Warrior193

In that circumstance, I'd say you have a good chance of a warranty claim - but it will almost certainly require an independent engineers inspection and report. Where is the vehicle now?

But where should those oil icons appear? If this is what VAG call an advance, I cannot say I'm a fan - it seems nonsensical to me that systems like TPMS, EPC and Traction control go through a visible self check to confirm they are operational before start - while the oil monitoring system does not! How reliable is a critical engine system that never shows any indication during initial start-up checks!

Do you mean the Maxi Dot MFD?

1 litre petrol will be TSI in the Octavia 3. It could be that the brake pad anti-squeal shims are sticky - not really an issue apart from being annoying. Do you get any apparent false alarms from the tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS)?

2015 Octavia 3 Kombi 1.4TSI 150, CZDA. MY16. For no particular reason I started wondering why Skoda (and presumably rest of VAG) do not have a self-check for the oil pressure during ignition switch on. I checked my instrument cluster and there does not actually appear to be a dedicated indicator (Oil can icon) anywhere in the cluster! Clockwise from around 7o'clock, my cluster has these icons at switch on - Airbag (amber) Seatbelt (red) TPMS (amber) Steering PAS (red) EPC (amber) MIL 'check engine' (amber) Traction control (amber) ABS (amber) Brakes (red) Traction control off (amber) There appear to be no gaps in the above icons for an oil pressure one - three questions - Should there be an 'oil can' icon somewhere in the cluster? Should it light up during the instrument self check? If there isn't a dedicated icon for the oil pressure system, which indicator will light up if oil pressure is lost - is it the MIL?

At 1 litre, I assume you have a TSI - is that correct? Hello Rob, fuel gauges can often tend to be fairly non-linear, especially from 50% mark down - the best way to monitor fuel use is to fill tank completely (to 1st click of fuel nozzle), note the mileage, then repeat after, say, 100/200 miles. Did the engine performance appear to be significantly affected during this 'high fuel use'? Light to moderate scoring of the brake discs is not especially a problem, as long as they do not have excessive runout - 'squeaking' from the rear discs may simply be because they don't provide much of the total braking effort and tend to rust a fair bit - try applying the hand-brake a few times while moving to see if that cleans them up - or try a few harder stops (somewhere safe) if the squeak is from the front discs.

Hello Rob, welcome to the forum. Can you post your engine type and fuel? - your engine type is the 3 or 4 letter prefix of your engine number, listed on your V5 document. What are the problems you are looking for answers to?

How soon after the clutch was replaced did it start to show signs of slippage again?

Valves, head or gasket issue - head removal needed in all cases.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Not completely impossible to destroy a new clutch in 8 weeks - but would almost certainly be due to damage or incorrect fitting during replacement. If your garage refuse warranty replacement, insist on having an independent inspection done.

As the Field Measures service campaign was issued before your warranty expired, I'd think you have a good case for this work to be non-chargeable.

Coolant air locks can be very persistent, I'd strongly suggest trying a drain and vacuum refill at the very least. I understand there is also a VCDS bleeding procedure that can be used.

All you want is sufficient to provide a temporary seal around the piston rings - say one or two squirts of an old-style oil can per cylinder. Too much oil in a cylinder will give misleading readings, and in worst case, could result in hydro-locking cylinder.

If your engine is consuming such large quantities of oil as to require topping-up every time you refuel, why not consider carrying a couple of litres of the correct spec oil in your car? - clearly would be much cheaper and always available.

Why on earth would you even consider using 'Illegal' oil? Correct specification oil, with timely changes, is literally the life blood of an engine.

The issue with wet belts appears solely to be in relation to cam belts, E.g. Ford Eco-Boom - I've not seen any reports of issues with wet oil pump belts.

Good morning John, welcome to the forum. Very unlikely that your battery will be testing as 'good' if it wasn't fully recharged after being discharged - so I'd treat halfrauds test with caution, but admittedly strange that they wouldn't want to sell you a new battery! It is possible that a diode in the bridge rectifier has failed - this could cause the battery to discharge while standing - I'd suggest having the alternator fully tested to rule out any fault there.

Hello, welcome to the forum. What were the DTCs (error codes) recorded? Did the MIL sometimes light up as well as the EPC?

@Tonyduncan have you managed to get this resolved yet?

I believe that the LED lights are capable of detecting correct side to dip - should be automatic (through GPS), but there may also be a manual setting in the Infotainment system.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest extreme caution - from other posts I've seen, you will run into issues if the aftermarket bar isn't coded into the vehicle.

@Shebby , did you get this resolved?

There may be a physical switch for the internal alarm sensors at the base of the B-pillar. Otherwise, locking the vehicle by pressing the 'lock' button on the fob twice in quick succession leaves the vehicle locked but with deadlocks and alarm deactivated.

Bit of an odd one - only aware of two oil service schedules, fixed (annual) and variable (up to 2 years/or xx km) Have you tried the reset procedure a second time? There are two service schedules though - Inspection Oil service These require separate resets and can sometimes be a bit fiddly to get the correct schedule reset.

I'd suggest that you have your new battery tested - then have the flagged ABS wheel sensors checked.