langers2k

Assuming the ABS light illuminates during startup and then turns off, the system is typically happy and working. You could get the car scanned for fault codes with VCDS. If there are no fault codes, you can also use VCDS to monitor the wheel speed sensors to check for any obvious glitches whilst you attempt to provoke the problem. You could also pop to a garage and have them do a brake check to make sure they are working with the prescribed limits. Your initial post states damp (rain) conditions at 20-25mph. I would definitely expect ABS to kick in at those speeds if the tyres lost traction. Given the Sumitomo BC100 review specially mentions "Long braking in the dry and wet, low wet grip and oversteer balance" it seems an entirely plausible explanation. What were your old tyres? Maybe this is down to expecting premium/mid range performance from (in my opinion) a budget tyre.

Just to see what happens, I've been accelerating more gently and using a more sedate driving style on this tank... The car believes 500 miles is possible, just

Plenty of info online Just for example:

There are plenty of suggestions online that older systems only worked at high speeds. I can't see any confirmation regarding the speed ABS works down to on modern VAG vehicles. I'd expect it to work down to almost zero given it'll have various accelerometers, yaw, roll sensors etc and know when the vehicle is actually at a standstill. Thinks have moved on quite a bit since the earlier ABS systems

What state are your tyres in? Maybe they have very little grip causing them to lock sooner than you'd expect and ABS to kick in

Pretty sure on a '22 car TSR is now a FeC/SWaP/parameter issue so enabling it with VCDS is no longer an option. You probably need a specialist with the correct tools, @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits might be able to advise further

Pulling the fuse or unplugging it would be the easiest way. A few minutes should be plenty of time, no need for overnight. A fault code scan might give some clues 🤔

USB and Bluetooth will both be powered by the headunit, there won't be a separate fuse. As the other headunit functions are fine, it's either some kind of hardware failure or if you're lucky, a hard power cycle of the headunit might work if it's a software glitch?

The garage are correct. The 5L1 vs 5L2 is the LHD/RHD thing. I imagine someone needed a replacement and bought a more available, cheaper version from abroad 🤔

I'm not sure which projector the Yeti headlights use. Most aren't sold to normal consumers but you might find a used example on eBay or something with compatible mounting holes. Otherwise, a damaged RHD Yeti xenon could be a good starting point. Just be careful, headlights of this vintage may be 'perma-sealed' so the standard oven trick might not soften the sealant up enough to split the headlight easily. I don't know enough about the Yeti headlight to say whether splitting is necessary.

Exactly that... It's a ~1KW PTC heater element that sits in the HVAC system to provide 'some' warmth until the coolant warms up enough. I retrofitted one to a MK2 TDi Octavia and it did make a difference

I'm afraid that setting doesn't actually change the cut-off from RHD to LHD or vice-versa... Instead, it just disables the AFS functionallity, drops both headlights slightly to avoid glare and adjusts one (passenger side?) inwards to make up some of the lost light coverage. If Derek does indeed have the wrong cut-off pattern, they will likely need a new headlight... A xenon projector is a precision device, you might be able to flip and bend the shield to convert it but I doubt many have tried

From a 2012 Octavia owners manual in the towing section: Given a 2013 vRS will have ESP so assuming it's a suitable towing kit along with appropriate coding, then yes, you'll get trailer stabilisation

400+ miles between fillups isn't unusual for mine, longest was 430 miles. Worse tank was 33.0 mpg, best was 42.2, average is 37.8. Just depends how you drive it

@pab567 is normally the chap for firmware 👍

You might want to read DV52's guide to the Leuchte channels, not sure where the original is but there is a copy here: https://pdfcoffee.com/vw-mqb-golf-mk7-lighting-explanation-pdf-free.html Otherwise, read some of the many common light tweaks to get an idea how this stuff works. It's not really possible to give instructions or coding without seeing an adaption map and autoscan as even similar cars can be coded quite differently. Based on your previous posts, you might have a MK2 Octavia? If so, it doesn't use Leuchte channels

If the boot handle has suddenly stopped working, then it's probably the microswitch that's failed The only setting that's related is this: So I'd check that before replacing the boot handle

A VCDS autoscan might give some clues, or at least confirm which ECU and SW version you currently have.

A quick google suggests you probably need to update the ECU firmware, assuming an upgrade exists

Nor what country you're in... At least in the UK, I very much doubt that is counted as road worthy...

From the latest Scala owners manual: Looking at the latest Scala brochure: Based on that, I would say you don't have adaptive headlights and therefore you won't have a LHD/RHD switchover available. You'll need to use traditional stickers/beam benders I'm afraid.

There is no security chip... It's just the CID (Card ID, sort of like a serial number) that needs to be present on the allowed list. You can't wipe the CID during a format and generally speaking, it's impossible to change the CID Formatting is absolutely fine as per this guide:

The "intelligent Parking Assist System" module seems to be pretty generic too, these both look near identical but are being sold for BMW or Mercs: - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Car-Camera-Interface-Used-for-BMW_1600108377604.html - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Camera-Interface-for-Mercedes-BENZ-NTG_1600129774946.html Completely different to the OEM system which is just a camera and wire, for example this from Kufatc: No idea how well their 'coding dongle' works but you would need either OBDeleven or a dealer to unlock SFD first. While I agree that the coding could be lost if a dealer does a reset. I don't think I've heard of a OTA update resetting coding changes yet...

I just had a second look at the in-car-install kit as I was curious how it could work without coding. It's basically looks like a £30 Chinese camera (based on the connectors) and a LVCDS display switcher. The silver box connects between the headunit 'brains' and the display. It normally passes the video signal straight through. When it gets a CAN-bus message to say reverse is selected, it takes over the display to show the reverse camera output. Based on the images, it probably also understands the parking sensor/steering CAN-bus messages to give the proximity overlay and moving guidelines. In short, it means you will only get an image but there will be no controls or adjustability like an OEM camera: It's down to you if you're happy with that level of functionally

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Yup, that's typically a Columbus. Mid would be the Amundsen