D402

Exhaust pipe mounts?

G83 only appears in the 1.4 and 2.0 petrol engine sections of the pdf service manual I've got.

Uploading Attachment... Replaced rear shock absorbers. There was a bit more than 'light misting' going on with the old ones, and not a lot of damping! Car feels much more stable now and road noise is reduced.

I've just replaced the discs and pads on mine because of a similar vibration problem. The old pads were fine but the discs had discoloured patches and you could feel variations in friction as you ran a finger round them. My guess is that it was a material or casting issue with the discs. Anything similar on yours?

Have you changed any lights to LEDs? This can cause strange effects: DDTSB – TSBs for the Aftermarket - VW MQB Platform: One Wrong Bulb Causes Bizarre Electrical Faults

Replaced front discs and pads which has cured the brake judder I was suffering ☺️

Very similar problem here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/533413-oil-temp-reaches-90c-vehicle-starts-jumping/ was solved by replacing the crank sensor.

Could be the 'voice enhancer', not the best feature of the car...

You get this message any time your phone doesn't bluetooth to the car at the start of a journey.

Good job on the diagnosis 👍 Get some penetrating fluid onto the sensor now to give yourself the best chance of it coming out on Sunday!

It's very strange, there should be codes logged to cause the faults displayed on the infotainment. I'd be tempted to unplug a sensor to see if that known fault gets logged and can be read by a scan tool. My suspicion is that either some wiring was damaged during the mechatronic change or the software updates have messed up communication to the scan tool and/or between modules causing the faults you're seeing. Did the faults start immediately you got the car back, and are they persistent or intermittent?

But which one? With no fault codes, we don't really know what's going on. @Shanew Do your scan tools read faults from ABS etc, or just engine ECU?

Based on using ECE 1 on a 16gb card, ECE 3 will fit, ECE 4, 5 and 7 might fit.

@Stonechip The old discs and pads were Brembo, the new ones are Delphi. The Brembo discs were fine but I wasn't impressed by the pads - braking wasn't as strong as the OE pads and they produced lots of dust, also that one pad wore much more than the others which makes me suspect the friction material broke up or detached from the backing plate. No complaints about the Delphi pads or discs so far. Unfortunately, I still have brake judder so will have to do the fronts as well, and I found a leaking shock absorber too 🙄

It's a roll pin so you can just press it back in with any suitable tool, I used a vice.

You've not done this have you?

Replaced the rear brake pads and discs again, they only seem to last about 36k miles. Nearside pads were ok but the inside of the disc was rusty: Offside disc was ok but inner pad was completely worn out, must keep a better eye on them.

I used Carista (phone app with bluetooth OBD adapter) which was the cheapest option at the time and worked fine.

Better luck at 123,456, bonus points if you remember to reset the trip meter at 122,667!

You do not need to leave the ignition on after putting the EPB into service mode so no need for a battery charger. Make absolutely sure that the brake caliper, pads and discs are fully assembled before doing the 'end lining change'.

Very interesting, thank you for monitoring and analysing 👍 Do you think the often quoted recommendation to drive on the motorway in a low gear to complete a regen might make things worse?! The problem I have is that I often do a journey where a stretch of dual carriageway close to home triggers a regen but isn't long enough for it to complete.

Here you go, looks like it won't be easy https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/379864-se-and-se-business-drls/

Have you by any chance changed the boot lights from normal bulbs to LED and left an interior light switched on? This situation causes my car to repeatedly switch off then wake up again. It's fine with all interior lights switched off.

Check that the steering wheel isn't rubbing on the steering column cowl as it turns.

Then all that is needed is to shorten the left tie rod and lengthen the right one an equal amount. I am amazed that a garage can't sort this out.