langers2k

That's certainly not been the case for me... I've had sufficient build up of fluff in the USB-c port of my Pixel 5 that AA became unreliable. It once got so bad it wouldn't charge... I had to get a plastic ziptie, trim it to a point and tease the compressed fluff out of the USB-c port 😆 No need for a Samsung branded cable, any decent quality cable should be fine. Personally, I'm a fan of Anker cables as they seem to work well for me.

Pretty sure that folder should be called 'maps' rather than 'maps 2'? At least based on DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2010_V17.7z which I just downloaded to check the structure for you I'd try renaming it and running cleanmydrive again.

Remembered some search terms... Seems F16 for 'Central control unit, right main headlight, right rear light unit' is the common one to fail: - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444945-fuse-keeps-melting-in-engine-bay/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491362-anyone-else-had-this-fuse-melt-but-not-blow-might-need-an-engine-bay-fuse-box-for-an-fl-20-vrs/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/447376-skoda-superb-mk2-fuse-melting/

Random example to give you an idea of what it looks like, obviously the plugs would normally have wires coming out but they've been cut off

Neither mention PENS fault protection so yes, I'd expect both to carry a risk of electrocution in that circumstance. They probably count as portable appliances so are subject to different regs to a permanent wired EV charger. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much in a dry garage, it's not uncommon to find other metal bodied appliances like fridges or tumble driers in that area. If there is a power cut, make sure you unplug the charger from the wall first using only plastic parts

The BCM (Body Control Module) controls the exterior lighting and is a 6"x6"x1" black box above the pedals in the drivers footwell. It has 3x 52 pin connectors in black, white and brown/beige. Given the number of bulbs out, it's almost certainly a power feed to the BCM rather than a fault in the BCM. The Haynes manual may term the BCM as the 'on-board power supply control unit' but I can't be sure. I'd be checking F16 and F26 in the engine bay fuse box - based on the 2011 owners manual I have here. I would expect one of them to show signs of corrosion, water ingress, overheating or maybe a microfracture... If I remember correctly, some older cars did have issues with water ingress to the fuse box causing similar issues

The current regs may require some kind of mechanical cable protection. So you may need an armored cable or some suitable conduit adding to protect the T+E.

My understanding is when you're in the house, there is likely a relatively high resistance between the person and earth so the potential shock current is quite low. Obviously this will vary with house construction, location within the house, floor coverings etc... A car would typically be outside and rain or damp conditions are common. That may cause the resistance to be lower leading to a higher potential shock current. I guess the regs are trying to cover the more dangerous scenario first? Just to point out, I'm not an electrician and have no formal training so my understanding may be flawed

@J.R. - have a google for PENS fault protection. Just for example: https://www.romatech.co.uk/blog/page/view/ev_charging_pen_fault_earth_rod edit: Second link that's pretty clear to me: https://www.mylights.co.uk/images/pdf/TruePEN-Explain-Doc.pdf

The very latest rSAP BT modules was 3C8035730E which only supports 3G I'm afraid. There is no upgrade/future path to support 4G or 5G networks. Once 3G networks turn off, you'll need to revert to hands-free mode and stop using rSAP mode.

I think the UK models do... As you mention Euros I expect you're based somewhere else so there might be differences in spec.

I use the individual drive mode and set the sound to 'eco' which is quiet enough for me It doesn't - you'll need a diagnostic tool like VCDS or OBDeleven to change the setting to zero.

I don't think it's unusual for the fuse box to be behind the glove box, it'll be the same for other VAG cars and it certainly is on some Fords. That being said, I can't remember the last time I blew a fuse so I don't see it as a big issue

A proper LSD would be the mechanical solution and is always 'on'. I'd consider the VAQ to be an electro-mechanical solution. It can adjust the amount of pressure in the clutch pack and therefore transfer varying levels of torque depending what the control module deems necessary. - Sometimes it'll be completely 'off' and the diff will function like an traditional open diff - Sometimes it'll be completely 'on' and will act more like a mechanic LSD (the VAQ does have a limit to the torque it can transfer) - Most of the time it'll probably be between the two depending on driving conditions and driving style Different driving modes will change the VAQ operating parameters. In sport mode, I'd expect it to have more preload and react more quickly/aggressively to help with dynamic driving demands. XDS is indeed software, it basically brakes the inside (rear?) wheel to help control understeer. EDL is another software solution (electronic diff lock) which relies on the brakes to slow a spinning wheel and transfer torque through an open diff. I would expect a non-VAQ vRS to use both EDL and XDS/XDS+ to help control understeer. Obviously when applying the brakes to control the car, it will slow down fractionally. I think it was worth 8.5s around the Nürburgring but I doubt that translates well into a supermarket trip Random video that might help explain what a VAQ is:

Sounds like you might need a better OBD tool... If the engine light has been on, I'd expect a stored code to say why

With decent tyres the front end grip is super impressive for a relatively powerful FWD car and in my opinion, the VAQ is helping to make a good amount of that grip. Roundabouts are great fun as you can really get on the power early for good drive out... For me, the spec of the 245 'edition' was definitely worth it over the later 'normal' 245 or 230: - I use the heated seats most drives at the moment - Powerfold mirrors should have been standard for all the vRS and I would have retrofitted them otherwise - An added bonus I didn't know about was auto-dimming wing mirrors which are great for M/A road night driving - Front sensors are handy and work great with a retrofitted OEM reversing camera It was after the initial covid round and before the used car market went crazy. There was a good amount of choice and most prices were pretty similar between models, the one I chose even had DCC fitted If possible, I'd suggest taking both a VAQ and non-VAQ car out for a spin and see how they feel.

Pretty sure only pre-FL 230 and FL 245 got the VAQ, if it's a pre-FL 220 or FL 230 then it won't have a VAQ... The VAQ is basically a hydraulically operated clutch pack between the right hand drive shaft and differential cage. By adjusting the pressure on the plates, it can transfer torque across the front axle. A vRS (and other Octavia models) without VAQ will have 'EDL' which is a brake based system that applies braking force to the spinning wheel(s). If heated seats are on your list, maybe look for '67 or '18 plate 245's. When the 245 was first released the was an 'edition' spec with the following extras:

At a guess, the car shown above is brilliant silver? 2017 brochure lists the below, 2019 drops denim blue and cappuccino beige.

Both those systems require the vehicle speed so given the ABS sensors provide that data it's completely plausible. Ideally you should scan the car for fault codes as that'll give a clear picture of what the car thinks is wrong...

I'd guess that they've damaged the wiring to an abs sensor whilst doing the shocks... If it was just the normal lights after disconnecting the battery, I'd expect the lights to go out after a 100m or so.

Yup, Google play store 👍

There is a TPI regarding this issue as mentioned in this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/446755-new-rear-shock-absorbers-on-warranty

You probably need an account but the app will likely walk you through the process. No idea what kind of phone you have but you probably want this app: - Apple store: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/philips-hue-bluetooth/id1456604186 - Google play store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.signify.hue.blue&hl=en_GB&gl=US&pli=1

What SD card did you buy? Was it a Skoda/VW one designed for a MIB2...?

If I remember correctly, it depends how old the bulb is. Older ones need a hue hub to work Newer ones have bluetooth and can work without a hub.