Warrior193

Pretty sure the Mk3 Fabia power steering is electrically assisted only - no hydraulic operation. To confirm, Google the specifications for your vehicle.

The slipring you say was darker than the other possibly indicates that the associated brush was not making proper contact - there does look to be a considerable amount of wear on both sliprings too. I'd suggest that the old carbon brushes are unserviceable.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm pretty sure these infotainment systems are coded to the vehicle - assuming the replacement unit is functional, I believe that at the very least you will need to get this done.

Assumption is for full synthetic oil - American sites are saying ideal oil temperature for TSI's is in the range 110 to 127 C. Over 102 C is great for eliminating any combustion waste products from the oil. I haven't done the conversion from F - but references suggest fully synth oil doesn't start to break-down until well north of 250 F

Hello Tony, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your wife. Did you have to sign a non-disclosure agreement with The Company? 😇

DSG problems can be an issue, particularly in regards to correct servicing, depending on type fitted.

Suggest looking at condition of RH strut damper first. To your knowledge, is this vehicle still at stock ride height? Bump-steer is a normally unavoidable consequence of changes in steering geometry during suspension travel and is not always an undesirable factor - provided it is uniform and predictable.

Although the current tyres fitted may not be ideal, it is highly improbable that matching tyres, whatever the make, will cause the OP's issue with bump-steer in one direction only.

You're ok - G11 is compatible with G13 and G12++. Get engine refilled with G13 or G12++ / G12evo once the leak is fixed. Be aware that the system should really be vacuum-filled with the new coolant to avoid issues with airlocks.

Hi, I think you will be ok with what you've used so far. Wait one and I'll check compatibility and come back.

One problem with that without access to a test track, will be willingness to take it to speeds where this becomes an issue.

One thing to check - is it possible that the LH transit block is still in place? Bump-steer in RH direction only could suggest more suspension movement on the affected side.

Does this 'diving to right' behaviour while travelling at speed present itself all the time - or in curves only? if only in curves, is it only in right curves, I.e. bump oversteer?

Ditch the bag - or replace the expansion vessel for one without it if your present unit has one. There apparently are some later expansion vessels containing a more robust (plastic, tubular) silicate dispenser, but I'd suggest going without the 'teabag' type.

The coolant service life is reported to be shorter without the silicate dispenser, I have just had the coolant changed in the Octavia, after replacing the 'Mit Silicat' expansion tank for one without it 4 years ago.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I would recommend getting it done by an independent garage who have the correct equipment. You might be lucky and not have too many issues with airlocks by doing it yourself - but there is some risk that you will. Are you changing the coolant because you have removed the silicate bag from the expansion tank?

How big a mortgage do you have to take for a bottle of Scotch nowadays? I can still remember some of your Countrymen visiting Moscow just for the Vodka when I was on a trip there in the 80's

One thing that might be getting overlooked with predominantly low mileage running is the likelihood of plate hard sulphation as a result of persistently lower charge state (<75% SOC) In this instance, a good case for the occasional maintenance charge to 100% with a suitable charger.

Good morning Jatra, welcome to the forum. From your comment about converting to multifuel, I'm guessing petrol is horribly expensive there?

Check that the battery post connections are clean and correctly tightened.

Have you tried a search on the forum? I'd guess that all models use a similar alarm unit - from what I've read, the unit is sealed and the self-contained battery is soldered onto the PCB. It appears that the alarm unit is not intended to be a serviceable item. Replacing the battery appears to require cutting open the unit, and de-soldering the old battery - but there is a possibility that the PCB suffers damage if the battery electrolyte leaks.

Unless familiar with the process, probably best left to a mechanic. Battery needs to be in reasonable state of charge to ensure sufficient cranking speed. Remove spark plugs, attach cylinder compression test meter, crank engine over to establish engine compression, note reading and repeat for each cylinder. This gives you the dry compression readings. Repeat the process, after injecting a small quantity of lube oil into each cylinder before compression test. Resultant figures should be within specification, each cylinder reading should be reasonably similar (IIRC, within approx. 10% low to high) - marked differences between 'dry' and 'wet' figures indicates issue with piston rings.

Oops, apologies for translocating you. A little better than here - E10 (95 oct) cost me £1.47 a litre yesterday fuelling SWMBOs Fabia for her upcoming trip to Skomer to photograph the Puffins.

Hi cobber, welcome to the forum. What do the Pump Bandits rush you for a litre of diesel in SA?

Quite possible that the recent oil change was slightly short of a complete fill.