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AGFalco

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Everything posted by AGFalco

  1. Just re read what I have posted. The emergency unlocking of the boot lid is mechanical only. The boot switch on the outside of the boot is electrical. I think if you have the engine running/ignition on the car locks the boot automatically? This stops 'tealeaves' opening the boot while you are stopped in traffic. There are also options in the infotainment as to what opens when you unlock the car? Don't think this will help but it might be worth checking / changing the setting. Thanks AG Falco
  2. Mechanical only, so if you have no power it will still work. So does your boot switch have power going to it? Thanks, AG Falco
  3. Correct hole. Unlocking the tailgate Fig. 174 Emergency unlocking of the boot lid The boot lid can be unlocked manually in an emergency. ›Insert a screwdriver or similar tool into the opening in the trim. ( the hole you noted ) » Fig. 174 as far as the stop. › Unlock the lid by moving it in the direction of the arrow. › Open the tailgate. You push the screwdriver blade in and then push the handle down, with the inserted blade going up. HTH. Thanks, AG Falco
  4. I thought that the Toyota Aygo 1.0 petrol had a Chain driven DOHC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_KR_engine#1KR-FE The 1.4 HDI is a Peugeot engine with a belt though. Thanks AG Falco
  5. I have had the Citigo for a year now and it is up to 41 K miles. Today I swapped the summer tyres for the winters. Stripped, cleaned and re greased the brakes, they look about half worn so far. Fitted a pair of front Bosch wiper blades. Also fitted an under bonnet sound absorber. Present part number is 1SO-863-831-A and comes with the seven clips to fit it. About two minutes work. See photo below. Car still good. Thanks, AG Falco
  6. Brake disk inner shield rusted through where the bolts hold it on to the hub? Thanks, AG Falco
  7. It would be useful to know which engine and gearbox you have? Thanks AG Falco
  8. Have you tried to polish the scruffy mark out. A detailing company might have something that will work. Thanks, AG Falco
  9. What about using a small permanent black marker like a `sharpie' to cover up the mark. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Fine-Black/dp/B01N9ZIRZY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=FFYVZW8OR8HR&keywords=sharpie+pens&qid=1667331110&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjE1IiwicXNhIjoiNC43MCIsInFzcCI6IjQuNDcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=sharpie%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-6 Thanks, AG Falco
  10. When charging a Stop / Start EFB / AGM battery you need to:- Use a smart charger and, Connect the Positive to the battery terminal, Connect the Negative to the earthing point on the inner wing. Note that the nut is painted so you need to attach it to the clip at the end of the earthing cable under the nut. See your manual for detail / diagram. Thanks, AG Falco
  11. See post above. Thanks, AG Falco
  12. Any use? https://powerflexstore.co.uk/skoda/fabia-nj-2014-on/ Thanks, AG Falco
  13. Lots of high speed motorway driving can wear the centre of the tyres quicker. Where as lots of hard cornering can wear the edges of the tyres quicker. Low pressure, alignment out, tyres not rotated would be three reasons. Thanks, AG Falco
  14. You can do the first MOT up to a month early, minus 1 day of it's 3rd birthday, if you provide the V5 log book and it will run out on its 4 birthday. So the expiry of the first MOT can depend on when you had it done and if you provided the V5 log book. Thanks AG Falco
  15. ^ Also agree with above. ^ North Dorset here, where B roads are the norm. I fitted Skoda mud flaps to both my Fabia and Citigo as soon as I bought them. lt also helps to cut the water spray on faster roads as well, not that there any fast roads around here. Thanks, AG Falco
  16. See this post:- Thanks, AG Falco
  17. See this post above. I bought the bits from TPS. ( Trade Part Sales which is a VW owned parts company ) They don't all sell to the general public, try this one:- https://tps.trade/info/centre-finder/tps-chester?postcode=CH1&location=53.2142574,-2.9372378&location_search=0 Thanks, AG Falco
  18. The over inflation does NOT cause the rumbling noise, that comes from the saw tooth inner edge of the ( rear ) tyres. Thanks, AG Falco
  19. Not always. If you don't want this to happen again then use these guidelines. Swap tyres from left to right every 6 months. ( as long as they are not directional tyres). Fit new tyres in pairs to the rear. If the fronts were the worn out ones then swap the older rears to the front also swapping diagonally at the same time. Do you do a lot of longer high speed journeys? Thanks, AG Falco
  20. Please up date us when fixed / solved. Thanks, AG Falco
  21. Try on a VW UP forum for more info:- https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+up+asg+overheating&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB917GB917&oq=vw+up+asg+overheating&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i546l5.9212j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 This won't have charged your battery enough. No. My Citigo recently went on a 500 mile round trip including stints on a motorway with no problem. Thanks, AG Falco
  22. On mine, surround and subwoofer only work with the source being from a phone or an SD card. Thanks, AG Falco
  23. Unless you have directional tyres fitted. Especially on the inside edge of the tyres. Thanks, AG Falco
  24. Has the fuse blown again. If so this can be a sign that the pump has blown. Not normally hard. Behind the o-s-f wheel arch inner liner. The one pump does both front and rear washers. It has two water pipes, one for the front and other for the rear. I would try and run power straight to the pump when you can see it, before you take it out. Connecting the power one way should / will make it pump one way. Reversing the wire should / will make it pump the other way. If the pump is working then check the windscreen wash wipe stalk. Thanks, AG Falco

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