Warrior193

@deryanmoj did you find a home for that connecter, did reconnecting it clear the faults?

I'd say that is clearly a stress crack and should be covered under the warranty.

Welcome to the forum. Does the lower part of the crack extend all the way to the bottom of the screen? Yes, stress cracks to screen can be caused by body flexing, or by incorrect fitting.

AFAIK, this is normal behaviour for the smart alternator, you will probably see higher SOC with longer trips where regenerative charging has more opportunity to top-up the charge. Sulphation is a normal, reversable process of the chemical reaction within lead acid cells, where small crystals of lead sulphate form on the cell electrodes (plates). When the cell SOC remains significantly below 75% for prolonged periods, the lead sulphate crystals become larger (hard sulphate) and resistant to being dissolved during charging, this then makes that part of the cell inactive. For a vehicle where shorter runs are common, occasional full recharges from an external smart charger will, in most cases, help extend the life of the battery by more fully dissolving the lead sulphate crystals before they grow to a size where they become insoluble.

Not a new issue either - My MY16 Octavia had both the battery and alternator replaced in the first year under warranty. The replacement Moll EFB has lasted well since then.

That sounds like an over sensitive traction control issue - but you imply there's no indication on the instrument cluster for that?

I use a Topdon battery tester and it appears to give a reasonable indication of my 10-year old EFB. I'm not convinced that VAG Smart Alternator strategy (75-80% max charge) is the ideal for best battery life on the majority of vehicles, particularly ones doing regular short trips. I like the idea of intelligent charging limiting the alternator to 75% SOC for longer runs, using regenerative to top up the remaining capacity, but my ideal would be for the charging algorithm to modify its program when logging regular short trips so that the battery is kept as close to 100% as possible.

@Nmh Did you get this fault resolved?

Hello, welcome to the forum. It sounds to me that you have an airlock in the coolant system. I'd suggest you check for any coolant bleeding procedure and try that.

Aren't skips usually painted yellow?

A DTC scan will identify which wheel if ABS sensor is causing the issue.

I'd be more than surprised if limp mode was activated without a DTC being generated! What fault light displays on the instrument cluster when this happens? What equipment are they using to check?

I'm rather surprised your 2015 Octavia has the battery SOC indication available, is yours early or late 2015? My 2015, MY16 just displays SOC--- and I understood the function was deleted around 2014.

Love the way the MG's parked - not!

A brief search on the net suggests the 3.6 EA390 engine is a particularly good one, with only a couple of known issues - early ignition coils and crank seal oil leaks on high milers. Said to be good for 400 K km. How is the suspension and gearshift?

Welcome to the forum, The rust along the top of the windshield looks very minor, probably from paint being polished away from roof edge - probably not too difficult to address reasonably. Not familiar at all with the 3.6 engine, but I'd think it would be good for another 100k Km at least, very common these days for smaller engines to do that sort of mileage - how does the asking price compare with similar vehicles?

A 'Stop-Start battery IS the main battery - it is simply an improved design and materials over standard, lead-acid batteries to allow for the added stresses of repeated start cycles. There are two types of stop-start batteries - EFB or AGM - yours is more likely to be EFB, but check first.

Not a lot of contact area there, try onto the body of the cable ferule, where the insulation meets the socket. Is the stamped part of the L-shaped metal bracket painted? If not, use that.

Take a search cruise through the forum, I'm sure I've seen some posts on removal of tailgate lining panel. I have a slight recollection that it requires good trim removal tools and a fair bit of force! - the C-pillar trims are bad enough, and I chickened-out with the A-pillar ones!

Check that the rubber seals aren't sticking to the hatch - my Mk3 trunk sometimes sticks shut in hot weather, when it does this, it feels like it hasn't unlocked but a heaver pull breaks the seal. Try a rubber seal conditioner like Gummi Pflege (cannot swear on spelling for second word) Other seal conditioners are available.

^^^ With genuine, all-weather 300+ mile range.

On some vehicles, it can be quite frightening to feel just much more foot pressure is required if the brake servo fails. Part of the problem is your leg muscles become totally accustomed to the assistance provided. It can be very educational to do a test somewhere totally safe and at low speed, switch off the engine, deplete the reserve vacuum, then try to stop!

Fix the Lambda issue first, then investigate further for the coolant loss.

According to Rosstech Wiki, P0030 indicates a problem with the Lambda sensor - Open circuit Bank 1, Sensor 1. This will certainly cause fuelling issues - but I'd expect the ECU would overfuel, which would cause black smoke! The cause of that DTC could be something as simple as a broken wire at the sensor connection. I'd stick with your white smoke being coolant getting burnt.

If I recall correctly, white smoke from a diesel indicates burnt coolant - although I'd expect more than 0.5 litres being used if the smoke is as heavy as you indicate. Have the coolant tested for combustion products and locate source of loss. Was the engine losing coolant before the turbo was replaced? If not, possible that your garage has created a leak in its cooling circuit and then repeated mistake. Did the turbo replacement fix the oil use issue?