Warrior193

I'd be more than a little sceptical about that claim, it goes directly against what I have read on other posts on ACC vehicle windscreen replacements.

I recall seeing mention of the requirement to change the clockspring - I'll flag this up for @ApertureS to see.

I would be praying that any missing parts haven't managed to find their way into the engine.

Do you mean unlock with the emergency lock?

It is probably not necessary to do that if the spare key has been accepted to unlock the car, I'd have thought the rolling code would have updated on unlocking.

Yes, I believe that this is the recommended practice.

My understanding is that the keyfob sends a rolling code signal - meaning that a different code is sent each time the vehicle is unlocked. AFAIK, the receiver has a list of expected codes to recognise - or anticipate in subsequent code sequences, which change every time the RX & TX communicate. It is apparently possible for the transmitter and receiver codes to become mis-matched if the transmitter sends more than a certain number of codes while not in range of the receiver.

The reason for your battery failing when you left the door open, interior lights off, will be because the various electronic modules etc. were prevented from going into 'sleep mode' - the resultant current draw is much higher then.

@beneix I can see your point if, in fact, the 12 volt battery is not (or rarely) used for actually starting the ICE. Is this actually the case? There is possibly still an argument for using at least an EFB for the longer inherent lifespan.

In answer to the question does the alternator generate the energy? - no, it doesn't directly - it acts to reverse the chemical reaction the battery cells undergo on discharge. The chemical composition of the cell plates is changed between charged and discharged state.

But to get back on topic, the OPs battery is very likely to lose up to 25% of initial charge, purely from self-discharge over four months - add to that the quiescent load to the various electronic modules (quite possibly the same) and bearing in mind the battery probably only being 75-80% charged, maximum, (due to the smart alternator control) at the start of the layup, it is conceivable that the SOC could drop to around 30%, even with a battery in perfect condition. Lead acid battery lifespan can be significantly reduced if kept at a low state of charge.

The chemical reaction occurs in the engine, the fuel tank simply stores the potential energy.

Allow me a little semantics - but all secondary batteries (including lead-acid) don't really 'store' energy as such - they generate energy by a reversable chemical reaction. These types of battery will all exhibit a degree of self-discharge, even on open circuit, in addition to any quiescent connected load.

My 8 year old Moll EFB still testing at 80% - despite stop/start always being used would suggest that this function does not give the battery a 'beating' An idling engine produces emissions - for zero MPG.

Crumbs, who'd have believed it? Glad the boy wasn't hurt.

There is the option of charging through the 12 volt socket, with a suitable adaptor, if unable to open the hood for access to the battery.

I have ramps similar to the red (angle iron) ones - but without the jack-pads. To prevent the front splitter hitting the ramp, I made up a couple of blocks from decking planks to reduce the angle as you get onto the bottom of the ramp. Works for the rear (combi) too.

Good morning Simon, connection order of charger clamps is not important - but ensure negative clamp is to the flat tag on the firewall bulkhead - not the battery terminal, make sure the connection is good by scraping the clamp against the tag a little. Absolutely no harm in starting the engine, rather than pushing, to move the vehicle back a bit. Agreed, the positioning of the hood release on RHD vehicles is a serious fail by VAG.

Not sure I understand - is that the available cranking Amps? If so battery is down more than 25%. What was the state of charge during that test result? Battery condition state may be recoverable, but I'd strongly suggest that could be cause of your fault indications. The battery voltage will be dropping to very low levels when cranking the engine, the onboard computers can throw double 6s when that happens. Are you able to give the manufacture date of the battery - usually a 4-digit code stamped on the top of the negative terminal.

Bought my replacement set in March this year. Take a look at Car Mat Co - Custom fit, 4 x colours in carpet, 1 in rubber. I got the black carpet with grey trim.

I recently got a new set (front and rear) from Amazon for my Octavia - very reasonable price and seem to be good quality. Will look up supplier soon.

Definitely CAN be caused by a failing battery. Just how bad was the battery condition test report?

Hello Simon, I hope you are recovering well from your operation. 4 months sitting idle not ideal for battery life, especially as temperatures are dropping. Are you able to borrow a charger from anywhere? Otherwise, worth considering purchasing a reasonable smart charger - occasional use of one can usefully extend battery life.

The battery is the first thing to check when getting seemingly random fault warnings on these vehicles. You should get the battery tested. Does stop/start work?

I'm certain that the Bolero does not support Navigation - that SD card is for the MIB2 Amundsen.