Dean

No, but I must make clear that this is on a MK3 Octavia (sorry).

I started to notice it on my own last year, and asked about it. Also asked a master tech at Skoda who says it’s quite common. After searching around the forums it does appear to be very common. I’m just dreading the day I have to cut open the LED unit at the back to change bulbs!

Completely normal, especially with temps at this time of year. It will soon disperse once the lights are on and the headlight heats up.

Picture 2: Source:

Picture 1:

Skoda Octavia Mk1 (1996-2010) Fusebox Diagram Passenger Compartment Fuse Box Fuse Number Function Amperage (A) 1 Heating of exterior mirrors, relay for cigarette lighter, power seats, and washing nozzles 10 2 Turn signal lights, Xenon headlight 10 3 Lighting in storage compartment 5 4 License plate light 5 5 Seat heating, Climatronic, circulating air flap, exterior mirror heater, cruise control system 7.5 6 Central locking system 5 7 Reversing light, sensors for parking aid 10 8 Phone 5 9 ABS, ESP 5 10 Ignition, S-contact (for power consumers operable with ignition off until key withdrawal) 10 11 Instrument cluster 5 12 Power supply of the self-diagnosis 7.5 13 Brake lights 10 14 Interior lighting, central locking system 10 15 Instrument cluster, steering angle sender, rear mirror 5 16 Air conditioning system 10 17 Heated windscreen washer nozzles 5 17 Daylight driving lights 30 18 Right main beam 10 19 Left main beam 10 20 Right low beam, headlight range adjustment 15 21 Left low beam 15 22 Right parking light 5 23 Left parking light 5 24 Front window wiper, motor for wash pump 20 25 Air blower, air conditioning system, Climatronic 25 26 Rear window heater 25 27 Rear window wiper 15 28 Fuel pump 15 29 Control unit: Petrol engine 15 29 Control unit: Diesel engine 10 30 Electric sliding/tilting roof 20 31 Not assigned — 32 Petrol engine: Injection valves 10 32 Diesel engine: Injection pump, control unit 30 33 Headlight cleaning system 20 34 Petrol engine: Control unit 10 34 Diesel engine: Control unit 10 35 Trailer socket, power socket in the luggage compartment 30 36 Fog lights 15 37 Petrol engine: Control unit 20 37 Diesel engine: Control unit 5 38 Lighting of the luggage compartment, central locking system, fuel filler flap, interior lighting 15 39 Hazard warning light system 15 40 Horn 20 41 Cigarette lighter 15 42 Radio, mobile phone 15 43 Petrol engine: Control unit 10 43 Diesel engine: Control unit 10 44 Seat heaters 15 Engine Compartment Fuse Box Fuse Number Function Amperage (A) 1 Pump for ABS 30 2 Valves for ABS 30 3 Radiator fan 1st stage 30 4 Glow plugs for heating the coolant, relay for air pump 50 5 Engine control unit 50 6 Radiator fan 2nd stage 40 7 Main fuse of the interior 110 8 Dynamo (depends on engine type and equipment) 110/150

Does it look like past owners have jacked the car up in the middle of the rear axel? They should have a stick stating that it should be jacked up. Although, I imagine most have fallen off by now. Not sure if this will be helpful to use as a guide:

The correct way for our MK1's is to use the ABS system via VCDS to and bleed that way. Be sure to bleed the master cylinder, there are TWO bleed nipples. When I had done mine, my pedal sunk to the floor until I found the 2nd bleed nipple.

Please use this topic for firmware updates and questions. This topic is about model numbers of infotainment systems.

I still have this.

No for sales threads unless you're a FREEDOM (paid member). I'll leave this message here.

A lot of people remove this as part of the simplified delete. @Bowders1 does this as a service too should you wish to have it removed. However, I'm sure you can pick up a spare or a pattern part. Plenty of vRS's being broken at the minute.

Any bolt will do, if you measure the opposite side, try and to find a spare one.

This car is still up for sale...?

Hi Ashley, The car was on facebook, your best bet is to keep a look out in the groups for a vrs estate being broken. However, most have the same issue... So it might be better to get yours repaired.

You could, but the problem you find is that they are a 1 piece system. OEM are very hard to get hold of and I doubt you'll find any at the factories now. I would look into have a fully custom built one. If you can find a second hand that would be even better. If you have Milltek or Piper in Sweden, they are bolt on systems.

I'd start by looking at the wiring and checking for continuity.

Like any car, if serviced regularly if can go on and on and on. Many now I've seen are over 200k. But, you can have some under 100k with the engine gone. It's just a risk at these ages now. The best you can do is find an unmolested one with service history, stay away from the lowered or modified ones if you can.

Haven'r a clue sorry. Keep a look out for for second hand units on ebay and facebook as they do pop up every now and then.

Saw this on FB for sale. Looked like a decent base to build upon. Good luck!

I think 18" will unbalance the ride personally, as it will certainly make it harsher.

I'll probably be giving this a go soon!

I have a THS twin pass setup on my black VRS. A few others also run them because of the fitment. I didn’t want to see the piping or anything that would give it away as an intercooler is installed.

Correct. The Octavia vRS looks best with the 17" Spiders wheels.

Sorry guys, it hides some icons on smaller screens/devices. I'll get it enabled.