AGFalco

See above, space saver is listed as 125/70 R18. Thanks, AG Falco

Is it on the tyre pressure chart on the car. ( behind the fuel filler cap ) ? Thanks, AG Falco

It is in the bottom half and goes from where the pipe enters the tank up to the half way line. It is a mould line from when the tank was made. Have you replied to the last thread you started yet? Thanks, AG Falco

Try the socket on a new spark plug and you might find that to fit it into the socket is a firm push fit. This is so that when the spark plug is now NOT held in place by the thread it will still be still be stuck in the socket so that you can pull it out of it's hole. Thanks, AG Falco

Are these figures correct? At 50 mph in top my engine will be lower than 2000 rpm. Found this:- Top speed/rpm at 70mph 114mph/2,800rpm Thanks, AG Falco

Grab the driveshaft that is in the videos and check for movement. Try twisting the shaft both ways, and pulling/pushing, in/out, up and down. Thanks, AG Falco

It's just the symptoms fit, with the warmer weather, and people tend to notice things after a service. Thanks, AG Falco

Is it this:- Thanks, AG Falco

Yes so far. Unclip the electrical connector block to the back right of each coil pack. Undo the 10 mm bolt to the front right of each coil pack. Then gently pull up the coil pack. See here:- They can get stuck. There are tricks if that is the case. Thanks, AG Falco

I turn the stop / start off every time I start a cold engine and might turn it back on when the engine oil is above 75 C. But only if I will be stopped for say at traffic lights. Most of my journeys are NOT on urban traffic heavy roads though. 1.2 TSI petrol, last tank was 60MPG, original battery was tested last Saturday and is still very good after 6 years and 64K miles. Thanks, AG Falco look here for your answer:-

As above. Anti roll bar drop link / stabiliser bar link. Thanks, AG Falco

Fourth MOT and Seventh Fixed Service done today at 64K miles. Had the MOT booked today for 9.15 but I dropped it off about an hour early. This time ( see my Skoda Citigo post ) they rang me a 9.18 to say all done. Clean MOT again, but with the car warning me a service is due within 500 miles I did that next. This is a small Oil and ( Bosch ) Filter change and inspection service. Same filter as the Citigo uses. Used 4 more Litres of the ( 20 litre container. ) oil I have. Still got enough oil to do the Panda which is due in August. Brakes not much different from the post above. Battery still good and nothing else untoward found. Scanned the car for faults ( None ) and reset both the service and inspection warnings using OBD11. Updated Erwin with the service history. Cost was:- Tax £20.00, MOT £35.00, oil filter £6.00 and Insurance gone down to less than £200.00 per annum. But fuel costs:- this week to fill £67.00, six months ago £57.00 and a year ago it was only £50.00. 😲 Next service is big with oil, cabin filters and spark plugs due, and I will do the air filter as well. Car still good with nothing gone wrong and still enjoy it. 😀 Thanks, AG Falco

Also grease the check strap that goes from the bolt in to the door after you have tightened the bolt up. Thanks, AG Falco

My TSI will show 90 C on the temperature gauge between 1 and 2 miles from a cold start. This is NOT accurate, and when I want to find the correct water temperature I will use OBD11. The oil temperature display on the MFD will only show oil temperature from 50 C and above. It will display ' - - - ' when the oil temperature is below 50 C. From a cold start the oil will reach 50 C from 2 to 4 miles. The colder it is outside the longer it takes. After 12 miles it will be between low 80's C and low 100's C The hotter it is outside the higher it gets. I find the car engine can keep its heat for a long while after you turn the engine off. There are two coolant circuits and two thermostats on this engine. One circuit is for the Cylinder Head with a thermostat that opens at 87 C. There is no exhaust manifold and the Turbo is mounted directly on to the Cylinder Head. The exhaust ports/pipes in the Cylinder Head are surrounded by coolant waterways. This circuit supplies the heat / hot water for the cabin. ( very quickly ) There is a coolant temperature sensor on the back of the cylinder head, G62. The second circuit cools the Cylinder Block and has a thermostat that opens at 105 C. There are two coolant pumps on this engine. One mechanical which is in the ( 2 ) thermostat housing and is driven by a belt from the exhaust camshaft. This is on the gearbox side of the engine at the top. The second coolant pump is electrical and is on the front of the engine. V188. ( Was this the one that was changed on your car Hetty1? ) This can / will run when the engine is turned off and supplies coolant to the Turbo at the same time. Also on the front of the engine there is both an oil cooler and a charge air cooler that uses the coolant. So there is no air to air intercooler behind the front grill. There are also two coolant radiators behind the front grill. The lower one for the electrical coolant pump. The higher one for the coolant coming from ( 2 ) thermostat housing. This also has a coolant temperature sensor on the return flow. G83. THT Thanks, AG Falco

When I want to find the real water temperature I use OBD11 not the dash gauge. Pump not working / pipes blocked / thermostat not working? Thanks, AG Falco

Water temperature guages tend to ( after the engine getting hot ) to just stay at 90 C irrespective of the actual water temperature. Unless it gets very hot when it will rise. Do you have a MFD ( Multi Function Display ) that can show you the oil temperature. I find this will show you the temperature of the engine better. My Fabia will show 90 C water temp. within 3 miles of starting the engine. But after 12 miles the oil temp. can be between low 80's C and low 100's C. depending on outside temp. Thanks, AG Falco

Thank for the info. Makes sense as it has motorkennbuchst on it ( which translated means Engine Code ) Thanks, AG Falco

According to VW UK. The cam belt manufacture recommends it is inspected at 160 K miles and then every 20 k miles thereafter. The inspection is easy to do. See this thread:- Thanks, AG Falco

I can only here the pump start when I turn the ignition on. Car is always locked and in a garage so there is no distracting noises. I normally open the passenger door first on a work day. Again no pump noise on either door opening. Thanks, AG Falco

With mine the fuel pump:- does not start when you unlock the car. does not start when you open the car door. does start when you turn the ignition on. I always turn the ignition on, then put my seat belt on, then start the car. A habit I developed from older Diesel engines. I have noticed this on my Fabia. As they say, not so noticeable when it IS cold. The first time you start driving the car there is a slight hesitancy. Never bothered me. Thanks, AG Falco

Mine was delivered in June 2016 as a factory order so build just before. I have inspected the fuel rail/injector bolts and all is good on mine. Now up to 64 K miles on mine now with problems at all. Probabally would have happened by now if it is/was going to happen. Thanks, AG Falco

I have noticed this on my Fabia. As they say not so noticeable when it IS cold. The first time you start driving the car there is a slight hesitancy. Never bothered me. Thanks, AG Falco

Winter tyres now swapped for summers. ( did about a month ago ) Only needed 1 tyre as I had a new summer that was on the spare wheel. Both fronts new and rears about half worn. Removed O-S-R wheel arch liner to check for rust around fuel filler spout. All good but sprayed with another layer of paint just in case. The liner definitely stops any mud build up under the rear wheel arches. Thanks AG Falco

Is it the wheel bolt that is missing or just the plastic cover? Thanks, AG Falco

Has it got a solid rear axle or independent rear suspension? Thanks, AG Falco