Warrior193

Good afternoon CM. Most likely the original coolant has simply become diluted over time - has it ever been just topped up with plain water? Probably due for a coolant change anyway.

Pete was referring to the alternator charge management levels while driving.

Hello, welcome to the forum. At 2017, your Yeti would have smart alternator and automatic idle stop (Stop/Start) - does that operate correctly - do you normally use it? At 12.6 volts, your battery is approx. 85% charged - which is a little above the level that the smart alternator limits its output to allow for energy recuperation. Try leaving the headlights on for about 10 minutes with the engine off, then check the battery terminal voltage with the engine idling. It is possible that the voltage sensor wire to the alternator has a bad connection - this appears to be relatively common problem reported on the forum.

Good morning John, is this Fabia a TSI? DSG or manual?

Despite the modern ICE being much more complicated than the old carb and points system, consideration should be given to the fact that the modern engine is cleaner, more economical and more powerful than in the past. Not a lot of consolation, but many of the problems with the modern ICE will be from the myriad of sensors required for it to run correctly. P.S. My wife's Fabia (1.0TSI 110PS) currently has a very similar problem - apart from the rough running - DTC code thrown is P003A. A reliable OBD11 code reader is very affordable and perhaps should be considered to be an essential accessory nowadays.

All transient fault lights triggered by battery removal and replacement should clear themselves after a short drive and turning steering wheel lock to lock.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is your present battery AGM - or EFB? You should replace with at least an EFB battery - which will be less expensive than AGM (if that is what's currently fitted) - a standard lead-acid battery would probably not survive for long. Adaptation of the BEM (coding) for the new battery should still be done,

Update 2. Garage could find no obvious cause of fault after diagnostic check, car remained fault free for 3 weeks since the check - until yesterday - EPC lit up again while wife was returning home. I plugged OBD11 reader in - no DTCs recorded, EPC extinguished when engine started. I took it out for test, EPC and MIL lit up and engine appeared to go into limp mode as soon as I accelerated onto A3. DTC P003A again! Question, wife needs to use car before the garage can take another look - should I leave DTC logged so mechanic can see that the fault was definitely recorded - or should I clear the fault before she drives it again?

...or at least get battery charged and tested.

Yes, the CV joints, you mentioning that at least one of the gaiters is split and leaking rings an alarm - this could very easily allow wear and damage to the joint. The 'shimmy' you mention could be from dynamic imbalance of the drive shaft if the coupling is badly worn.

Get the driveshafts, couplings and wheel bearings checked.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You've not given much information here - and do not recognise model 'luna' but if the wipers are working on one side only, the fault will be a mechanical one in the wiper drive-train, between the two wiper spindles.

Late reply to OP - but displayed 'one fault found 10763' P1734 would be an obvious start point to check. Also recall that failing crankshaft position sensor can often be cause of difficult, or failed start - the TDI can also be very sensitive to slow cranking speed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Interesting, was the battery tested before being replaced? - If so, do you remember what the test showed?

All those faults strongly suggest a failing battery or faulty ABS sensor.

If that voltage was read in correct manner, at 11.94 volts the battery is less than 40% charged! Strongly suggest getting battery tested and check alternator operation.

...or try it in Eco mode for a while and see what that does.

That rather sounds like it's stuck in Sport mode - even though the mode is not selected. Try selecting Sport mode, then switching back to Normal or Eco after a while.

How much later (I.e. higher revs) is the DSG shifting up gears? Stop/Start consistently being inhibited could explain approx. 2 to 3% higher fuel use, depending on length of stops.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unlikely to require ADAS calibration if only having a wheel alignment done. SWMBOs Fabia recently had both front lower suspension arms replaced (MOT - failing bushes) and subsequent wheel alignment - with no affect on ADAS.

Hello, welcome to the forum. 'Power Consumption is High' message refers to battery state of charge (SOC) and is one of the parameters that inhibits Automatic Idle Stop (Stop/Start) This message can mean either there is presently a high electrical load (A/C, etc.) or the battery is possibly starting to fail. Unlikely to be cause of early DSG changes, but failing battery can cause quite a few false warnings on the dash. Have you accidently switched engine mode to sport?

Suggest checking the rear hubs for excessive heating after a run.

The ESC programme will almost certainly use braking effort, but I wouldn't think it would be on the rear brakes only.

The 60/40 braking bias will actually be to the FRONT - NOT the rear!

Redex was once a product recommended to free gummed-up piston rings - not sure that this is the issue here though, at least one of the issues with EA888 engines was unsuitable oil control rings - but I thought that particular issue had been addressed with the Gen. 3.