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nige8021

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Everything posted by nige8021

  1. The ACC wouldn't work on mine while it had the fault
  2. Common problem across the VAG range I had exactly the same set of warning lights/messages on my Touareg last year, replaced the rear left ABS sensor £90 from VW
  3. Have a look at https://www.tayna.co.uk/ they will be cheaper than halfrauds
  4. The #10 in the diagram coming from the fuse goes to the main central locking unit and A23 feeds the two bulbs in the boot area
  5. Most Tesco filling stations have a selection of bulb kits
  6. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2001-252/9/941-941025/
  7. Have you scanned it for any fault codes as they will give an idea of what is causing the problem. The other easy to check is the fuseable links on top of the battery, they an fracture and cause low voltage to the pump/controller you need to look very closely as the fractures are hard to spot again this would throw up a fault code for low voltage
  8. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224911330904?hash=item345dc28e58%3Ag%3AkrkAAOSw~I1iQ3jp&LH_All=1
  9. That's the engine but it's also fitted in the Octy
  10. In that case look for a 1.9tdi with the 130bhp ASZ engine, you'll get performance when you want it and economy when your just pottering around town
  11. It's a 1.8 turbo performance spec engine so the fuel consumption isn't going to be great, also as it's the VRs expect to pay more for insurance
  12. They are good for taxis but the diesel will give around 50mpg and the VRs petrol lucky to get 30mpg that's why the taxis use the diesel ones
  13. Most cabbies used the poverty spec diesels not a VRs
  14. Specified values of the sender Voltage on the front sender when the vehicle is stationary without load: 2.3 - 2.8 V. Voltage on the rear sender when the vehicle is stationary without load for front-wheel drive: 1.9 - 2.3 V. You should find these voltages in the measuring blocks for the headlight modules 29/39
  15. The switch sends a ground to the flap motor the 12v supply should be on pin 2 of the flap motor at all times
  16. I use one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313819311156?hash=item491116ac34:g:p30AAOSwbYNh1HF8 on any VAG connectors it hooks into the release tab, push the connector onto the item then lift the tool and pull it outwards
  17. Are you willing to risk corrupting the modules in your car/s with a chinese knock off cable ?? potentially costing you many £K to get replaced, you won't have that worry with a genuine lead from Gendan (Ross-Tech UK supplier) and you'll be able to use it with the latest software version unlike the copies that are stuck on earlier versions, the VIN limit 3 or 10 only applies if you do any re-coding just reading fault codes doesn't count in the limit
  18. If it was my car I would be doing a compression test to confirm the state of the piston/bore & valves also a "Sniff test" on the coolant to see if there was evidence of combustion gasses getting into the coolant and the compression test might highlight that as well, and probably as I've recently bought the kit, do a pressure test of the coolant system again this could confirm the results from the compression testing & sniff test
  19. That normally happens when the door lock micro switches are playing up, the system sends the lock signal and looks for the confirmed lock signal but if the lock signal is missing it unlocks that door as it thinks it's open, a VCDS scan should highlight the problem, the door locks are cheap on eBay they are Chinese copies but seem to work well
  20. Have a look at this there might be someone near you who will clear the code for a few beer tokens, cheaper than taking it to the local main stealership
  21. Advert says 12 months MOT ??
  22. With the ECU as fitted on your car, disconnecting the battery will not do anything to reset the ECU that trick only really works on the very early cars with fuel injection
  23. Disconnecting the sensors should of caused no problem to them or the ECU just the ECU has noticed they were disconnected and logged the fault codes, so just delete them and re-scan
  24. I've only seen the sensor with no long lead and it's a bitch to remove
  25. Seems the G28 sensor does terminate in the dipstick area #2 in the picture

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