Warrior193

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you confirm your infotainment system, is it Amundsen MIB1? Are you sure that your sat nav is working without the SD card? Are you able to actually able to use it to navigate to a particular point - or is it simply displaying a general area map of the vehicles current position?

Looking at the image posted, the yellow caps stay in place - you will need a correct hex. key (allen key) to adjust - I'd suggest a 'T' handled one for this.

I believe it is driven by a separate belt.

I think you misunderstood - I mean connect the meter probes (DC volts setting) on the battery terminal and read the lowest voltage while the starter is cranking. If battery voltage falls below 10 volts, battery is either discharged or dead.

A load test on the battery would have been a good way to check - that could have been done with the Fluke connected to the battery terminals while someone operated the starter. Very likely that the battery had died though.

I'm not sure, but is 'foreign body in tyre' not an MOT failure?

Every time I have had this, (my winters, in particular are screw magnets) the tyre always deflated very quickly when I removed it. In my multiple cases, the tyre had sealed to a certain extent around the object while it was in place - where I was losing about 0.5 bar over 3 to 4 days. Provided the puncture is far enough away from the sidewall, a tubeless tyre repair is permissible.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I was not aware that there was a M5 version. My M6 gearbox is silent in all gears. If the noise is noticeable while driving, I'd suggest that a bearing was in the process of failing - or a gear tooth is chipped.

Very unlikely for any need for 50% mix in those circumstances - but I've known gearbox class Kart racers in the past who've used stronger concentrations in liquid-cooled rigs - so that they don't blow their coolant all over the track when they overheat.

I think that you are looking at this the wrong way - the function of the coolant (together with the lubricating oil) is to transfer excess heat away from engine components and prevent them from overheating. A 50% glycol mix has approximately 20% lower ability (specific heat) to transfer heat away from those components. Yes the engine may be less efficient for a short period until it reaches normal operating temperature, but the way to achieve this sooner is to restrict coolant (thermostats) and/or air flow (shutters) - not by reducing the specific heat properties of the coolant.

My understanding is that the reduction of heat transfer is significant as glycol concentration increases - but the requirements to raise the coolant boiling point, along with corrosion inhibition and anti-freeze protection also need to be considered.

I think it is a little unrealistic to expect an engine to consume no lube oil at all. Providing oil consumption does not exceed specifications, there should be no concern for a small quantity to be used between service periods. There was even a time where Rolls Royce would recall cars for engine rework if they were found to be not using the correct quantity of oil.

Hello Peter, welcome to the forum. I believe your engine family is EA189, can you confirm? Is there anything in the service history for cam belt tensioner replacement? Get the tensioner checked - there is a history on this engine for failure of it. There are also a number of recent reports for TDIs failing to start due to low cranking speed - is the battery good?

My suggestion works well with the Octavia and the common, flat type of double-insulated cable usually found on low wattage appliances.

If you feed the mains supply cable into the engine compartment beneath the edge of the LH headlight trim panel, you will find you can fully close the hood with the charger in place.

From memory, all information required (ET, PCD and wheel section) is there in the inside of the rim of all original VAG wheels.

Hello Brazil, welcome to the forum. Very likely to be identical, but a later revision. To confirm, ask the seller if they can post an image of the information embossed on the inner face of the wheel (underside)

Were the front wheels spinning while the video was taken?

Strongly recommend.

Possibly suggest checking the throttle body setting - you will need to get someone to get readings from the OBD data port.

There is a register of members who are prepared to assist with VCDS coding - usually for 'beer tokens' Search for VCDS map. If you normally switch off stop start every time you drive, the 'smart charging' energy recuperation system will still be active - this limits battery charging to around 75% to allow capacity for regenerative charging. Even if the replacement is identical spec. to original, battery adaptation is recommended to let the BCM know that any faults that may have been causing the smart charging system to limit alternator output have now been removed and the system can revert to manufacturers settings.

@beezera10 Most likely your original battery was EFB if your car has automatic stop-start - if so, strongly recommend getting any replacement battery adapted (coded) into your vehicles system via VCDS.

If necessary, cut a semi-circular recess into the foam for the gas strut - but probably not required.

Or perhaps suggest they provide a full, free 1st service in compensation for you performing part of the dealers PDI.

They are to help form a seal between the engine compartment and the cabin air intake grille just in front of the wiper arms.