langers2k

The BCM (Body Control Module) controls the exterior lighting and is a 6"x6"x1" black box above the pedals in the drivers footwell. It has 3x 52 pin connectors in black, white and brown/beige. Given the number of bulbs out, it's almost certainly a power feed to the BCM rather than a fault in the BCM. The Haynes manual may term the BCM as the 'on-board power supply control unit' but I can't be sure. I'd be checking F16 and F26 in the engine bay fuse box - based on the 2011 owners manual I have here. I would expect one of them to show signs of corrosion, water ingress, overheating or maybe a microfracture... If I remember correctly, some older cars did have issues with water ingress to the fuse box causing similar issues

The current regs may require some kind of mechanical cable protection. So you may need an armored cable or some suitable conduit adding to protect the T+E.

My understanding is when you're in the house, there is likely a relatively high resistance between the person and earth so the potential shock current is quite low. Obviously this will vary with house construction, location within the house, floor coverings etc... A car would typically be outside and rain or damp conditions are common. That may cause the resistance to be lower leading to a higher potential shock current. I guess the regs are trying to cover the more dangerous scenario first? Just to point out, I'm not an electrician and have no formal training so my understanding may be flawed

@J.R. - have a google for PENS fault protection. Just for example: https://www.romatech.co.uk/blog/page/view/ev_charging_pen_fault_earth_rod edit: Second link that's pretty clear to me: https://www.mylights.co.uk/images/pdf/TruePEN-Explain-Doc.pdf

The very latest rSAP BT modules was 3C8035730E which only supports 3G I'm afraid. There is no upgrade/future path to support 4G or 5G networks. Once 3G networks turn off, you'll need to revert to hands-free mode and stop using rSAP mode.

I think the UK models do... As you mention Euros I expect you're based somewhere else so there might be differences in spec.

I use the individual drive mode and set the sound to 'eco' which is quiet enough for me It doesn't - you'll need a diagnostic tool like VCDS or OBDeleven to change the setting to zero.

I don't think it's unusual for the fuse box to be behind the glove box, it'll be the same for other VAG cars and it certainly is on some Fords. That being said, I can't remember the last time I blew a fuse so I don't see it as a big issue

A proper LSD would be the mechanical solution and is always 'on'. I'd consider the VAQ to be an electro-mechanical solution. It can adjust the amount of pressure in the clutch pack and therefore transfer varying levels of torque depending what the control module deems necessary. - Sometimes it'll be completely 'off' and the diff will function like an traditional open diff - Sometimes it'll be completely 'on' and will act more like a mechanic LSD (the VAQ does have a limit to the torque it can transfer) - Most of the time it'll probably be between the two depending on driving conditions and driving style Different driving modes will change the VAQ operating parameters. In sport mode, I'd expect it to have more preload and react more quickly/aggressively to help with dynamic driving demands. XDS is indeed software, it basically brakes the inside (rear?) wheel to help control understeer. EDL is another software solution (electronic diff lock) which relies on the brakes to slow a spinning wheel and transfer torque through an open diff. I would expect a non-VAQ vRS to use both EDL and XDS/XDS+ to help control understeer. Obviously when applying the brakes to control the car, it will slow down fractionally. I think it was worth 8.5s around the Nürburgring but I doubt that translates well into a supermarket trip Random video that might help explain what a VAQ is:

Sounds like you might need a better OBD tool... If the engine light has been on, I'd expect a stored code to say why

With decent tyres the front end grip is super impressive for a relatively powerful FWD car and in my opinion, the VAQ is helping to make a good amount of that grip. Roundabouts are great fun as you can really get on the power early for good drive out... For me, the spec of the 245 'edition' was definitely worth it over the later 'normal' 245 or 230: - I use the heated seats most drives at the moment - Powerfold mirrors should have been standard for all the vRS and I would have retrofitted them otherwise - An added bonus I didn't know about was auto-dimming wing mirrors which are great for M/A road night driving - Front sensors are handy and work great with a retrofitted OEM reversing camera It was after the initial covid round and before the used car market went crazy. There was a good amount of choice and most prices were pretty similar between models, the one I chose even had DCC fitted If possible, I'd suggest taking both a VAQ and non-VAQ car out for a spin and see how they feel.

Pretty sure only pre-FL 230 and FL 245 got the VAQ, if it's a pre-FL 220 or FL 230 then it won't have a VAQ... The VAQ is basically a hydraulically operated clutch pack between the right hand drive shaft and differential cage. By adjusting the pressure on the plates, it can transfer torque across the front axle. A vRS (and other Octavia models) without VAQ will have 'EDL' which is a brake based system that applies braking force to the spinning wheel(s). If heated seats are on your list, maybe look for '67 or '18 plate 245's. When the 245 was first released the was an 'edition' spec with the following extras:

At a guess, the car shown above is brilliant silver? 2017 brochure lists the below, 2019 drops denim blue and cappuccino beige.

Both those systems require the vehicle speed so given the ABS sensors provide that data it's completely plausible. Ideally you should scan the car for fault codes as that'll give a clear picture of what the car thinks is wrong...

I'd guess that they've damaged the wiring to an abs sensor whilst doing the shocks... If it was just the normal lights after disconnecting the battery, I'd expect the lights to go out after a 100m or so.

Yup, Google play store 👍

There is a TPI regarding this issue as mentioned in this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/446755-new-rear-shock-absorbers-on-warranty

You probably need an account but the app will likely walk you through the process. No idea what kind of phone you have but you probably want this app: - Apple store: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/philips-hue-bluetooth/id1456604186 - Google play store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.signify.hue.blue&hl=en_GB&gl=US&pli=1

What SD card did you buy? Was it a Skoda/VW one designed for a MIB2...?

If I remember correctly, it depends how old the bulb is. Older ones need a hue hub to work Newer ones have bluetooth and can work without a hub.

For context, I have retrofitted a VC to my 2018 245 vRS so it should be pretty similar to yours. Both a new and used VC will need the following after installation: - component protection unlocking - coding - adaptions - immobiliser pairing - odometer correcting Adaptions can be copied from the old cluster. Coding is pretty similar but I think one or two bits needed to be flipped. CP and immo will need ODIS with an online subscription. Quick note regarding the odometer: - With a new cluster, you can just set the correct odometer reading. - With a used cluster, this is not possible... As far as I know, it's only possible to increase the odometer on a used cluster so make sure it has a lower mileage than your car! Most the mileage increase solutions will do the it at a certain MPH, the one I bought can do ~4000 miles per day... Physical side was super easy: - cover under the cluster pulls out - remove the two screws - pull the cluster out and remove the connector The trim piece under the cluster should be changed as it's a slightly different shape, part number 5E0857053B. If the MFSW buttons don't have a 'view' button, for an full factory fitted experience, they should also be changed, I used part number 3V0919719E (manual gearbox). For map display on the VC and radio logos etc, you'll need to add a MOST (fibre optic) between the VC and headunit/amp. There are a few extra coding changes to get it working afterwards.

Awesome, comparing the latest CSV with one I have here looks spot on. Glad to hear it's all working as expected too! While I appreciate the PayPal offer, I enjoy the challenge of figuring out what has been messed with so don't worry about it Instead, maybe consider helping support Briskoda by becoming a paid up member for a year: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

That CSV is so much easier to work with! New list of changes below but I've added your current value so you can double check before making changes They are almost identical to the above. Bit of an explanation of what each set are: - Leuchte0 and Leuchte1 will be the indicators, the dunkelphase will be part of your out of sync issue and them being used as DRL. - Leuchte2 and Leuchte3 changes will be making the sidelight/DRL flash and probably to power the LED bar you removed. - Leuchte8 and Leuchte9 look to be cornering fog lamps, I'd leave the lichtfunktion alone but the lampdefektbitpostition looks wrong. ENG116936-ENG115887-Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36-Dimming Direction EF 0 change from 'minimize' to 'maximize' ENG116936-ENG115882-Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36-Dimmwert CD 0 change from '35' to '0' ENG116936-ENG115876-Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36-Lichtfunktion A 0 change from 'not active' to 'Blinken links Hellphase' ENG116936-ENG115881-Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36-Lichtfunktion D 0 change from 'Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)' to 'not active' ENG116936-ENG115884-Leuchte 0 BLK VL B36-Lichtfunktion E 0 change from 'Blinken links Dunkelphase' to 'not active' ENG116937-ENG115906-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Dimming Direction EF 1 change from 'minimize' to 'maximize' ENG116937-ENG115901-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Dimmwert CD 1 change from '35' to '0' ENG116937-ENG115895-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Lichtfunktion A 1 change from 'not active' to 'Blinken rechts Hellphase' ENG116937-ENG115900-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Lichtfunktion D 1 change from 'Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)' to 'not active' ENG116937-ENG115903-Leuchte1BLK VRB20-Lichtfunktion E 1 change from 'Blinken rechts Dunkelphase' to 'not active' ENG116938-ENG115928-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimming Direction GH 2 change from 'minimize' to 'maximize' ENG116938-ENG115913-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion A 2 change from 'aktiv 100%' to 'Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)' ENG116938-ENG115914-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion B 2 change from 'not active' to 'Parklicht links (beidseitiges Parklicht aktiviert li & re)' ENG116938-ENG115925-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion G 2 change from 'Blinken links Hellphase' to 'not active' ENG116939-ENG115947-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimming Direction GH 3 change from 'minimize' to 'maximize' ENG116939-ENG115932-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion A 3 change from 'aktiv 100%' to 'Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht)' ENG116939-ENG115944-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion G 3 change from 'Blinken rechts Hellphase' to 'not active' ENG116944-ENG116558-Leuchte8FL LB39-Lampendefektbitposition 8 change from '4E' to '38' ENG116945-ENG116559-Leuchte9FL RB2-Lampendefektbitposition 9 change from '4F' to '42'

You can't import a CSV. Instead, it should be possible with a raw hex adaption map 👍 can't say I've ever tried to restore one though.

Your scan showed faults on the rear but not the front. Although there are intermittent and last happened 300-400km ago. I'd wait until the lights are working correctly before worrying too much about bulb out warnings. As I mentioned, quite a few light channels seem not to have a lamp type set which could cause issues. Just noticed two more channels I'd suggest you change at the same time as those above: ENG116944-ENG116558-Leuchte8FL LB39-Lampendefektbitposition 8 38 ENG116945-ENG116559-Leuchte9FL RB2-Lampendefektbitposition 9 42