Warrior193

On one of the GPS screens (in settings/split-screen, I think), there is a function that displays the number of satellites currently in view - if an antenna fault is causing your issue, this will show how many are being received.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You shouldn't need to reset your location - the GPS receiver does all the locating automatically when it boots up and 'sees' sufficient satellites for a fix. Most likely you have a problem with your GPS antenna. What is your vehicle and what infotainment system - Amundsen MIB2?

That appears to be identical procedure to Mk3.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Take it back to the servicing garage and politely request that they complete the job.

To a point, I agree - but using cruise in suitable conditions can help reduce fatigue on a drive by not needing to maintain a fixed throttle position for long periods. No substitute for regular rest stops, but it is useful.

...And don't forget that the constellation is orbiting, so there is a constant rising and setting of individual satellites.

If you can and you don't have a frowning salesman sitting alongside, try doing a timed run 0-60 somewhere safe.

Possibly - but will still cause issues.

The turbo on my 1.4 starts boosting at around 1200 rpm and really gets going at around 1500, AFAIK, the 1.5 is supposed to be similar. The boost isn't like lighting the blue touch-paper, but has a pretty wide power band.

Your comment that the fuel 'looked a bit sludgy' will require fixing too - clean fuel is an absolute critical item, particularly with a diesel.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked that the fuel pump is delivering fuel at the correct pressure?

That would seem a little unlikely as the vehicle should have still been under warranty for at least the second service.

The 1.5TSI cambelt replacement is a fair bit more complicated and expensive than the older 1.4 - but that will not be due until about 120K miles. I've always thought it a little odd that the 1.5TSI had exactly the same power output as the 1.4!

I think there may have also been issues with stretching cam chains on some EA888s - just done a little checking, the Gen2 engine was revised to Gen3 in 2011. I think if the 1.8 was a very good price, I'd take the risk - but it would have to be in really great condition and I'd want a good long test period before accepting.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, the issue with some EA888 engines wasn't due to lack of regular maintenance, I'm not certain, but 2012 would probably be a Gen2 engine. Some owners appear to have had no issues, but there can be serious issues with excess oil consumption from poor quality piston rings used during manufacture. Take a good read through the forum regarding EA888s - and check the V5 document of the 1.8 for any fairly short ownerships which might indicate a vehicle being quickly passed-on after discovering problems.

Falling to 11.4 volts, your battery SOC is less than 10% and considerably below the 'danger point' of discharge! Get the battery properly tested.

Thanks Paul, sounds like a really useful discovery if it works across other models and years - I'll try it out on our Octavia and Fabia.

12.9 volts on no load does not necessarily mean the battery is OK - after being charged, what does the voltage drop to now while the engine is being cranked? Anything lower than about 10.5 volts while cranking means the battery is failing - the sensors and control modules will certainly malfunction if the supply voltage drops too low at any time.

I'd consider turbo lag to be non-existent in both the 1.0 and 1.4TSIs

The 11.3 volts indicated on the bottom line of that scan report is very likely an indication for the cause of fault. Strongly suggest a proper load test on the battery.

Has the 12volt battery been tested?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is the headlight switch in the 'Automatic' position? Not sure for the Mk4 - but I seem to recall that the Mk3 requires this for CH/LH to operate.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the red indicator led on the key fob flash when a button is pressed? AFAIK, the emergency (physical) key only unlocks the door it is mounted on.

At the very least, the battery is failing. Worth giving it a full charge, if possible, to confirm condition.

Just a note, the terminal voltage will register a little lower than true SOC if not all of the vehicles' control modules are in 'sleep mode' as they will be loading the battery by drawing current.