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AGFalco

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Everything posted by AGFalco

  1. Hold your horses and look here first:- Thanks, AG Falco
  2. In this country it is setting the tyres to to 25 PSI when you need 2.5 BAR or vice versa. Other figures are available. Thanks, AG Falco
  3. Some people find the ride a little hard/bumpy. You might have also noticed that the higher pressure setting were listed for high load / fast speed. They are now listing them as an ECO setting as well. A lot of people think 30 PSI all round is OK. 😲 Some people even get the pressures checked once a year when the MOT is Done. 😲 ( PS. they don't get checked on an MOT. ) Thanks, AG Falco
  4. It is not just the viscosity that you want to get correct. The VW oil specification want to be correct as well. This can depend on the age of the car and wether the car is on fixed or variable servicing. Some details here:- https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php Thanks, AG Falco
  5. If the tyres have a low ( normal ) pressure the edges will wear faster. On a Fabia this will be more pronounced on the inside edge of the fronts and the outside edge of the rears. ( So if the fronts are being replaced move the rears diagonally to the front and fit the new tyres to the rear. ) If the tyres have an Eco pressure they will not wear the edges faster and will last longer. The Nexen's I replaced at 27K miles were worn flat with no extra edge or centre wear. I have replaced another 4 tyres ( two pairs ) since then and all were worn flat with no extra edge or centre wear. If the tyres are over inflated ( above Eco pressure ) they can wear the centres faster but still last longer. I see a lot of cars / tyres and very rarely see tyres that are worn out in the centre first. At least 75% of cars / tyres I see have the edges worn first especially the inside edges of the fronts. I have run all my cars on a higher / eco pressure for over 20 Years, it works for me. Thanks, AG Falco
  6. Good. Quite normal, especially if there is extra load for things like AC and electrical use. No. My Panda is 13 years old with 134K miles and still on original clutch with no sign of wear. I have had this from new. I know of one car that had a clutch every year ( for three years in a row that was doing less than 10K per Year ) due to poor driving skills / no mechanical sympathy. Incorrect. A higher pressure will reduce rolling resistance. This can increase tyre life and reduce MPG. On my Fabia I run 2.5 Bar all round and the first pair of Nexen's that were only on the front were changed after 27K miles. Last two fuel tanks were 59.9 and 64.3 MPG, and I very occasionally ( in Winter ) almost get down to 50MPG. 😲 Enjoy your new car. Thanks, AG Falco
  7. I have had a 1.2 TSI since June 2016 and it is now at 64K miles. I have hired a 1.0 TSI and driven over 1K Km in one. If the 1.0 TSI was my first TSI engine I would be very happy. For me the 1.2 TSI is slightly better. Yes the 1.2 has a little more guts at very low revs. I back the car up a slope and in to a garage ( every night ) and use just the clutch with no throttle used at all. I can also do this in my 1.0 MPI 3 cylinder Skoda Citigo. My first pair of front Nexen tyres were changed at 27K miles. Front and rear brakes are now about half worn at 64K miles. They recommend 0W-20 for these engines especially if the car is on variable servicing. VW 508.00 This specification 508.00 for petrol, requires a 0W20 viscosity, fuel economy oil with long life additives. These specifications are NOT backward compatible with the eariler VW specifications. I changed mine to fixed servicing from new and use a 5W-40 fully synthetic VW 502.00 oil. This also helps me as all three cars I own / Service can use this same oil. Bit late now as you are collecting it tomorrow but do you over think / over worry over things? Thanks, AG Falco
  8. Have you seen the service history. If it was done by Skoda, any Skoda dealer car print out the history from ERWIN. Thanks, AG Falco
  9. I have a Manual Citigo and my Brother has a ASG. Only consider the ASG if you have to, ( auto licence only ) and have driven one. Second hand cars are at a premium at the minute. It took me several months to find a good one last year. There is lots to look at before buying. Thanks, AG Falco
  10. AGFalco replied to LetsGo's topic in Å koda Citigo
    Correct, but for the average person after swapping the battery over they don't need to enter a code to get the radio working. Thanks, AG Falco
  11. AGFalco replied to LetsGo's topic in Å koda Citigo
    Via the OBDII port. Obdeleven can do it. A good tyre/battery shop should have a device. It might only be an EFB ( 027 ) in the Citigo with stop/start not an AGM. Should have either EFB or AGM marked on the top of the battery. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Non stop / start one is normally a 002L but a 012 will fit. This is more powerful at 50-54Ah compared to 40-45Ah for the 002L. You will find the bigger one is only a couple of £'s more so worth fitting. You just need to move the battery clamp bolt one hole further out. No. Thanks, AG Falco
  12. lumbar support adjustment handle? Come unscrewed? Screw it back on? Thanks, AG Falco
  13. The more expensive and leaks quicker type. 😲 Thanks, AG Falco
  14. I just use a tape measure and two fingers. Thanks, AG Falco
  15. Maybe I can't remember. 😶 This was over 40 years ago and I replaced it with the Sprint after only a short time. ( months ). The Sprint I do remember. 😊 Thanks, AG Falco
  16. Had Both:- 1854 cc single cam single carb. Triumph Dolomite HL Mustard yellow. Can't remember the Reg. Sprint was 1998 cc had single cam but 16 valves and twin carbs. WMY671S Blue with black vinyl roof. Thanks, AG Falco
  17. He is correct. 😲 I have got used to it on mine. Thanks, AG Falco
  18. In the second post of yours with photos attached, the tyre in the first photo does show an alignment problem. If you want your next tyres to last longer then running a higher pressure will help. I run my Citigo at 2.4 Bar on the front and the Fabia at 2.5 all round. Were any of these car as tall and heavy as this one? Modern cars were tyres faster than older cars. I can go in to the reasons if you want. Thanks, AG Falco
  19. Normal WD40 is a solvent. A spray with this on both hinges and especially the check strap in between both hinges. You want to spray in to the door cavity where the rollers are. Then exercise the door by opening and closing. Then lubricate the same bits with a spray grease like WD40 White Lithium grease. Then exercise the door by opening and closing again. The grease it better for long term protection / lubrication. Thanks, AG Falco
  20. Been driving for 45 years. Run three cars at the minute. At one point was driving 80K miles per annum. ( tyres were being fitted every couple of months ) Work at a place that will see 400 cars a month and has over 1600 tyres in stock and sell more than that every month. Don't assume that A rated wet grip tyres are soft. Do assume large tyres with low a profile can be softer. All the Bridgestone Turanaza's in 225 40 19 have noise rating of 72 dB , so higher than average. The recent noise ratings have had an effect on tyre hardness. Some tyres had to be made softer to pass these noise ratings. The tyre wear in your photos don't look correct to me. Is the top photo of your N-S-F tyre? What tyre pressure do you run? Thanks, AG Falco
  21. Alignment might not be correct from factory. Suspension parts can settle / move. Taller / heavier cars exert more pressure on the outside edges of tyres when turning. Using the loaded / high speed tyre pressures can help. Thanks, AG Falco
  22. If you push the start button but don't put your foot on the brake pedal will this turn the ignition on but not start the engine? ^ As above. ^ Thanks, AG Falco
  23. Is it this one:- Also available in white. Thanks, AG Falco
  24. Don't know. You also don't have the one shot window up function because there is no anti jam sensor's. ( unless you have electric windows on all four doors when it will do it on the drivers one only. ) Thanks, AG Falco
  25. For most cars the tyre will wear the inside edges more on the front tyres partly because of the camber. On most cars the front camber is NOT adjustable. Just rub your tyres to check for alignment issues. Perfectly normal as we do more turns to the right, so more pressure on the N-S tyre. Thanks, AG Falco

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