Warrior193

Probably unnecessary to replace the hydraulic valve lifters, as @Paws4Thot suggests, the noisy lifters may purely be due to neglected oil servicing. They will possibly be fine once the oil is changed.

The RH probe looks contaminated or damaged - try gently running a screwdriver down the flutes to see which. That is very likely to be the cause of your intermittent issue. If cleaning the probes does not work, it is a very easy DIY job to replace the EV tank. The probe connector looks OK to me.

I guess that Elon will be on to Wrigleys for an improved grade of gum to stick his Cybertrucks together.

That would suggest that the reader you are using is not completely compatible with your vehicle. The EPC light is on and something is apparently triggering the engine into limp mode, there will definitely be a DTC logged on the ECU.

Unless there is an LSD fitted, which appears to be unlikely on a Yeti, all drive will go to the unloaded driveshaft. To test the differential, you will need to apply an equal load to both front driveshafts when you turn the input shaft.

I'm inclined to doubt their mechanical aptitude if their drafting skills are any example!

Apart from the towbar not retracting, were the warnings being activated before it went in for repair? If not, they broke the connection socket in their attempt to fix it - and they would be responsible for repair to connector.

Take a look at the NZTA portal, sect. 11-2, paragraph 2. Unless the vehicle has had (and passed) an emissions test since having the DPF removed, it seems that it will fail a WOF test.

I see that your charge regulator has a voltage adjustment button, does this allow adjustment of the output voltage? If so, I'd suggest that you need to adjust the regulator output to at least 12.5 - 13.0 volts to allow battery charging.

Good morning Liam, tena koutou, welcome to the forum. It will really depend on NZ WOF requirements, the DPF serves to remove diesel particulates from the exhaust, but can result in issues with regenerations if the vehicle regularly does short runs. After a number of failed regens, the DPF can eventually become blocked, requiring expensive replacement - in the UK, DPF removal (if detected) would be a failure when the vehicle was in for its annual MOT test.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Quite possible that the voltage output from the PV regulator ('conditioner') is shut down when not connected to a load - in this case, your battery. 12.2 volts is likely to be insufficient to charge your battery anyway - what voltage are you seeing at the battery terminals while it is disconnected?

Hi Rob, what is the location of those shots?

Great news -that'll be 'fill UNleaded' of course.

Your Kenwood infotainment system would be a retrofit instead of being original factory fit. You will need to research a Kenwood site.

Strongly suggest contacting a mobile misfuelling specialist first, almost certain to cost less than a Stealer.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your mishap. No more damage will occur so long as the engine is not run or attempt made to start. How much diesel was added - was it a full tank? Possibly your best (and cheapest) option is to find a mobile misfuelling specialist to drain your tank and flush the fuel system. Do you have home breakdown cover on your insurance? Misfuelling cover may be included in this. Diesel in a petrol vehicle is likely to have caused no lasting problem once the system is cleared.

Assuming that this warning light query refers to the coolant level, not overtemperature, as temperature gauge is reported as staying 'at 90' - I'd suggest this intermittent fault points towards faulty coolant level sensor probes in the expansion tank. First check sensor wiring connection, then try gently scraping the probes inside the EV tank with a screwdriver. This fault has been reported previously by others. Suggest simple and cheap replacement of EV tank will probably fix, can even be DIY.

The OP reported that even with the brake pedal pushed all the way to the floor, the brakes are not fully applied - this is a serious fault requiring urgent repair - and quite different from any lack of feed-back or 'feel'

You clearly have a fault with your brakes, please, for the safety of yourself and other road users, have the brakes urgently checked by a competent mechanic.

Thanks for posting the update - serves to stress how important correct adaptation is when replacing the battery.

Doing what you suggest will definitely cause Canbus errors - failed light warnings, etc. You need the correct wiring kit.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Your fault is most likely to be an issue with the alternator - or the wiring connections to it. Was the engine running when you disconnected the battery to replace it?

Very difficult to read that image, even when enlarged - is that DTC prefix letter 'W' ?

@coalminer was the taken to the Dealership for any other reason than the 12volt charging issue?

I'd recommend asking an independent specialist for a price for the coolant drain/refill.