D402

Based on using ECE 1 on a 16gb card, ECE 3 will fit, ECE 4, 5 and 7 might fit.

@Stonechip The old discs and pads were Brembo, the new ones are Delphi. The Brembo discs were fine but I wasn't impressed by the pads - braking wasn't as strong as the OE pads and they produced lots of dust, also that one pad wore much more than the others which makes me suspect the friction material broke up or detached from the backing plate. No complaints about the Delphi pads or discs so far. Unfortunately, I still have brake judder so will have to do the fronts as well, and I found a leaking shock absorber too 🙄

It's a roll pin so you can just press it back in with any suitable tool, I used a vice.

You've not done this have you?

Replaced the rear brake pads and discs again, they only seem to last about 36k miles. Nearside pads were ok but the inside of the disc was rusty: Offside disc was ok but inner pad was completely worn out, must keep a better eye on them.

I used Carista (phone app with bluetooth OBD adapter) which was the cheapest option at the time and worked fine.

Better luck at 123,456, bonus points if you remember to reset the trip meter at 122,667!

You do not need to leave the ignition on after putting the EPB into service mode so no need for a battery charger. Make absolutely sure that the brake caliper, pads and discs are fully assembled before doing the 'end lining change'.

Very interesting, thank you for monitoring and analysing 👍 Do you think the often quoted recommendation to drive on the motorway in a low gear to complete a regen might make things worse?! The problem I have is that I often do a journey where a stretch of dual carriageway close to home triggers a regen but isn't long enough for it to complete.

Here you go, looks like it won't be easy https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/379864-se-and-se-business-drls/

Have you by any chance changed the boot lights from normal bulbs to LED and left an interior light switched on? This situation causes my car to repeatedly switch off then wake up again. It's fine with all interior lights switched off.

Check that the steering wheel isn't rubbing on the steering column cowl as it turns.

Then all that is needed is to shorten the left tie rod and lengthen the right one an equal amount. I am amazed that a garage can't sort this out.

The problem is that most garages only adjust one tie-rod end to get the wheels aligned and this leaves the steering wheel off-centre. They should then make equal adjustments on both tie-rods to centralise the steering wheel. It is difficult to judge the centre position of the steering wheel when you're not actually driving so a road test is needed to check it's right. @netman82 What happens when you drive along a straight, flat road with your hands off the wheel? Does the car go straight with the steering wheel off-centre, or pull to one side or the other?

Then it must be Columbus and you can use any SD card to update it. Sorry to add to the confusion.

We need to make sure, OP's SD card is for Amundsen. @Hamster59 Does your satnav only work with your Skoda SD card plugged into the car?

I think that's an Amundsen unit which means you have to use a Skoda SD card.

Here's some bargain mats for you! https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-interior-floor-mats-prestige-grey-line-rhd/3v2061404a

The glovebox ventilation is always cold. Could it be that the heater output for the right-hand drive glovebox isn't blanked off in your left-hand drive car?

Thanks for the better pictures! The hex bolts, blobby welds and plastic coating leave me pretty confident this isn't part of a modern Skoda.

Don't recognise it myself but it looks aftermarket to me, clamp for a mudflap or part of a towbar perhaps. Google Lens comes up with a few suggestions, including a Volvo oil cooler. How big is it? Are the bolts welded to the plate? A better lit photo on a white background would help.

Sachs is a brand name of ZF who are one of the original equipment suppliers so they should be fine.

Best get it back to whoever deleted the DPF and get them to fix it then. Good luck at MOT time...

Smoke and lost power suggests an air leak between the turbo and engine inlet manifold. MAF fault occurs because less airflow is measured than the ECU expects. Smoke shouldn't be getting past the DPF though so there may other issues.

Clearing data and cache worked perfectly, thanks both.