26DIPP

Chemicals do mot loosen the soot / carbon deposits. A walnut shell blast with the intake tract removed helps and makes everything shiny and new.

I have attached the current flow diagram for the mirrors and windows. Work your way through it and you will find the fault. You will have to use a volt metre too. Door control driver mirror windows.pdf

It is a flat battery. When you start driving the lights will go off one by one. The stored DTCs will need to be deleted with a code reader or VCDS.

What tyres did you have on the 18" wheels? Did you change make as well as wheel size? I had Continental Sport Contact once and they were very noisy.

I usually start on setting 3 and the come down to 2 or 1. You can change the setting with VCDS.

Does this make VCDS obsolet?

I retrofitted an autodimming mirror and heated washer jets. Did you need any special adapters to run the double DIN radio with the CAN 1.6 of your 2008 F II?

On a Fabia II the dipped beams are on seperate fuses - 57 and 58 - and there should not be a surge from one blowing the other as on the same circuit.

The broken rear coil spring replacement is now a broken FRONT coil spring replacement. Will the tracking have to be done after replacement? When I replaced them on a Zafira I did have to do tracking.

You can probably retrofit the Lowline camera. The Highline is trickier.

I had a look at the front springs today. The right front markings are closer to the base, the end feels sharp and the distance wheel arch to tyre is closer by about 10mm. I will need to fix the right front!!! But for the MOT retest: As I have failed on the broken right rear coil spring is this what they will retest? The DVLA website states partial test.... How bad is this from a test centre? The new REAR coil springs are on the way. Should I complain if they pass us after the test? And point out the front?

I looked around and felt both top and bottom ends. There are no sharp ends pointing to a broken end.

Our F II from 2009 failed its MOT today because of a broken coil spring in the back. I had swapped left and right rear tyres last week and looked at all the gubbins in the wheel arch and did not notice anything. Lay under the car after the MOT looking and feeling for the crack and all I can see is that the black laquer has cracked and is peeling off. The spring itself is o.k. But I guess, since the tester wrote "broken coil spring" into the test certificate I definitely have to change it and I will. I have one question: There 2 different versions of rear coil spring available. One has an outer diametre of 96 mm and a wire diametre of 10.25 mm and the other has an outer diametre of 99 mm and a wire diametre of 9.75 mm. Are they interchangeable??

I will probably have a go at the weekend. The leak is from the oil sump seal.

It is the DSG7 which has a wet clutch. L&K would be my choice. I would still barter on that price. 8700 miles could have been their demonstrator or a management car and they specced it a bit sweeter.

The estate is more versatile and - I think - elegant rather than workhorse. The 2L TDI 190 is advertised as ULEZ compliant. Sportsline is sporty looking with little kit for the money. L&K is more expensive but better value for money. L&K does not have some of the nice paintwork you only get on Sportsline.

We have a small leak that from the oil pan I want to fix on a 2009 1.4l petrol engine - BXW. ERWIN describes that the exhaust which runs a handwidth under the pan has to come off. Has anyone removed the pan without removing the exhaust header pipe? Also it states that a special VW cleaning and degreasing agent should be used. How special does a cleaning and degreasing agent have to be?

Superb rear seat removal.pdf

I have compared some of the fuse settings with a F II ERWIN diagram and there are quite a few different. I have attached the diagram. Check them against your handbook and your current setup. I have changed fuse 27 and 47 in our Fabia and on the PDF. Just ignore my notes. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=177877

I know about the 7°C marker. I have been using winter tyres for 36 years. In the dry - even around 0°C ground temp - summer tyres are o.k. If I drive locally and can react to weather changes I do not change tyres. Agreed, winter in the summer are safer than summer tyres in wintery conditions.

The magic spray is a good dose of fairy liquid or similar in water in a spray bottle. It foams when air bubbles through it. If you have time, take the wheel off lay it levelled on its side and spray the fairy onto the rim / rubber and leave it. after some time you will see white foam in one spot. mark it with gaffa tape, refit and go back to the tyre place.

I have winter tyres in the garage and unless I have a longer trip planned I just watch the weather forecast. If frost and snow start to get forecast I put winter tyres on. It takes about one hour plus cleaning the summer wheels.

As e-Roottoot says check with your insurer. Snow chains on tarmac do not damage your tyres but the chains wear down quickly and the ride comfort is more that of a tank in the field. Also your steering is less precise.

I use Thule 755 with aero bars. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thule-755-Rapid-System-Foot-Pack/324310810007?hash=item4b826e3d97:g:p8sAAOSw2ZhfcG-~

I would prefer a nice, subtle, clean tailgate. The Skoda logo is quite o.k. I know that Volvo are doing it and the new Golf logo is spread out.