D402

My money's on worn out strut top bearings but check for anything rubbing on the rotating parts of the steering column.

@nickysavage It is possible to clean the switch contacts, details here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/472970-ignition-switch-w-kessy-restoration/

Checked my tyre pressures at the weekend, all good. A few miles into a journey, the tyre pressure loss warning came up and I stopped to check. The suspect tyre had lost about 0.8 bar in 10 miles. I pumped it up again and continued for another 50 miles without getting another warning. The warning came up again shortly into my next journey but that was short so I carried on to my overnight stop. The tyre was completely flat the next morning. I pumped it up again, inspected carefully for any embedded objects or damage finding nothing, and did 60 miles back home with no issues. The tyre was still at full pressure afterwards and still is the next morning! Any ideas what could be going on?

Unplug anything from the USB ports

You were lucky, there is a risk of unscrewing the park brake piston from the actuator thread which needs a complete stripdown of the caliper to put right. This is the same as what happens if you take a brake out of service mode before it is fully reassembled - in this case the motor winds the park brake piston off the end of the actuator.

Not necessary - you can switch the ignition off while the park brake is in service mode and it will remember when you switch back on to exit. Once in service mode, push the pistons straight back without turning them. Make absolutely sure that the brakes are fully reassembled before exiting service mode.

Are you sure about Fuse 4? According to this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/515242-fuse-help/ it's for the heated steering wheel only. Fuse 7 seems more likely, and is 4th along its row of fuses. Something supplied by that fuse must be causing a short circuit and blowing the fuse which I guess causes the fan to lose communication from the control panel and default to running at full speed. Unfortunately it's not going to be easy to trace or fix. In the meantime you could pull fuse 14 which should stop the fan.

I used Mannol too, until I discovered this: https://ukla-vls.org.uk/?s=mannol - many cases of products that are non-compliant with their claimed specifications, including 504/507.

Radar recalibrated to restore front assist and ACC functions, and MOT passed with no advisories today.

What is the battery voltage when the steering feels tighter?

@PWP I've got the same problem but did succeed in getting the radar cover off. You need to extract the two rubber plugs on the slam panel above the cover. Look down each hole and you'll see a cut out in the plastic below, poke a small screwdriver in this slot and it will press on the release tab for one of the top clips of the sensor. Release both tabs like this and you'll be able to wiggle the cover a bit more. I found that bottom clips came fully free before the top ones once the cover was loosened at the top. I cleaned quite a lot of debris off the back of the cover so had high hopes of this fixing it but after a week and about 400 miles of driving ACC is still unavailable with DTC C110300 Adaptive cruise control sensor: misadjusted

No, you'd probably never know if you didn't scan for fault codes.

Reviving an old thread, I'm a regular user of the M42 and have been since the pilot scheme. Never a problem until yesterday when there was a car stopped on the hard shoulder between J3A and 4 which was open although the motorway was less busy than usual. I moved over and passed it no problem but noticed that the hard shoulder remained open until I left at J4 a couple of miles later. Should I have stopped to report it at the next refuge? I thought this too risky. Would it have been worth a 999 call?

My car's mid-life crisis continues with a new battery and air quality sensor fitted at the weekend. It's much happier starting now!

Can you measure the battery voltage when you are actually suffering from the heavy steering to see if it drops under load from the power steering? The power steering should be fully functional even at 12 V.

Are you experiencing the heavy steering after lots of turning at very low speeds? The power steering could be reducing assistance to prevent overheating in this case.

They must have estimated the location based on journey times through the Birmingham Road works!

A service that turned out to be much more expensive than expected - front shock absorbers, top mounts, droplinks and a rear spring needed! Car is a much nicer drive now without the squeaky and bouncy front end so I'm happy to have had it all done. Next steps are to fix a dead bass speaker in the nearside rear door, 80k DSG service and get a few scratches sorted out.

Exhaust pipe mounts?

G83 only appears in the 1.4 and 2.0 petrol engine sections of the pdf service manual I've got.

Uploading Attachment... Replaced rear shock absorbers. There was a bit more than 'light misting' going on with the old ones, and not a lot of damping! Car feels much more stable now and road noise is reduced.

I've just replaced the discs and pads on mine because of a similar vibration problem. The old pads were fine but the discs had discoloured patches and you could feel variations in friction as you ran a finger round them. My guess is that it was a material or casting issue with the discs. Anything similar on yours?

Have you changed any lights to LEDs? This can cause strange effects: DDTSB – TSBs for the Aftermarket - VW MQB Platform: One Wrong Bulb Causes Bizarre Electrical Faults

Replaced front discs and pads which has cured the brake judder I was suffering ☺️

Very similar problem here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533413-oil-temp-reaches-90c-vehicle-starts-jumping/ was solved by replacing the crank sensor.