Dean

I can confirm, we got this feature too, it's on my current model. (2005)

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If this is the same issue that has plagued us all, were the fuse box on the battery melts? If so, it's very, very common on the VAG range of this year; Golfs, Seat, Ibiza, TT, etc. Search Results for Melted Fuse Box Example

Sorry to bump such an old topic, but currently looking for more solutions on the Octavia. Pete, is it the same design by any chance? Any chance of an updated picture to be added?

No, as the motor always returns to its position. And to be fair, once the scuttle panel is off, its 3 bolts I think to take it out, and the clip on the plug. Not hard at all. Use a flat head screwdriver or something similar to pop the linkage off each other, and take a photo too.

If you look for '443122235017' as it's a universal number it seems. The official part number used in the Octavia vRS - 1J2955113C This also matches - the MK4 GOLF. Part no. 1J1955113B. Plus the Leon, and Audi TT AUQ. Linkage ONLY Part No. 1J0955325A - Should you wish to renew it. I wouldn't worry about second hand. For the sake of £25, it's worth a punt. MK2 1ZU will not fit. When stripping, did you remove the spindles and clean them up? As you will find 3 washers, 2 orings and 1 circlip. It's worth doing that. If my memory is correct. I'm sure you can open up the motor and clean it out and regrease. Those arms, make sure they are straight and the rubber parts all greased too. If you followed a guide, I'm sure you would've done this. I would probably get another set and just swap over the motor and keep the original linkage. Some on ebay for sale: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406534243168 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286879711130 There are loads of people who strip these on the FB group, so you can always get one. I just noticed this. Take out the WHOLE unit, and strip it down on a bench and regrease.

I have these for my Octavia - but, they might not be suitable with airbag seats. So, a modification might be needed. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MV0VCDQ

Yup, all built in.

To me, that would sound like some sort of leak or, pipe expanding. The reason they quoted so is due to the recommendation of the doing the DMF while the clutch off. By the time you've factored in the prices of the clutch kit and DMF it won't be far off the price with labour. Of course, shop around. The price does seem a little high to me, I would expect more around the £600-£800... Now, if the car worth it to you and you're going to keep it for a while, then I wouldn't be put off by doing this. I don't really factor things like this in with the car, as with every car it will need doing, just like routine maintenance. Or, I would've got rid of so many cars... This is my personal opinion.

Sidelights are included as mine were LED and would’ve failed straight away. Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-4

I had LED side bulbs in mine to match the whiteness of the xenon bulbs, to be fair they were in there when I bought the car. A mate doing my MOT says they have to be removed before I do the MOT, thankfully he had a check over everything for me. I also found I had LEDs for the high beams that made my lights flicker so they came straight out!

WILL LED BULBS PASS AN MOT?There are two popular alternative light sources that are often fitted to halogen headlights – HID and LED. But on 11th January the wording in the MOT inspection manual was updated to state that conversion of halogen to either HID or LED bulbs will automatically fail an MOT. To quote section 4.1.4 of the MOT Inspection Manual: HID lights (high intensity discharge) fitted to halogen headlights have been reason to fail an MOT for a while now, but fitting LEDs has always been a bit of a grey area. Technically only “E Marked” bulbs could be fitted to headlights, and LEDs do not typically carry such markings. However many people would continue to fit them as an alternative for halogen for longer life and greater output. LED’s are also a cheaper and far simpler alternative to HID Xenon bulbs that often require extra work installing additional wiring and ballasts. Any ambiguity on the rules for LEDs has been put to rest with this clear MOT guidance now though. It’s not entirely clear on the reasoning behind this new wording – some cite changes stemming from Brexit, others argue it’s just to keep any loopholes closed. But now it’s important as a motorist that if your vehicle is not using halogen bulbs when it should be, you’d better consider swapping them back as an MOT failure would now be entirely justified.

Remember these lights are over 20 years old now, and comparing to new lights now, they’ll always look dim. You can try and get some brighter ds2’s, but not LED’s if you’re in the UK as it will fail MOT. Orsam or Philips seem to be quite good. Also ensure the lights are clean, inside too. There is a guide somewhere on how to clean the inside but you must take care.

Excellent news!!

Welcome back Lee! Reckon you could start making/selling them again...

Hello and welcome!

If buying the Kufatec loom, confirm with the company to make sure it fits. As you’re in Spain, I am unsure if any laws in regards to retrofitting. You’ll have to look around in regard to the extra wire needed to use the full beams. I am sure as they can as standard on my vRS.

I'm sure you've seen it. But, Richard's yellow MK1 is now for sale. A lot of time and effort put in to ask strong money. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1634192436827448/ £3750 2003 Škoda Octavia · Hatchback · Driven 117,000 kilometres 2003 skoda Octavia vrs 117000 miles, Lots of history an receipts Some service history, Forge Front mount intercooler, Various Polybushes including the dogleg, Spax full adjustable coilovers not that old, Rear arb Strut brace Deletes done,ie 249 and Sai Replaced starter motor, Replace steering wheel, New alternator to battery fuse box loom, Decat-2.5 inch pipe with 1 back box not overly loud, sounds nice, Stage one Re-map, New Ramair cone filter/with Neuspeed heat shield New engine bay fuel pipes Engine dress up, Boost gauge, amp gauge, Double din stereo, Cambelt water pump @ 115500 March 25 Cam cover gasket, changed June 25 Power steering fluid changed june25 Fuel filter+pollen filter+new plugs,June 25 oil + filter changed May 25 Both sills repaired professionally , April 25, New power steering pump, oct 25 Recon steering rack, oct 25 New battery Oct 25 Private Plate included Mot till May 2026, Any more info pls pm

Surprised it failed an MOT as both my vRS and my old L&K have never worked. But, the light adjustment does within the headlight. You should see these go up and down with ignition and light on. Just ask them to set the beam pattern manually and it should pass. That way you can look into getting the parts you need as they are quite difficult to get hold of now.

Same way on iPhone. Click and add it to your Home Screen via the Safari Browser. No app, it’s just a simplified version of a browser window that you can have notifications on.

Ah ok, I see. Let us know how you get on. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.

I may be wrong here, but I don’t think it’ll work with that type of radio. There are other listings online for similar products, I would cross reference these and see what radios work. While I like OEM. It’ll be easier just to check a nice single din radio in. It’ll be plug and play.

That would be the first thing I’d remove… Got a picture? These engines do not like blow off valves as they are not designs for them. You need a diverter valve. You can still get the ptshhh sound if you wish with a open cone filter or a cold air induction setup.

While this is connected to the CD changer plug, I don't think these use the CD changer option. It should be using the AUX settings? However, I could be wrong... Either way, make sure you connect the red wire to 12V+, the black wire to 12V-. Then try the CD changer (as I guess it's meant to mimic a connection) and, also try the AUX option too.

Hi Conor, As you look into the engine bay, each side should be a small grommet if it's there, down by the bonnet hinges. From my old L&K. Every time it rained, my carpet was soaked, and it ended up ruining the underlay. I had to rip everything out to try and dry the interior. Under the scuttle panel, to the right of the cabin filter, I had this grommet missing. This was for left hand drive cars who had the bonnet latch wire coming through the firewall. UK cars have it on the right. Purchase a load of bungs/grommets and sealed it over. Never had a leak again.