driver that just wants to know the basics (of the basics) and do only few things, if you want to go further does not help you. Does these attachments help?

I remembered this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491645-can-i-make-a-modification-to-my-felicia-13-filter-case/ when i saw that.

In Greece those huge tailpipes we call them "stove pipes" 😆. You can hear their "bouaaaa" sound from blocks away.

The stock is 42 or 45mm?

I have a custom exhaust from A to Z, few years back when i changed the muffler (the inside metal partitions have been destroyed) the mechanic asked me ''do you want to make it sound?'' but i replied NO because i know that this in a trip is a nightmare for the ears. On the other hand i am curious about the dimensions: 95x55mm 110x58mm 120x65mm 135x70mm The difference is in sound only?

In the past i had a Remus muffler installed in my Felicia but after some years got a hole and i send it to recycle. While searching for Sport mufflers in CZ stores (the phrase in Google is Sportovní výfuk ŠKODA Felicia ) i found these: https://www.tuningshop.cz/sportovni-vyfuky-ultersport-skoda-felicia-1994-2001/ My first impression was the price, extremely high. https://tuning.autodoplnky.cz/vyfuky-ulter-sport/sportovni-vyfuky-na-konkretni-vozy/smid-3904/ According to the description: This exhaust is intended only for the following engines: 1.3 40/43/50kW, 1.6 55kW. It is equipped with E-homologation, which is valid in all EU countries. The exhausts of the Polish company Ulter are made of noble steel protected by black coating, the ends are stainless steel. They are made precisely for a specific type and engine of the car, they stand out for their extended service life, characteristic sporty sound and increase engine performance. Precisely specified for each car, assembly is easy. The manufacturer guarantees quality - ISO 9001:2000 certificate. https://www.laityng.cz/ladene-vyfuky-felicia/vyfuk-felicia-felrov1/ Especially in this i saw the dimensions options: 95x55mm 110x58mm 120x65mm 135x70mm 1) What's the gain to justify the high price? 2) The shorter the muffler the less is the torque in low rpm but there is a HP gain in high rpm?

Maybe was one click loose maybe someone by mistake pull a bit the cable from inside the engine bay. By the way: before i put it back i have added in the past a light coat of glue or even strong silicone between the black cover and the grey factory dashboard because no matter how tight the screws are sometimes is getting loose and you hear crackle noises.

Low-Medium or High strength?

One day i will show you my ashtray-project, has 4 buttons and one switch on the front surface. @nta16 : i kept my radio-cassette till 2022 in my car, everyone was thinking that i was crazy. @vucko1011 : Oh God NO ! R.I.P Sellotejp.

These are not ''chemical experiments". New wheels-tyres were in the factory standards, new air filter, new discs-calipers-hoses were in factory standards. ECU chip were from a programmer from England.

My A/C is Alex, added later by the local dealer. 2 times those relays caused me problems (1st time the mechanic slack and spray them and the 2nd time change one of them) with the radiator fan, maybe was a coincidence but immediately after the fan started work again.

Felica 1.3 had already made a space for 2 speakes in the central console. https://nemigaparts.com/img/catalogs/etka/st/101863500.png https://m1.secondhandapp.at/2.0/5b27b219ccf1ea406c3fa31e?height=1024&width=1024 Even for the 1.6 can be found. https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/228925056#gallery

I never took risks putting different specifications fluids in Steering wheel oil-Brake fluid-Gear oil-Coolant-Engine oil. I have changed for example light bulbs (No Skoda) or added temporary an additive to Coolant or added noise-heat insulation etc but i don't like make ''Chemistry experiments" (in this case with DOT 5). Since i don't have extra money to spend on repairs and no time to do things like ''let's put some 0W-30 engine oil for few months do see how will work" or ''let's use plain water instead of Coolant to see the difference in performance" etc i stick with what the manual says. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/?app=core&module=system&controller=content&do=find&content_class=forums_Topic&content_id=512262&content_commentid=5752139 I don't know which is Fake.

Amazing ! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2023_05/64297cb0-b348-46f7-a2d6-7564acf124d1photo.thumb.jpeg.1ba8083cd3c3712791494788c35050cc.jpeg A fuse box wouldn't be better? Moisture,rain etc can cause you problems.

Beneath that cover are 2 relays, open it remove them and spray with contact cleaner (with No Oil). In the past one of these relays caused me problems, the 1st day made a delay for the radiator to start and the 2nd day didn't let the radiator start at all and i had an overheating.

Why would you want to make your car a "lab animal"? The Brake Fluid Is Black: What Does It Mean? If you open the car’s brake fluid reservoir and you notice black or brown fluid. So what happened to your car? We’re sorry to say that black brake fluid is a sign that your fluid is highly contaminated. When this happens, the braking system’s ability to pressurize is reduced and brake performance may be affected. Besides, black brake fluid means that the rubber gasket has deteriorated and the liquid in the tank is too old and needs to be replaced. In fact, it turns out that brake fluid contaminants are attacking the rubber seals and washers. The black color in the liquid is the carbon particles from the rubber pads. Why does brake fluid turn black? Many drivers said that black brake fluid is caused by its age. It’s a true opinion. Like other fluids, the brake fluid will degrade after a long period and it needs to be replaced. After a while, your brake fluid will accumulate enough contaminants and cause the color to begin to change. This changeover will change from clear/yellow to a darker yellow, and when brake fluid is brown or black, this can seriously affect the braking system. Inside the brake system is the brake fluid tank. From this reservoir, brake fluid travels its way from the cylinder to the car’s wheels. If you frequently step on the brake, the brake fluid will get contaminated faster. And even if you don’t drive as hard, as its feature, your brake fluid will still build up contaminants over time. The second cause of discoloration in brake fluid is the deterioration of some parts in the brake system such as rubber brake lines, the gasket on the auxiliary cylinder, or the wheel. Because brake fluid is corrosive. Even though brake system components are designed to resist such corrosion. If not serviced or cared for properly, these parts will show signs of wear and tear. At this time, the microscopic pieces and soot of the rubber will follow the path to penetrate into the brake fluid. Discoloration as well as reducing the effectiveness of the fluid. https://carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/brake-fluid-is-black/

From another source. VW SKODA TRW Wheel Brake Cylinder BWD268

So let's read what the Mini Cooper drivers (not Americans) say about it: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/275028-dot-5-brake-fluid/ Among them:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4724682-help-finding-seals-compatible-with-dot-5-brake-fluid-please.html Selection of EPDM Elastomer in Brake Hose Application for Improved Brake System Performance https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2010-01-1885/ Here is a ''study'' ,Rubber fluid compatability reference https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/O-Ring-Division-Literature/ORD-5700.pdf I don't know if Model: Škoda Forman LX - W/LPG Year: 1993 has EPDM.

Strenghts: 1) It has a high boiling point since it does not absorb water. Therefore, there's no so-called wet boiling point. 2) Doesn't absorb moisture. 3) Doesn't remove paint. 4) The viscosity is more stable over the extremes of temperature. 5) With the exception of some formulations used in external boots, silicone brake fluid is compatible with all standard brake components. Drawbacks: 1) It's hard to pour without entraining air bubbles-hence an application will generally have a softer, spongier pedal feel. 2) It doesn't absorb water, so any water already in the system accu-mulates in the lowest point of the system and stays there, causing rust. 3) Glycol fluids begin to compress near their boiling points, whereas silicone fluids begin to compress at around 300-350 degrees Fahrenheit. 4) Additives in the fluid can vaporize at comparatively moderate temperature, increasing the spongy feel. 5) Silicone fluids expand significantly when hot. 6) Silicone fluid is functionally incompatible with systems that have held glycol-based fluids for any length of time, requiring flushing and seal replacement (there are counter opinions on this, which state that the modern silicone formulations are in fact compatible with only a flushing, rather than a complete reseal). The actual DOT specification requires chemical compatibility, so as far as that goes, the two fluids won't cause reactions if used in the same system, but they certainly won't mix, either. 7) It's pretty much incompatible with anti-lock brakes because the silicone fluids tend to be more viscous, which can cause problems with the timing of the pulses that are intended to work with the thinner glycol-base fluid. This sometimes leads to damage of the ABS valving. The rapid pulsing necessary to anti-lock functions tend to cavitate the fluid, as the tiny bubbles collapse and coalesce into larger ones, and then collapse and reform into smaller ones. This tends to counteract the ABS effect and can diminish the actual effective braking. This condition also heats the fluid and can lead to even more sponginess and possible damage to the ABS controller. Thirdly, silicone brake fluid tends to foam when expressed from a small orifice under pressure, reducing its hydraulic effectiveness greatly. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/whats-the-negative-of-silicone-dot-5-brake-fluid.185724/

Few months back i changed the brake fluid, one mechanic insisted that the systhem ''pump-start draw of old fluid-simultaneously add new fluid-after a while the whole system has the new fluid with no bubbles'' is ''new'' and ''better'' than other ways. I never convinced that this kind of flow can remove any remains of air from all the system. I said ''NO'' and i left, i went to another giving him strictly orders to do the change with ''Old fashion way'' which means 2 person, one is pressing many times the pedal and the other degassing etc.

I am not sure that @R_Blue has car with ABS Model: Škoda Forman LX - W/LPG Year: 1993 I have seen it in the Army, the previous driver (soldier) mixed Hydraulic oil (red colour) with other and the final result was something like beige. Every NCO was pointed this to us plus everybody cursed that soldier for what he has done. The door was working but it was a matter of time before they ''flush'' that mix and replace it wirh the proper (because everybody knows the concequenses if something is broke). DOT 4, DOT4 racing, DOT5.1 yes but DOT5 for us here means ''Military'' mainly https://dot5brakefluid.com and not every day use for moder cars.

I wouldn't take that risk, the Dot 5 must not mixed with Dot 4. Can you "flush out" perfectly the whole system from Dot 4 before you turn to Dot 5? I wouldn't make my Felicia as "test animal" just to save some money from brake fluids changes. Is there a quarantee that your Dot 5 will last as long as you have your car? I am saying that because i have heard about "lifetime" and "no need to change them" steering wheel fluids even for coolants.

Are made from Brass?