langers2k

Exactly - it selects the drive (driving?) mode

Pretty sure that's just for drive mode selection. Given @BPL has no comfort mode or option to change DCC, I'd say they don't have DCC Some VW's get a button for DCC but I've never seen one in a Skoda:

I fitted a very similar camera on my '18 plate vRS with a factory fitted MIB2 and it works perfectly. You should check the boot handle dimensions though, earlier cars have a smaller cutout so the OEM camera may not fit without cutting the boot lid. You might want to see this thread, it covers both Chinese and OEM installation including a wiring diagram for a OEM highline camera:

I would definitely use an extension loom or similar to avoid cutting the original wires. Some amplifiers need a remote line to turn on. Others will turn on automatically when audio is detected on the input, this is auto-sense but may have other marketing names.

Pretty sure it's QNX from blackberry 👍

The factory amp uses CAN-bus to turn on/off and fibre optic (MOST) for audio. That's why there are no low level outputs or a remote wire 😉

Correct, there are no RCA plug or remote line on the factory headunit. You'll either need: - something to convert from high to low level input and create a remote line - just for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Critical-Channel-Speaker-Output-Convertor/dp/B073D55T5L - an amplifier with high-level inputs and auto-sense technology to turn on/off It might be worth talking to a local car audio shop for some options

I think this thread is starting to get slightly lost. Any issues facing J.R.s 'fixed' EA189 and unlikely to be linked with the OP's EA288. You already know your problem J.R. - your 'fixed' EA189 likes to regen too often, the blanked EGR might not be helping with this. The next step is still to try and get the engine 'unfixed' to see if the older software helps. I doubt it uses that much more fuel and I'd argue a bricked shaped Yeti with 4x4 will never be the most fuel efficient choice. There is nothing wrong with interrupting a regen and you don't need to continue the drive. If the car needs help with the DPF, it'll put a warning light on! As for the OP, I can't see how a DPF issue will cause low oil temperatures. If anything, it's more likely a failed thermostat will cause low oil temperatures and may hinder DPF regens. If I were them, I'd get a suitable VAG specific tool (or local member with VCDS) to check for codes and post them here. I'd also go for a 30 minute drive while logging the water and oil temperature from the ECU rather than the instrument cluster. That'll give a better idea of what the problem might be rather than guessing.

Just leave it to do it's thing... If the calculated value is causing a few more regens, apart from a small amount of fuel usage, it shouldn't make much difference to anything else

The oil ash level is very high... That's the stuff that can't be burnt off so I think the DPF is at the end of its life. You probably need a new DPF or to have a specialist remove and clean the oil ash for you.

You might want to take a look at this post: Seems like at least some are failing due to a 0 ohm resistor overheating and burning out. If so, replacing the resistor or even just using a jump wire might fix it for you

Pretty sure it's a vent or just plastic... The rain/light sensor is the round thing above it. The lane assist, traffic sign assist and high beam assist is the triangular cut-out. The auto-dimming mirror sensors are on the actual mirror, one facing each way.

I wouldn't be surprised if the extra load increased under bonnet temps so it may not have been a interrupted regen causing the fan to run on. Running a pre-fix software may help reduce the number of regens. My pre-fix CFHC Octavia would regen every 300-350 miles so around a third as often. I've no idea how much fuel that would save but only a couple of litres per tank at a guess... TBH - I just left my car to do it's thing. As long it's not using oil and the oil ash volume is increasing consistently, it's probably fine.

I never found an official limit for the oil ash volume. On some forums they mention 175ml but plenty of folk have reported 200-250ml or even 300ml+. That suggests that nothing happens assuming it can still burn the soot off. I never saw much of a correlation between measured and calculated soot mass so that's completely normal. I don't think 'calculated mass' takes into account passive regen so it often much higher. The 45g limit only applies to soot mass, if it hits 45g it's no longer safe to regenerate so needs replacing or removing for cleaning. This is completely unrelated to the oil ash volume.

You need to retrofit a suitable MK60EC1 module. It will involve rewiring/changing the ABS module connector and adding an extra power feed. You'll also need to create a suitable long coding which will be specific to your VIN 👍

You'd need a wiring loom, mic and compatible BT module. It might also need coding in afterwards. Plenty of people seem to fit Android based headunits and are happy enough but I don't have any suggestions.

Welcome That behaviour suggests the car doesn't have bluetooth I'm afraid. The factory location for a BT module would be under one of the front seats so feel free to check there to see if one is fitted.

It's possible to change this although it's not simple. It requires finding the original dataset for the CAN gateway, tweaking it and the uploading it. More info: https://github.com/jilleb/MQB-FPA/wiki/dataset#0x339---0x345-profile-position-it-returns-to-after-restart

Double pressing the lock button quickly will disable safelock which also disables interior monitoring and anti-towing protection: The alarm will still be active but will be using fewer protection methods, these are listed on the page I previously posted in the alarm trigger section

After flashing I needed to parameterise the gateway. There were no issues with CP or SWaP/FeC - both were unaffected by the flash and parameterisation

All covered in the owners manual

Weird - nothing should be holding the throttle open for that long. Feels like something is failing but I'm not entirely sure what or how. Personally, I'd log various parameters during a drive to try and narrow it down but I imagine you haven't got any diagnostic equipment?

Your symptoms match mine so it's my best guess - I had no issues with heater output - I noticed the oil temp would sit around 80-85'C rather than 90'C+ at a continuous 60-70mph - When the weather dropped cooler, I saw the same water temp drop that you've described when stationary If your oil temps are also low like mine that suggests both your temperature sensors are reading correctly. If so the engine is probably overcooling which is likely the thermostat I'm sure some others will be along soon who may have some alternative suggestions.

How long is it maintaining speed for? If it's only briefly, you might just be experiencing 'rev hang' where the ECU continues to inject fuel for emissions reasons even after you've lifted off.

Welcome! When I had similar issues on a 2012 Octavia CR140 - it was the main thermostat failing and a replacement fixed it I logged the temperatures before/after to confirm the issue/fix: Another member also had success with a new thermostat too. Seems like it's an arse of a job, the dealer had my car for an entire weekend to fit it!