Crasher

It was probably was doing a passive regen, if so soon it may ask you to do an active regen, follow the handbook if it does.

All quite normal, minor even

Whilst you are in Germany I would suggest picking up the springs by Suplex, they are the best and awkward to source here since Brexit. 5Q0 511 115 R would be a Suplex 39545 but they don't list the S although Eibach OE do, their number R19953 and also Bilstein OE 36-301874

What is the VIN? If it has done a few miles the rear bump stops could be deteriorating.

Which engine? That could suggest a failing crank speed sensor but on most engines it would stop. Do you have VCDS?

£3 ish old boy...😄

The bump stops will be shot and the top mounts a good idea.

If any bolt is released it MUST be replaced, all are TTY one time use only.

My text was slightly misleading when I said “which can double that” when it should have read “which can BE double that”… i.e. £2k not £1k, it is very labour intensive extremely time consuming work. If you have the time you could strip down a used unit and rebuild with all Powerflex bushes instead of new arms with rubber bushes. Taking all the stripped parts for powdercoating costs a lot but lasts.

Right in the middle but booked solid for a month minimum

18538 (P2106) - Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Power Limited due to Malfunction You need to be able to perform Basic Settings 060.

The pile of parts usually adds up to around £1k without and brakes or wheel bearings, the killer is the labour which can double that plus alignment so if it is DIY then we’ll worth the investment keeping an older car going.

We have done a LOT of full rebuilds on these PQ35/46 rear ends and to reduce downtime we often buy in a used system to rebuild. Cars with the ally hubs rather than cast iron are more stressful as the bolts rot solid in the ally and are a sketch to get apart. We have the frame powder coated and order in a big pile of Febi, Meyele, genuine and Sachs/Boge bits, build the unit up and fit it in a day. Induction heating a seized bolt in an ally hub

Without the trim, left is 1J0 201 655 F and right is 1J0 201 656 E, with the trim left is 1J0 201 653 J 1J0 201 654 F. The OE bolts are N 019 530 8.

What is the VIN? Ohh, sorry just notice the last post.

That could be the check valve in the pump or the BCM signal to the pump, without diagnostic equipment I would change the pump first.

Exhaust catalyst. If you look at the oil filler cap it has an over filling will damage the cat and the oil burning produces the same result. The engine won't suddenly fail,

Yes, major very expensive job. Eventually the oil will cause the cat to fail. A full exchange unit is nearly £8000 in the box never mind fitted.

Usually it is the resistor pack, the clue being max speed only working but you may have a failed motor as well or a blown fuse.

Petrol or Diesel?

I assume you mean the plug electrode is oil fouled? The EA888 is terrible for burning oil, for some odd reason the 1.8 is much worse than the 2.0, there is a redesigned piston which usually cures this but it is a lot of work.

If it has the electrically controlled mechanical water pump, it may be the fault.

Typical SAI pump failure, genuine they are daft money at £792.60 (part number 078 906 601 M) and even trade from ECP are over £300 so when mine went a few years ago I took a gamble on a £50 Chinese Max Speeding rods pump, it is barley audible and has worked faultlessly.

We have a DQ381 here in an S3 and it spat its output shaft tail bearing out, the bits went through the gearbox and wrecked everything, a complete write off. https://flic.kr/p/2oJp4Je

It is a LOT of work, I would say 3 days for an experienced grease monkey if the head WASN'T rebuilt as well. What is the VIN? Genuine th pistons are £274.20 each but should be available aftermarket. On top of the you would need a chain rebuild set, head gasket set, con rod bearing and a BIG pile of fasteners.