Warrior193

If your starter battery is original, it's very possible that it is failing. Get it fully charged, then tested - preferably with a high discharge load-test.

Was that 'grinding' noise as you changed gear - especially on downshift - or all the time?

I think you will find the 1.4TSI gives you more than enough power - I normally prefer manual box, but have driven a Canadian 1.4 Passat with the Aisin 8-speed and I liked it.

Breezy Pete advised in your other post which cable you need to disconnect - there was a specific note in your installation instructions to NOT connect the reverse sensor cable if there was no reverse camera fitted.

Hi, from the instructions you post I believe they are saying do not connect the pink cable to anything - "wrap the pink wire separately" probably means insulate and leave it disconnected.

Has the dealer offered a loan vehicle while these issues are being rectified?

Hello Sam, welcome to the forum. Hmmm, a rare case of dealer speak with forked tongue! Was the brake shudder noticeable on the test drive - if so, what did the sales rep. say about it? Is there any unusual associated noise when braking? Is there a ABS fault indicator light lit on the panel?

Hello Ken, are you sure that the battery is ok?

Hello Ken, is your battery discharged - or is there some fault with the ignition switch?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Skoda discontinued the battery status (SOC) indicator some time before model year 16 (October 2015) The suspicion is that this was due to complaints about the 'smart' alternator only allowing battery to charge to approx. 75%.

Hello Lily, welcome to the forum. The car can be fitted with either EFB or AGM battery, either type is correct - AGM is better, but considerably more expensive. Given the advice you have been given by your garage so far, it sounds very possible that the replacement battery has not been correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicle when it was fitted - this should be checked/confirmed asap.

That should not be an issue - especially if your replacement is another EFB. Make sure you do get it adapted correctly asap though.

In your original post you said that your hazard lights were permanently on - I'm now confused as to how your fault is actually manifesting itself.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd start by making a careful check of the hazard light switch operation - possibly stuck in 'on' position.

The only time I would consider an engine oil flush might be necessary would be if service intervals had been severely neglected - or the oil had become contaminated in some way - and would use normal lubricating oil for the purpose.

AGM life and performance is superior to EFB, but will cost more. You will definitely need to get adaptation done if changing battery type to AGM - even if the replacement battery is exactly the same as original, you should still get the adaptation done, as it is probable that the smart alternator control unit settings will have altered to cope with any battery errors detected. Not all battery suppliers have the equipment (or are even aware of the need) to do the adaptation - ensure that you ask - walk away if they say it's not necessary.

Good morning, that is probably the original battery and it is most likely that it has failed. Prior to this failure, was the idle stop-start working as normal? Replacement battery will require adaptation (coding) - this really should be done even if replacement is exactly same spec and chemistry type as original. You will require EFB battery as a minimum.

I'd expect that any business performing this type of work would be legally compelled to have public liability insurance to cover customers property in their care.

Welcome to the forum. You say no warning lights on dash - but could it have been the front assist (AEB) kicking in momentarily?

I cannot see any acceptable reason for a regularly serviced engine, in good condition and using the correct oil to do this.

I'd suspect that the bracket had been damaged some time previously (perhaps by someone 'nudging' the grill by reversing into it) - but the radar sensor had remained in position until eventually moving through vibration, road shock.

In your OP you wrote 'full service history' do you have the record for when the engine oil was last changed - and by whom?

Suggest to investigating technician that oil sample be analysed.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Do you know if that battery has a cooling fan - could it be that?

Have you had to top up engine coolant at all?