AGFalco

Is it the wheel bolt that is missing or just the plastic cover? Thanks, AG Falco

Has it got a solid rear axle or independent rear suspension? Thanks, AG Falco

Faulty sensor or faulty signal? Can Carista show you live readings or just the fault code? Yes that is the sensor in the third photo. Thanks, AG Falco

So no fault codes now? Is the engine running well? Have you tried a tank of premium fuel ( Tesco Momentum ) and an Italian tune up? Thanks, AG Falco

Don't assume it is the sensor that is faulty. Normally a 22mm spanner is required. What / how did you use the Redex? Have you tried clearing the fault code first? Thanks, AG Falco

Is it this one:- https://static.garmincdn.com/autoOem/skoda/docs/UserManualUK.pdf Thanks AG Falco

I spray them with VHT paint ( Very High Temperature ) every autumn when I do the Brake maintenance. Panda is still on its original exhaust at 13 years and 133 K miles. Peugeot needed just a rear box at 11 Years because it rusted through underneath the box strap that I couldn't see / didn't paint. Mid pipe is still original at 19 Years old 140K miles. Thanks, AG Falco

Don't forget you are the other side of the slider pin so the direction to loosen is reversed. 🤔 Have seen someone break their tool bit trying to undo the wrong way. Thanks, AG Falco

Peugeot was inside garage from 2003 to 2005 but outside for the next 11 years. Panda had been inside an old damp garage, but is now outside. Fabia III was outside for first 3.5 years but now is inside a garage. I remove the calipers, rewind the piston, remove the pads and clean all touching parts between the pads and calipers. I remove any rust from the disk outer circumference as if left this will spread round and down the friction surfaces. This is especially relevant on the rear brakes. I then reassemble everything using new lubricant. After refitting the wheels and pumping the brake pedal, I spin the wheels to check for no noise / friction coming from the brakes. Thanks, AG Falco

Brake life can be increased if they are maintained / serviced regularly. Present Fabia III is from 2016 with 63K miles. Both front and rear pads are about 50% worn with no rust on the face of the disks. Fabia III brake pads are prone to sticking in the calipers as they don't slide in/on stainless steel sliders. They can get stuck where the pad rubs / rusts against the caliper. This is my rear disk / pad with the photo taken today. Present Panda is from 2009 with 133K miles. This has had a set of front pads at 45k, disks and pads at 90K. Rear shoes are still original but rear wheel cylinders have been changed. After market parts have lasted as long as original parts for me. Past Peugeot 307 from 2003 with 133K miles when sold. Two sets of front pads and one pair of front disks. Rear was on original disks but had one set of rear pads at 90K. All these cars get a regular / annual complete brake strip / clean / refit every autumn. This is what you want to do to make brakes last. It was worth doing even when the Fabia III was 5 months old. It also helps with better fuel economy as rusty / unclean brakes tend to create drag. A test you can easily do is to jack up a rear wheel, release the handbrake and then spin the wheel by hand. If you notice any noise / friction from the brakes then they need maintenance. Thanks, AG Falco

So do I. Thanks, AG Falco

This can be the downfall. Are they an asymmetrical tread pattern? Thanks, AG Falco

Do / did you put the summer tyres back in the same place they came from? Are they an asymmetrical tread pattern? Thanks, AG Falco

I downloaded and read the all the manuals to both my Skoda's before even ordering them. This also helped to make sure I ordered the extra equipment that I would use. At the same time I didn't order anything that would be a waste of money / not used. Thanks, AG Falco

I have done above 60 mpg full tank to full tank several times. This is working it out, not off the car display. Thanks, AG Falco Any good? 😉

Have you looked here:- Thanks, AG Falco

Yes. TPMS works using the wheel speed sensors. Each wheel has a speed sensor that sends a signal back to a computer. This compares the signals from all the sensors and it looks out for quick changes between the wheels. If one/some of the wheels start travelling at a different speed compared to the other wheel/wheels it can set of the TPMS. EG:- Or:- Tyre/tyres getting hotter than the rest of the tyres. Or:- One tyre deflating because of a puncture. Thanks, AG Falco

No more questions! Thanks, AG Falco

Were they on the sunny side or the shady side of the car? Thanks, AG Falco

Were the two low tyres on the same side? Thanks, AG Falco

Is this the same car as on page 75 of this thread from you? Thanks, AG Falco

Is this the H4 headlight bulb in the centre of the headlamp assembly. Is it this one:- Thanks, AG Falco

If it is like the 2016 one, there are several tabs at to bottom that need releasing ( from the inside ). I found a flat bladed screwdriver helped to start the unclipping of the tabs. Thanks, AG Falco

Any photos? Rule of thumb is from behind twist anticlockwise first to remove. From my manual:- ''Replacing the bulb for daytime running lights and parking lights- Variant 1 ( with H4 bulbs ) Fig. 175 Replacing the bulb for daytime running lights and parking lights  Read and observe and on page 136 first. › Turn the housing containing the bulb C anticlickwise. » Fig. 173 on page 137 as far as the stop in the direction of the arrow 1 » Fig. 175 Remove the housing containing the bulb in the direction of arrow 2 . back. › Change the bulb. › Insert the housing containing the light bulb in the lamp housing in the opposite direction to arrow 2 . › Screw the housing in the opposite direction to arrow 1 until it clicks into place.'' Thanks, AG Falco

The one above or below the number plate? Any photo's? Not on the 2016 one. Tabs to release. I have taken the lower one out on a 2016 Fabia after similar damage. I bought the bits from my local TPS. Thanks, AG Falco