langers2k

Depending what equipment you car has, those menu items might not be present as there is nothing to control. Do you know the cars history? The only other obvious reason for missing menu items would be if someone has messed with the cars coding or swapped parts without correct coding them afterwards. Without appropriate diagnostic tools, you probably can't get the menu items back...

Unless you have the right tools, you won't be able to. A dealer, independent with online ODIS or decent auto locksmith should though

Welcome! The cluster has the immoboliser and component protection built in so you can't just swap them I'm afraid. As for the warning lights, you probably need someone with diagnostic equipment to clear the fault codes for you

Skoda have been known to fit some poor quality batteries in the past so it's perfectly plausible for it to have died after 4 years, especially given the demands on a modern cars electronics and battery. It could also be something that's causing excess battery drain like a dashcam or similar. Is this a car you've only just purchased or have you had it from new?

Welcome. It could be a faulty battery - plenty of garages have battery testers to confirm that's the case before you buy a replacement If it is the battery, after replacement the car needs to be told there is a new one fitted so you'll need someone with diagnostic equipment to do that for you 👍

@Brimma a 2021 Fabia should be compatible with either a HEX-V2 or HEX-NET. The former is cheaper and the 10-Vin package tends to represent best value for money depending how you intend to use it. @Johngerard - a HEX-USB+CAN should have been perfect for a 2010 Golf (MK5/Mk6). It even worked with early MK7 Golfs without issue... From Rosstech regarding the HEX-USB+CAN:

The external coloured part of the fakra is just a 'key' to make sure it only fits the same coloured connector. The internal wire can be various grades of shielded cable designed for a set of RF frequencies, It can even be a multi core cable for USB or display purposes. I've no idea which kind of cable is fitted to yours or if it's suitable for TV signals I'm afraid - you should check which cable spec has been used and what it's suitable for

Based on the wiring diagram for a similar Octavia, R108 is both FM2 and DAB with separate connections for each function. I'd expect the DAB fakra to be black and the FM2 fakra to be one half of the dual white fakra - at least on the headunit side. R109 would be AM/FM and provide the second half for the dual white fakra. I think some R109 can also provide TV signal, I'd expect a separate fakra for it

Might be worth adding an autoscan from vcds to show what modules your car has etc...

The older A1 maps fitted on a 16gb card but they've grown over time and no longer do. If the ece1 maps have everywhere you need, go for it 👍

My Octavia vRS has a sound generator and that gets: GM3 VWGROUP ASM Electronic engine sound (type 2) It's easy to check for a sound generator if you have vcds or similar.

A lot of things rely on the drivers door control module... Given your list of issues, it feels like disconnecting it has probably caused most, if not all of them 👍

Thirded - the globe is red with no internet connection and goes white when it has connectivity

A dealer should be able to reset all modules to the factory coding from the VAG/Skoda servers... Might be worth having them do that to get it back to an original state given it's been messed with

I'd expect it'll to be fine

Scopes and mustimeters are different tools for different tasks. At a guess, a load test would be a good plan to check the other wires which can be done using a bulb Plenty of fault codes still present. 4718 - No Communication with Transmission Control Module Feels odd given the DSG is showing in the scan, this is similar and needed the flash finishing/redoing: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/16335/ Given the number of DSG faults, that does feel it could be a wiring/power/ground issue...

If it's only got a permanent feed, then yes, removing the CAN-bus wires may kill that. If it's a switched feed, it'll probably still work. I can't be sure so it's down to the OP and how far they want to go

Yes, if you were to retrofit a lowline HBA module, you would code other modules. You can try 'uncoding' HBA, at a guess: - BCM adaption Fernlicht_assistent-Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent to not present - BCM adaption Fernlicht_assistent-Menuesteuerung Fernlichtassistent Werkseinstellung to not present - BCM long code, Byte 2, Bit 0-2, check the drop down for the correct option That will probably just remove the HBA option from the headunit. The only extra thing would be to remove 20 from the CAN gateway installation list, that'll definitely result in some error codes, not sure if either of these will prevent the warning on the cluster etc. Assuming the rear view mirror has a switched power feed, disconnecting the two CAN-bus wires should finish the removal. If it has a permanent feed, I'd be worried about battery drain...

You used it when you made this post, I think it is now "submit reply" Reply to this thread with your details and I'm sure Gizmo will add you to the list 👍

I'm not sure if you can disable hba on a lowline module... The only reason that module would ever be fitted is when hba is enabled. The most obvious/correct path would be to for a non hba rear view mirror and then code it out from the other modules in the car. I'm also pretty sure it's a 0 ohm resistor that fails in these. You could always open it up, checking for the burnt out resistor and if applicable, replacing it with a wire...?

No line out, sorry

Nope - you'll need to change where it gets power from

Possibly... That stuff is all controlled by the CAN gateway dataset and installed FeC's. I expect a 2016 might be too old for the current research though: https://github.com/jilleb/MQB-FPA

Using point A is fine on all cars 👍 The only reason it's mentioned in regard to stop/start is to make sure the battery monitoring system is aware of any added energy during jump starting.

If I remember correctly, the Octavia should take 205/55 r16 or 225/45 r17. That'll give a theoretical 1.2mm ride height increase. I would be amazed if anyone would notice that... You'll see a bigger difference going from old to new tyres! The suspension doesn't change depending on wheel size so it'll look completely stock and normal.