Dean

It’s also possible that the SAI pump can throw the light on. It does on my Red vRS, but I refuse to delete it all. But I’d recommend getting the car scanned again to see what’s throwing the light on.

Codes relate to; MAF Sensor, All x4 coil packs. And, the last is your: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor. Are the above codes after it being cleared, or before?

If you want to test the door next time, just put a screwdriver in the lock instead of shutting it. At least this way you wont be swearing at yourself!

Woooooooooo! Suggested this before in other topics. God knows why I didn't mention it here. I hope t's stopped it now.

Updated with cars with owners.

We all have life's good sir, and I don't always get time to update. At least we have a register. I'm just taking a look at this, now.

These are still around in the garage.

Blimey, don’t ever drive a standard one! Absolutely gutless they are. It really is painful to drive my Red one when the occasion calls. A Stage 1 is really how it should’ve left the factor, as that makes such a difference. I’m honestly thinking about seeing Niki at R-Tech to get a map done. 😂

I don't have anything to hand, currently. I'll have to check the garage. I also, don't have any other pictures.

As far as I can remember. In order to stay open, it'll need the small little curled spring in order to spring it open. I've seen that you've replied to another post. So you may already know this. I'll try to see if I had nay photos of when I started to fix these a couples years back. This is the part that opens and closes the holder, as the grooves determine if it opens or closes with each press. Most of the time it is this part that breaks. EDIT I found my pictures, I hope it helps.

Hello good sir, and welcome to the community!

CatC… I wouldn’t pay over £800 for that. I’ve seen one without being a right off just sell for £1200. Better off going for the other x2 Red ones on there currently. Most will find these in the FB market place, a hell of a lot cheaper than Autotrader. Now for Diesel, do what Nige said. Got for a PD130. I get roughly 55mpg and I’m not a slow driver. £90 to tax for 6 months. Engine will outlive the car shell.

As above, I have mentioned the kits I used on mine. At £17 each, it's worth replacing them.

@Okvrsmk1 It's only worth doing if the car is mapped to suit. If you're just stage 1, then it's not needed. If you plan to go stage 2, then it would be recommended to upgrade. However, that looks like one of the smaller sized intercoolers, which really won't help with cooling over the standard unit. These engines would benefit from one of the larger kits. I use a THS twin pass as it keeps everything hidden and, neat and doesn't involve cutting. This is all from comments/suggestions from here and tuning companies. But, I feel a lot is trial and error. As even people have told me not to use a twin pass. So in essence, you can try it. But, a kit designed for an Octavia would be of more a benefit.

As I said, he has them all in the shop. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-Toledo-MK2-Front-Left-Door-Lock-Arosa-Leon-MK1-Skoda-Octavia-MK1-Actuator-/141884094312?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Hope it fixes your issue! 😌🤙🏻

Go after market, unless you want to bend over for OEM. I an a few others have purchased these ones. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-MK1-Front-Right-Door-Lock-Actuator-1996-2010-Brand-New-/133370596286?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 A year later, they’re still going strong. Well worth the price. They also sell the other 3 sides too.

Throttle body clean if it’s dirty? Sometimes the butterfly doesn’t move freely if it’s full of grime.

I’ll give you a PM. 👍🏻

Yes, a guy called Paul owned the car.

Any lights on the dash? Have you checked the coilpacks too?

I'm in contact with the owner of this vRS. Should anyone be interested in this high spec example. Give me a PM.

I've had a look everywhere, too. Maybe, @nige8021 is able to find it?

The VR6 engine fits. Someone has just done a conversion on their 4x4. It’s a lot of work and you really need to know what you’re doing. I fear that if you’re already asking, then it maybe not for you. This picture and car is owned by Carl.

I'm not sure if it's part of the windscreen (as in it comes with it, I know it can be removed)? From Bowders photo here, you can see it's attached all the way around the bottom half of the screen.

I really don’t think it’s the scuttle panel. Time to lift the carpet I think if you get time. You’ll only need to left half of it, but give yourself a few hours to remove trims and seats. The floor could be so wet that the underlay is absolutely soaking.. Example of mine: