TheClient

If its the intercooler pipe and it is bubbling, then that will leak boost when turbo is spooled. But at idle its not under positive pressure. As there,s no turbo pressure and the engine vacuum will pull the intake air through. I dont have a tdi but if i am looking at that photo correctly is the rubber connecting hose with the spring clip connected to the elbow? They would normally be used on coolant lines, not boost pipes..

Its bolted to the turbo that much is clear. Either the diverter or wastegate actuator. There is definitely oil around but it's clearly coming from above, so is it definitely this part? Or something else above? Need to look from top / photo from top for a different view. After that, if unsure, clean it all up and go for a drive and re-inspect.

What model is it, hatch, kombi? Magneti morelli are usually a decent aftermarket option if there is one that fits. 2013?

Well, the gen 3 ea888 are generally well regarded but that's not to say they never ever ever fail in a serious way or ever need repairs..... Your concern is genuine. As the car has been traded and sold on to you and within short time shows a eml and fault.. Is it bad luck, did the last owner trade it due to the issue.... all unknowns. It really depends if the faultl is easily resolved permanently or if there is a nasty deeper level cause that lingers. Misfires easy solutions tend to be plugs, coli packs, more expensive injectors, very expensive valves or piston rings... 30 days is a statutory return period. You also have 6 months statutory protection edit; for repair, with the selling dealer if they are still trading, that presumes faults in first 6 months existed from the start....regardless of any third party insurance warranty document. If you can get it repaired by the dealer within 30 days and it gives you enough time to try and drive fault free for a little while before the 30 day expiry that would be ideal. But may not be possible....

I've had one or two leak before a bit. I jave put up until next change. So long as the plug is secure. They rotate 1/4 or 1/2 turn. You cant tighten further. I'm sceptical if genuine plugs are any better than any generic replacement but you could try. They're like £10 a pop though. I don't think I've ever used the genuine ones, so mine having leaked, will be using cheapo equivalents.. My sump is genuine though but have had to replace the gasket once.. What make is your sump, do you mean genuine (oem) or after market named equivalent?

I think its less the dealers and more the whole manufacture to supply chain and related distriution. I dont thi k dealers are making excessive profits on part sales. They are captive as are the cnsumers who want to buy genuine marked parts. But as said by others you can shop around and find equivalents. If its just a copper crush washer elring do them. If the sump bolt is in good condition, re use!! The plastic plug for the plastic sumps on tge 2 litres are now also over £10 i believe!!

Very very likely to be the electro mechanical thermostat. Commonly referred to as a water pump issue because the water pump is bolted on the side. It almost never is the actual water pump though. You can monitor actuator angle with a proper scan tool. Often what happens is the leak will kill the pcb and then the thermostat will not work.

Possibly cam cover sealant leaking. Very common 60k miles plus.

Mods. May need to move to mk4 forums. @Tonyduncan it would be a radar unit behind the bumper. They will charge you if it turns out to be just debris as they probably feel that would be caught under maintenance. However, if the unit or wiring is faulty, I would expect they would need to cover all the work.

other posts refer to limited success replacing with usually good oem equivalents. I'e. pieburg, bosch etc... There's probably 2 electric pumps too - have you got the right one? Other fault finding stream would be wiring tracing.. Start at the connector end and trace and test. A wiring diagram will be needed to help. Have you tried unplugging the pump momentarily and see what ECU error is reported. does it change to open cct??

Yeah. Well the park selector error is just as you say, no harm on that. The others poibt towards battery, BUT generator no comms, maybe the root cause, you need to investigate that. I'd resolve that first and see if misfire problem remain. Seems unlikely all 4 plugs or all 4 coil packs would suddenly go intermittent faulty. But I couldn't say for sure. Have you had a look at plugs, when were they changed?

It's the low line HBA camera.

Rs are only 20mm lower. You need the option code for rs sports suspension or just call a dealer and ask to look the part up and order. There is a colour sequence on the springs to identify. In the workshop manual it records the height from centre of wheel to wheel arch for various suspension options. I didn't think eibach is much lower though... Those other wheels are 19s by the way, which should be similar overall rolling circumfrance but may look slightly different even on their own.

Yeah, I've had that with a lot of dealerships and I suppose you understand why, it's taking their resource time computer to look up parts for you . If you don't buy anything, nothing is recovered. But continues dealerships are just helpful... I'm not sure if you're referring to the wing mirror or the internal rear view mirror. And then glass only or entire fitting..

Cheapest option is to buy the spavesaver, foam insert and tool kit on eBay or the like from an auto recycled. Can you use the extra foam box section with a spacesaver? Could you use your existing? You will likely be able to buy anything that was optioned with the space saver from skoda (expensive) or an auto recycler. Google search "octavia mk3 space saver kit", and "octavia mk3 spare wheel foam storage".

Towards the end of this thread, you will see a photo of the plastic panel where the usb and aux module fit id say you need to remove that plastic panel to give you access to the two lugs in your photo. The one on the left has been damaged a bit but will probably still hold. I'm not sure of your vehicle ent system spec or age. Is it pre 2016? Or what you're trying to solve exactly. If its new functionality I'd say you will need new coding..

If you're paying a garage, that's probably about as good it gets. £80 to 100 per hour plus vat. 5.5hr scheduled time. Can always take longer if bolts stripped or flywheel locked. That Is over £550 labour, then parts on top which differs a bit depending on exact model and if your doing slave etc. (Recommended)..

Front console bushes and antiroll bar bushes. Google and search images ... do not spray anywhere near brakes or if windy where over spray will carry. Including inside surface of brake disc.

From my recollection. The one on the engine is the primary. The rad outlet is used for ecu monitoring cooling performance by looking at the temperature delta between the two. If you disconnect the main one, you loose the temp gauge and the engine will run crap. If the sensors are the same as my R they, which is 99.9% likely should be: Rad outlet 6A919501 latest rev possibly B Engine block 079919523 latest revision possibly J They are like £50 each and for the rad outlet you have to buy the oring and retainer in addition. Id probably test what you've got with a multi meter for resistance before splashing £100 plus fitting. A new retainer on the rad one is usually required as they rust due to the indented design on the rad unit. New clip is plastic. Aftermarkey equiv are available if you really want to replace at more realistic prices. Attached febi bilstein parts which should allow you to find other equivalents as well. Most come with oring and retainer but check.

Edit. May only apply if you have a tsi. Although wouldn't be surprised if diesel has two also... There's two. You'll probably need to buy genuine or autodoc is a pretty good source for oem equivalent. One is on block or head behind hpfp. The other is in the bottom return pipe of radiator. Have you monitored live temps to see if there is a problem?

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/288240-understanding-vw-skoda-dsg-dq200-failures-masterclass-srinivas.html

Sure. I understand. One of the common failures is the accumulator housing cracking. Look up / google search "DQ200 accumulator problem". There are other problems as well but that is one of the most common and involves the mechatronic. But I don't know if the squeek would be related. It didn't appear as a symptom in my quick review but I am not an experienced DQ200 rebuilder!

Well.. I know little about the DQ200..... Presumably that is what you've got. 7 speed, dry clutch. They have had a few problems. Yours you say is operating perfectly but has a dogs squeeky toy hidden in it... I don't enough about this transmission to say what it is. But it is constant cyclical so may be something to do with the oil pump or a regulator... If there is no driveability issue and no codes, and you really want to investigate all I could recommend is find a specialist in DQ200 transmission repairs they will probably recognise it straight away if it is a common scenario....

Yes, exactly. To the op I would just de mount the tank, drain it to a container clean prongs and replace original coolant. I have a feeling you've got oil contamination so the problems going to recur.

I'm not a mot tester but I wouldn't of thought it would fail. The failure is for warning lights of key systems, safety systems (airbags, abs, steering) or engine eml due to emissions implications. In my humble opinion I wouldn't of thought a dash message telling you about the position of your transmission selector is such a warning light. Just like a low coolant message is probably not a failure either.