TheClient

Ring end spanner with extension pole like a scaffolding pole?

Must be fed by that hole and an oil gallery then. See image on the Self Study Guide. Still I think you're more than likely to find an accompanying chain stretch problem than just the tensioner. You could try an tensioner replacement I guess. It wouldn't be the normal diagnostic process just replacing and not checking root cause. Can you remove and replace without removing covers? Looks like it may be possible. What have your oil change frequency been since 80k replacement? By the time you pull off the covers and dismantle for access you may as well replace anyway. The parts are not huge cost. Labour probably higher.

Springs can compress of course. But more likely the chain is worn stretched again. How frequent are oil changes? That's one contributing factor. So the one hole shown is fed by an oil gallery in the block wall?

To me the op video does possibly sound like a bit of timing chain noise. If it wasn't there after you replaced last time I'd get it looked at again.. A lot of the vw tsi engines have used hydraulic tensioner with a ratchet lock when engine turned off. Lots of those tensioner esp early revisions were prone to failure. Eg ea888 gen 2. I haven't worked on an ea111 but looked at this video out of interest. The main tensioner looks like a print loaded tensioner bolt, not hydraulic. The key cause of a problem and noise (apart from the tensioner spring compressing over time) is timing chain stretch. Once the chain stretches beyond the point the tensioner can cope you end up with noise from chain, possibly rubbing and a risk of skipping teeth. The bolt tensioner on ea888 gen 3 is used an one of the other chain I.e. balance shafts pr oil pumps can't rember which off hand. This is a decent video of the issues and tear down. If the chain is stretched tensioner bolt replacement will do nothing really to solve. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DsuJk4u0yS4U&ved=2ahUKEwiajPjfp9z4AhWGQkEAHbVuDFsQo7QBegQIChAF&usg=AOvVaw1Wqo2rgr8OIC9DCCgDiG66

Ok. I've marked your post as liked. Let's leave this one there. Tks A

Let us know what your inspection brings. Yours is bound to be the old tensioner design with the retainer ring. Look how far it is extended. In the cylinder bores see what you can see but any cylinders that say showed piston collision or intake valves open accross more than one cylinder would be an issue. If your comfortable. Compression test after that. Well I'm pretty mechanically minded. Used to have motorbikes as a kid and a 240z track day car.. On the timing chain. It is doable. I chose to pay an independent to do it for me at purchase. Mostly because I don't have a garage, have to work on a gravel drive and at very least you probably need a engine sling to support removal of engine mount, a vw timing tool kit with camshaft lock and a crank shaft counter hold tool. Edit. Plus two more things. 1. If it takes an experienced tech say 5 hours,it would take me 2 days also, without a lift undoing things like the crank bolt are very difficult from ground level. Even when I've done jobs like brakes, caliper carrier bolts from lying on ground - can be very difficult. But the job is doable fir the persistent and detail minded diyer. Let us know how you get on with inspections.

Yes OK. I can see the blue one says its set at 2.5 bar. But as Pete discussed it won't matter which one you test out of. I'm always a bit dubious of cheap pattern parts. Always try to buy respected aftermarket brands if not genuine. Even then, there is always a small chance of new faulty part. But as you've got the oil pressure guage, assuming it is accurate enough it should show you what is happening do you think the oil pressure dtc is being recorded under or over 2k rpm?

Checking level / changing oil would be a first start wouldn't it? It is a combined transaxle isn't it, same oil used for both. Although, I agree at 55k its not a lot of miles and vw always say sealed for life but it is where I would start if you can't physically detect anything with the cv joints. Like driving in a car park on full lock. Can you hear the noise when underway on a smooth road and changing direction?

Thinking One is probably a temp sensor.? Could check by unplugging.. edit. Seems two oil pressure switches set up at different pressures. Possibly one for idle to 2k rpm, other used above that.

I had a 2011 and I didn’t remember the 2x switches,,,! Anyway, good photo. I’m intrigued why two switches into the same gallery? I could understand at 2 different locations say pre oil filter or post or somewhere else on engine!

@J.R.your such a pedantic thing 99% of the time and respond with something which I agree is more correct engineering vocabulary wise, but in context doesn’t change the suggestions. Turning puts the cv components under stress. on the subject of being pedantic you offer suggestions for both the mk1 and mk2 but this thread is in mk2. Although, I can see the OPs profile it suggests mk1. The description at beginning specifically identifies mk2. maybe some clarity would help you or others target answers better. For the benefit of others here is an image of a cv joint. A mk1 explanation of traction control is probably not that relevant in a mk2 bkd.

Ok. I’m afraid I’m confused with your description. Yours is a 2010 vrs. Ccza engine code. there is only one oil level sensor in the sump. there is an oil pressure switch somewhere near the oil filter and oil cooler bracket from memory. Is it those two things you’ve replaced. Please list part numbers you replaced with. was the red oil can coming up on the dash as well? If all the switches have been replaced with good items then it could be a wiring or ecu fault. Or…. There is genuinely a low oil pressure fault. A garage or yourself could test with a screw in gauge…

Mine too. check that first. Otherwise could be a noisey diff, check levels in that too. Obviously when you turn lock you create different rotational speeds for the wheels on each side in the diff. You also flex the universal joints inside the cv joint. But you would already know all that.

Yes. Heaps of sources genuine and non genuine. Have a look at fablogix on ebay. Other vendors are available.

If you like watching repair videos here is one on the EA888 Gen 2 (your engine) it may be the 2.0 version but in very many respects is identical design. If you watch into a few minutes you will also see the inspection hole I referred to. If you have a small inspection camera you may prefer to look inside the cylinders BEFORE doing a compression test as if the chain did happen to be loose and has not already caused valve damage, putting the engine on the starter could cause the collision. They also show a measurement that can be done on with the top timing cover removed. Not sure if it is identical for the 1.8 / 2.0 in terms of the mm spec but I'm sure some googling would answer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRAcxGdkcZU&t=84s

Ok. Wow those plugs sound terrible. Don't know how it wasn't causing running problems. It will have caused more stress on the coil packs too but you have bench tested. The ea888 gen 2 wasn't designed to use oil. The issue is the oil scaper ring clogging and then as the problem gets worse more and more oil is consumed. It eventually kills the engine but if your only just starting to see a slight increase I doubt you're there yet. What amount of oil in every how many kms are you putting in? The timing chain tensioner and in some cases the chain itself were poor design until at least end of first quarter 2012. The chain can stretch beyond limits of the tensioner. Even without tooth skip this can cause correlation timing faults. But it is a well documented issue with many engines suffering loose chains that skip teeth especially as initial startup when the ratchet is relied on in the tensioner rather than hydraulic pressure. There is an entire thread dedicated to the above 2 faults at the start of the forum pinned at the top. Don't read it, it will make you feel bad but the problems can be catastrophic and immediate. I'm still scratching my head a bit as to what to recommend. You could try the usual computer help desk fix of disconnecting battery and leaving for an hour then reconnecting. If you want to make the discharge faster touch the two batter leads together while disconnected. Other than that, for the relatively low price of a compression gauge I'd get one that will fit in the deep recesses of the engine cam cover / cam girdle and test compression on all cylinders. Beyond that the top tinmng cover can be removed to check timing. There is also a small rubber bung in the lower cover, that can be removed to look at the tensioner and how far it is extended when engine is static.

Mmm. You sound very knowledgeable and better at electronic testing than me and I class myself as handy! Anyway, I doubt it is the plug change. Although I've never used champion plugs in ea888 engines only the bosch or ngk aftermarket. When you say the old ones in terrible condition. What do you mean. Worn or oiled and fouled up? Does your motor have an oil consumption issue? The two things that immediately spring to my mind are 1) timing chain slipped. You know about the tensioner? This could be showing itself as rough running, now no start and the correlation fault or 2) faulty knock sensor or wiring to it causing engine misfire due to ecu intervention. But if signal tok high recorded not sure how much attention the ecu would be paying to that knock sensor.

There are a few other possibilities but 90% it is the microswitches at fault. The part numbers maybe superceded... Edit. There are also 2 versions of repair kit if memory serves me correctly. It may not though!!!!@ https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/36772-dsg-fault-experience/ If you have to pay, it might be worth investigating the (much) cheaper fix that VW USA developed to fix the problem. IIRC it adds a new piggy-back microswitch to replace the function of the faulty one that is part of the DSG gear lever. Have a look at the US recall code 37M2 for more details on what it is and how it works. IIRC I found it by googling the part number 5Q0713128A .

That is what I believe to be the case. That American lot can't be trusted to pulling on the handbrake or putting their car in park hence VW USA initiating recall non urgent rectification works or whatever. USA is a litigious environment!

There should be a repair kit available which is much, much cheaper. But otherwise, I don't think that fault is a problem in itself it depends if it could lead to any other related faults that leave you in the lurch...Seems unlikely if it has not done so as yet.. Review some other threads as well.

It's total guess work without hear it. Could be any number of items. Common culprits, fuel lines, under trays, cooling fans, engine shrouds or other plastic shields, turbo heat shield...... Is the car rough idling.?

Ha ha. That's a lot of text to argue with semantics without altering the conclusion. Anyway, a vacuum is the result of negative pressure. But I fear we may be heading of course. Yours was the fuller answer though!!

Yes, understand. And even skoda wording is often vague even within the 40k mileage specified. For example, at one stage, wording on skoda site was dsg oil and filter change, if required. Was the if required relating to the oil change the filter or both. Most now just seem to say dsg oil change. There are quite a few post where dealers weren't doing the filter. It's pretty difficult to do without removing the battery. A mark or tap edit: scratch in a non obvious place would do it so far as the filter housing being undone or not. But as others say, if you have a relationship with garage, maybe tell them you're nervous due to being burned before. It may help them understand and help with the trust!!! They may let you stay for example. I don't mistrust everyone with respect to car repairs but I do think a,lot can get missed or overlooked in a busy workshop skoda dealer or independent. I know when I do all the servicing myself I know what's done, any shortcuts and if I make a mistake, I've got no one else to blame!!

Don't think there is really. You could ask for the old filter and o ring for inspection. You could say put a bit of tape accross the filter housing that would need to be disturbed to remove....

The noise at the filler cap could / was most proably pressurised vacuum leaking slightly. The fuel system is pressurised including the fuel tank to prevent escape of those hydrocarbons into atmosphere. After 5 years or so it is not totally unheard of to need to replace the fuel filler cap due to the o ring compressing or decomposing. The release of pressure is nothing to worry about. As discussed above it is normal even if you haven't noticed before. The flutter - who knows. Monitor, see if it happens again. No Engine light I assume? You could get a scan if it really worries you.