Warrior193

Hello, from your device number, I believe you actually have a Amundsen MIB2.

Great, thanks for that - good news that the overpressure issue was due only to poor coolant circulation.

Still a bad idea to leave an engine idling for a full hour while stationary in traffic. One of my cousins got trapped once in heavy drifting snow on Desert Road - was stuck for more than 12 hours! Resorted to firing-up engine every 10-15 mins to provide a little heat.

Personally I'd have shut it down way before then - but it was the au pair driving it at the time. Symptoms appear to indicate something happened after initial overheat, but have not seen any report of suggested combustion products test yet

Hello@Jimbo78aus have you solved your problem yet?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Check the underside, it's possible that it's similar to the Mk3 engine air filter box - with securing screws from the bottom!

And there was me thinking that all the bu**ars were biters!

If you could just post any DTCs listed for the ABS system, it would be a start.

From the image, I doubt If that odd injector would even fit! Something more than a bit odd going on there, it doesn't even look the correct length to reach into the cylinder! If the cover is plastic, I'd try something like a plastic welding stick - or possibly an epoxy filler if the area is not required to be flexible.

I'd suggest trying to repair the hole if it's the one I see near the edge of the opening. That 4th injector doesn't look right - are you certain it came from your engine?

I think the lamp monitoring system is looking for a change in current in each circuit - I suspect a significant increase or decrease in any monitored circuit will trigger the warning.

The remote fobs use a rolling code which is different each time it is used, what is most likely to have happened is that your unused fob is generating codes outside the range the vehicle is expecting to see. A search of the forum should give you the correct procedure to resynch your fobs.

Under normal driving conditions the alternator will only charge the battery to around 75-80% - leaving headspace for regenerative charging during braking/overrun. Strongly recommend adaptation (coding) of the new battery to the BMS.

What material is the rocker cover made of? how big is the hole in it?

...But wouldn't there need to be a coding adaptation to inform the light monitoring system?

Do you actually need physical access to the phone screen while driving? Does your car not have MFSW - and navigation on the infotainment screen?

But OP was asking if code required for infotainment when disconnecting battery to change it - not about replacing radio.

My understanding is that there is no code for the user to input - the MIB infotainment system is protection coded to the vehicle using non-volatile memory. The only thing that may be lost when disconnecting the battery is radio station pre-sets.

As the commutator uses sliprings, it's little difficult for me to see how the alternator can be generating such interference while appearing to output correctly - Is there a smoothing capacitor anywhere in the alternator circuitry?

With the engine running, what voltage are you seeing at the battery terminals?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd go with your first suspicion of the battery sensor being faulty - minus 40 degrees clearly looks wrong and I cannot see an alternator fault causing that. Try replacing that first, likely not expensive and an easy DIY.

Quite interesting that the cam sprocket appears to have failed at the drilled hole - does that hole correspond to any locking device?

Thanks, was there any significant damage to the pistons?

Presume the DSG is a wet clutch - Is there going to be a manual version?

That would appear to be unusually incompetent - even for a Stealer!