Warrior193

It is important to remember that one part of the fuel use equation is distance travelled - this is measured by the vehicles mileometer - which (in UK) is not permitted to under-read by any percentage at all, but is allowed to over-read by up to 10% - this means that the fuel use equation will almost invariably assume the distance travelled is up to 10% more than is actually the case. (Road Vehicle (construction & use) 1986)

Engine code is first 3 or 4 characters of the engine number - found on your V5 document, also usually on the B pillar sticker.

Is your engine TDI - or TSI? Can you post your engine code (first 3 or 4 characters of engine number) If TDI, there are many references to faulty crankshaft position sensor being responsible for intermittent fail to start issues.

I don't think so, but I have seen references to fuel pump impulses being used to measure it.

It is not unusual for the vehicles onboard fuel computer to read differently to actual calculated usage, often optimistic (as is yours) - very likely to be a calibration tolerance in manufacture. AFAIK, the system measures the flow through sensors in the fuel line, so there is ample scope for calibration error. I believe there is a method for adjusting the calibration via VCDS - a pity that there isn't a simple way for owner to apply an offset to fuel computer algorithm without using special tools.

I have found a reference to J745 on a VW forum - it is a control module for cornering lights and headlight range - so very probably the cause of your lighting fault. Were you charged for this repair? Did the software update in March fix the other issues?

Are you able to post a slightly wider image of it? - If it's hidden behind a cover on the steering column, not likely to be the OBD port.

As no one other than Dealer or Skoda Assist have worked on vehicle, any damage would be by them or pre-existing, in either case, clearly there should be no cost to you for the repair. Have all the faults now been fixed?

Hello, welcome to the forum. That appears to be the OBD port, can you confirm? Can you confirm if anyone, apart from Dealer and Skoda Assist, have worked on your vehicle? Pin-socket most likely has been damaged by clumsily plugging-in diagnostic reader, some ports are rather awkwardly positioned, requiring a little care in when using.

Have you found a resolution for this yet? Did it feel like the clutch was slipping?

Important to remember that the charger Amp rating is the max. current capacity available unless it is a 'constant current' type - the charger will rarely (if ever, apart from fully discharged battery) charge at the max. rate, with the amperage progressively reducing as battery SOC increases.

Surely isn't that only because it hasn't been submitted for certification - not because it doesn't actually meet current emissions. Why would a 2024, 1.4TSI not still be at least compliant with Euro 6?

It shouldn't be a real problem getting it registered or insured - there must be allowances in the system for imported vehicles. Probably get head-shot here, but I think the 1.4TSI non-ACT is the better engine.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If your query is because of the changed pitch of the spring, top to bottom - this will be to give the spring a progressive rate as it is compressed. Do you really want to have to practically come to a standstill over 'Traffic calming' obstructions?

Quite interesting that North America and other markets retained the 1.4TSI instead of adopting the 1.5. - Also using the Aisin TC box instead of DSG in Canada and the States. I have often wondered why the 1.5TSI did not increase output from the 1.4 when it was introduced, I would have expected at least a 10 to 15PS increase with the higher CC.

Could it be something as simple as the option being unticked in the options menu? Can the mirrors be moved using the manual adjustment control?

Then just wait until you see Egyptian geese perching in a tree.

If you can, make a close inspection of the wiring loom connecting the rear hatch/trunk lid to the body - a fairly common fault is for the wiring to break where it flexes. The battery won't be the cause of any power surges - if that is the problem, it would be more likely to be a faulty voltage regulator on the alternator - however, on reflection, a faulty battery could allow more DC electrical ripple (noise) into the vehicles system, although this shouldn't really affect standard filament lamps.

Hello Ryan, welcome to the forum. I cannot think of any fault, other than overvoltage - or a loose mounting (more so for a halogen lamp), that would cause a lamp to 'blow' - are these filament type brake lamps you are using? Are you able to use a meter to check that the voltage regulator is operating correctly?

Especially when viewed from ahead or astern at high angle of attack.

Better to wait for compression test/diagnosis of fault, it could simply be one of the new plugs is duff - or a coil pack is failing. Faulty piston rings would require a full engine rebuild, which could well be uneconomic. Even a straightforward head rebuild could be more than £1500.

I was over there in July visiting eldest sister, great for winter!

The online forms often have a 'checkbox' for imported vehicles - this might get you past the rego issue.

Try Compare the Market or quotesearcher.co.uk for insurance alternatives.

Ah, I see from your profile you were in WA. Welcome back, you're going to find the temperature a bit of a shock.