nige8021

This is the connections to the vacuum distribution box N239 Variable intake manifold flap change over valve N75 Charge pressure control solenoid valve N18 EGR valve On engine shut down the N239 will be commanded to close, if that valve is clogged up with carbon deposits it might be taking longer to close and that's why you can hear the valve pulsating trying to close the valve

If there was nothing on the MOT it might be the "Dog-bone" link on the gearbox then

Jack it up safely (axle stands) and you'll soon tell if it is the CV joint

I had one of those Ezi-Bleed kits when they first came out ( late1970's) and found you needed to lower the spare tyre pressure to under 10psi (5psi worked best) otherwise the cap didn't seal on top of the reservoir, hopefully they have improved the seals since

Sounds more like a CV joint than a steering rack fault

That is the vacuum distribution box there are only solenoid valves inside no motors

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2014-697/8/867-867080/#20 #20

I used that eBay seller that @Carlston mentioned and for £2.86 I had the full PR code list (5 pages) it included some that wasn't listed on the build spec sheets I got from my local stealership

The bolts are listed as M8 x 70 and generally (but not always) the triple square tool is at least 2mm above the bolt size but @Pete_Ex-Wino PDF will point you to the correct size

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203039458429?hash=item2f4618447d:g:8lAAAOSwCzBhUxbT

Can you reach under the car and attach a jump lead to either the big bolt on the starter motor or the alternator ?

This will give you the OEM part numbers https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2003-225/ you might need to go back and select the correct year as you don't state what year you have

My version of the wiring diagrams doesn't cover the 2016 Octy but the same engine code is fitted in the VW Touran & Seat Leon and they only show 1 coolant temp sensor. The other thing is you seem to contradict yourself, in the first post you say it gets to 90c in a about 5 mins then your second post, after the 10~15 min drive to work it's only showing 80c ??

5/28 means pin 5 of the 28 pin door disconnect plug

There are three Grey + tracer wires, Grey/Violet pin 1 on switch unit to pin 11 on door control unit ( rear window isolation switch) Grey/Blue Pin 3 switch unit to pin 8 door disconnect (Backlighting supply) & Grey/White Pin 5 control unit to pin 5 door disconnect (LIN)

According to Elsawn that is the location for the G28 crankshaft sensor 👍 Removing and installing engine speed sender -G28- Special tools and workshop equipment required tHose clamps -MP 7-602 (3094)- Removing –Remove the sound dampening system →Body Work; Rep. gr.50. –Pinch off coolant hoses at oil cooler with hose clamps -MP 7-602 (3094)- und disconnect the hoses from the cooler. For vehicles with engine identification characters BMS –Remove oil filter holder –Release fixing screw -arrow- through the opening in the cylinder block and remove engine speed sender -G28-. For vehicles with engine identificationcharcters BNM, BNV –Unscrew fixing screw and remove engine speed sender -G28-. Install Installation occurs in reverse order for removal, while paying attention to the following: Tightening torque of engine speed sender -G28-: tHexagon screw (Combi) M6x16: 9 Nm. tTwelve-sided bolt M7x18: 13 Nm.

Not sure if it's like the system in the Touareg but I had to first go through a setup procedure where you had to repeat a set of words/phrases so it could recognise your voice

Have a look at this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/ @Pete_Ex-Wino might be able to help you ?

It's relay D2 in the above picture under the dash drivers side, I would pull it out and just make sure the contacts are clean, if it persists probably replace the relay

This is the wiring diagram from the dealers manual So you will need to install the relay (D5 in the picture below) and the two wires from fuse # 36 a wire from the relay to the onboard power supply unit under the dash to pin 8 of the 11 pin brown connector and finally a wire from the relay to the washer pump

As it's an auto, it could be the starter inhibit relay

There is a single wire from pin 5 of the 16 pin connector on the unit that goes to the engine ECU

@Tech1e is the best person to advise on this as he does cruise control retrofts

Looking at the wiring diagrams it will need a new clockspring and there should be an electronics unit within the steering wheel to connect between the switches and the clockspring and probably a new steering wheel control unit

The NOCO one you can leave it connected forever ( just don't try starting the engine with it connected ;)) as it enters a float/conditioning mode