Dean

The black cable opposite the green fuses went hot within seconds of starting the car. Do I need to buy a new alternator harness or just get some new cable and crimp it? A new cable and crimp it. Others have cut it. But, personally, I would have a new one. It also looks like in the past, the black cable next to the 4 red cables has been changed. You can see the burn mark on the plastic cover, so that's obviously built up resistance and someone had it changed.

I’d look at that door loom first. Take it completely out or get a multi meter on it and check for any breaks in the wires.

It’ll be on the drivers side usually just off the bend going up to the intake. At least that’s is where mine is as the wire is not long enough. Inner arch out, and wheel off to get to it. Or to make life easy, take the bumper off and take a few photos for reference in case you need anything else at a later date.

Only pic I've got at the moment. It's a full THS setup. Slight modification to the slam panel (inside) so the pipes site in place. It can't be seen at all once the bumper is on. I have a bracket that supports the weight of the FMIC neatly, and it bolts to the slam panel. Unlike a lot of other people who attach it to their front panel.

You have second hand kits on the other groups on FB, I’m sure. People are always breaking their cars. So I’d join a few groups and see if anything comes up. I run a FMIC but it’s a twin pass, so all the connections are in the drivers side, so it keeps it all OEM. If you’re going to run the normal FMIC, I think upgrading to the 225 Bam inlet looks better and gives a better flow. I’d still expect to spend between £300-£400 for a full kit, even second hand.

Very nice!! 🤤

Currently, the 7th car in my above list is for sale. If someone is wanting/looking for a very HIGH SPEC MK1 Octavia vRS. It's very similar to MY Corrida Red Spec (Minus the Parking Sensors and Heated Seats). Spec: MAXI DOT DISPLAY (WITH GPS AERIAL, FACTORY) DX SATNAV (You'll need to confirm this as I cannot see it in the photo) XENONS CRUISE CONTROL CORRIDA RED While the spec is nice, the condition isn't the best, and it needs some love. The inside I think needs ripping out! Also, it's worth noting that if you plan to run an intercooler with Xenons, you will have some trouble as the extra space is taken up by the xenon levellers. Best of luck should anyone want to go get it... If I had the space, I'd honestly would've bought it last week.

Welcome aboard!

Excellent work, mate!

All mine are doing it too. It's bound to happen to our older cars now. But best to try and find the leak. Although, I left my window open yesterday... Wasn't fun this morning.

I have a picture in my thread. As I run one (two soon).

Last couple of ideas; door card with no membrane and the door seals. I wonder if the underlay is probably so wet and rotten now, that it keeps making the carpet wet. When I fully stripped out the Estate, mine were falling apart. Get the right tools to make your life easy (plastic interior tools). Work from the top of the a/b/c pillars and remove them first so no clips break.

Updated.

Take loads of pictures! Always worth making a project thread too, then we can keep up with your progress and it can also help others? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/

In case the door deadlocks. As for not unlocking, it could be either; the module, the wiring loom or a combination of both. Water can easily get into the connector blocks and corrode wires. Don't just visually inspect it, take off the outer layer of TESA TAPE and inspect it all, including the block. For once, I wouldn't bother with OEM replacements, they're very, very expensive. You can pick up excellent after market modules for around £17 each. Example of mine failing/fixing And an issue that you wouldn't see unless you looked into the block...

Hi Will, and welcome to the community. Be sure to add a project thread, and any questions, in the MK1 area. Enjoy!

I would be careful then. It’s easy to add a generic map or buy an off the shelf version. Doing so (as with adding any power improvement) will highlight any weaknesses. Clutch, Turbo, etc. If you’re going to have a remap, factor in a new clutch if you haven’t already, and do not be surprised if it goes. Wanting more power? Do the basics first. A full service is key. Check paperwork to see when the clutch was last changed. Check all your pipes and connections on them. It’s easy to pop a boost pipe and you need to know how to reconnect them. This isn’t said to scare you, it’s just a risk we all take when we modify our cars. And, you need to be aware of it. Especially if you’re just going to swap out an ECU or, chuck a map on it.

You may enjoy Focus mode on iOS now, as you can set your phone so nothing comes through (except the people you add to a list). So you could make a Focus Mode, (Away) or (Shower) Or (Running) and listen to your music, in peace.

Just seen this today and added it, and then I've just seen your post. Cheers @MarkSE 👍

As you would've seen by now, we have reverted to using the forum for posting in the marketplace. To make things easier and, to make selling your items a breeze, we've added a 'For Sale Template'. On your editor toolbar, you'll now find a 'Lightening Bolt', this is called stock replies. Clicking this will bring up another box. Clicking the 'For Sale Post Template' and, the editor pop will be populated with an editable template. Please try to add as much detail to your for sale post as possible.

Welcome along Chris, nice to have you aboard. Don't forget to add a project thread so we can keep up to date with your progress.

Where's the fun in that!

Remember when this went up for sale and remember you purchasing it. Lovey example. A little jealous but, good luck with the sale.